Rhyan Craft: Now BRINE CRAFT

*****This section is for Full Boat Projects Only*****
User avatar
RStewart
Posts: 695
Joined: 17 Mar 2008, 08:31
12
Location: norman,ok

Rhyan Craft

Post by RStewart »

Dang. I was just in the Atlanta area yesterday. What year and make is your 15hp motor?
14ft Richline semi v

Sinner by birth...Saved by the Grace of GOD!!!

User avatar
Brine
Moderator
Posts: 3236
Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
11
Location: GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by Brine »

stew6371 wrote:Dang. I was just in the Atlanta area yesterday. What year and make is your 15hp motor?
Gamefisher. 1980 - something. If you are interested, I'll look it up.

User avatar
Brine
Moderator
Posts: 3236
Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
11
Location: GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by Brine »

Got a chance to take some more pics, and have a several questions for you all.

As I mentioned before, I removed the steering console. Here is a different pic in case this makes someone wants it. :shock:
Image

First Question: What's the best product/process to fill holes like this in the gunwale. These are from where the steering column was riveted to the boat.
Image

Second Question: What would you do with the transom. The board isn't really soft anywhere, but it isn't like new either. Also, the cosmetics of it are making me twitch. Don't think Picasso could touch this one up. What am I in for in trying to replace this board? Good Idea? Bad Idea?
Image
Image
Image

Third Question: This is apparently homemade reinforcement for the 50hp that was on the back. I will never have more than a 9.9 on this boat. Should I cut it out, or leave it? Again, the cosmetics are annoying me.
Image
Image

Fourth Question: There is a crack at the top of the transom on the right side in this picture, hence the homemade reinforcements above I suspect. Suggestions on repair? No, I don't weld. All of these screws attaching to the plywood on the inside are really what is scaring me from messing with replacing the transom. Justified?
Image

Apparently, this piece of angle iron was set on the transom when the big motor was on it.
Image

Also, here are a few pics of the bow deck and how it was engineered.
Image

Hatch open showing support from underneath.
Image

Lastly, here is a pic for all of you who are contemplating plywood decks. Not sure how old the boat is yet, but it was kept under an aluminum roof with open walls. I'm not saying plywood isn't the right solution for any of you, I just wanted to point out what can potentially happen with it, because I've seen it mentioned here numerous times without any pics.
Image

ALL RIGHT GUYS.....HELP ME REBUILD THIS THING!
Thanks in Advance for the Advice.
Brine

User avatar
russ010
Posts: 4122
Joined: 29 Jul 2008, 20:56
11
Location: Roswell, GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by russ010 »

Brine... here are a few things you could do to in reference to your questions...

1 - you can use some of that epoxy that comes in small tubes that you roll around your fingers then put on whatever you want to mend/put back together/fill holes... whatever. I've got some that is made especially for aluminum.. once it's cured, you can sand over and paint it.

Here's a link to what I'm talking about - https://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/produ ... a_7c252704.

2 - If you are going to redo the rest of your boat, you might as well do your transom too... go ahead and take care of everything at one time. If you are planning on painting the boat, then you can take all those screws out and fill them in with the stuff from #1, then sand it and paint over. But if it's really bothering you and the wood doesn't seem that bad, then get you a good deck stain/paint and go over the transom with that. You could also take care of the fabrication in step number 3 by covering the transom and the top edge of the rear in carpet.

Moving on to #3.... If you have a side grinder you could plane those pieces down and make the cosmetics more appeasing to you.

4 - again.. use the stuff from #1 and sand it down....

I'm not sure what color that stuff turns once it cures - what I used was green colored, but I didn't care because I was painting my boat. If you aren't planning on painting, I'm not sure what all you could do - especially since you're anal with the cosmetics (don't sweat that, I am too).

User avatar
Waterwings
Posts: 9266
Joined: 12 Oct 2007, 09:41
12
Location: Northwest KY. Fairweather angler

Rhyan Craft

Post by Waterwings »

Just from looking at the inside and outside pics of the transom, you may not want to fill-in the ones I've drawn a line around. Those screws appear to go to the knee braces supporting the transom inside. If you replace the transom wood, you'll need to not fill those 9 holes, so as to reattch the knee braces.

Image
Image1652VT RoughneckImageCarrot Stix LTX

User avatar
russ010
Posts: 4122
Joined: 29 Jul 2008, 20:56
11
Location: Roswell, GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by russ010 »

good catch waterwings... but for some reason, I can only see 8 holes in your drawing... #-o

User avatar
bassboy1
Site Sponsor
Posts: 3325
Joined: 29 May 2007, 13:26
13
Location: Cartersville, Ga

Rhyan Craft

Post by bassboy1 »

Waterwings is right. Those bolts are for the knee braces, and are there from the factory/very important. The only other option would be replacing the screws with long rivets (2 guys, and 2 small sledges are all that is need for those) if the flat head would be better than the bolt head.

For the console holes, go ahead and use whatever Russ010 mentioned. I don't usually recommend using something that dries hard in an aluminum boat repair, but since it isn't important/structural, and since you are anal about cosmetics, it would work just fine in this case.

For that gusset on each side of the transom, you may try getting a flapper disk on an angle grinder to grind that smoother, and use some sort of putty to fill in the low areas (as much as I don't like doing such like that - bondolike substances and boats never mix).
Or, another option is an aluminum abrasive disk on your angle grinder. You won't find these at Lowes/Home Depot. Do NOT use a standard abrasive, or any disk that has EVER ground on steel. A disk shattering at 10,000 RPM can happen with the first instance, and a thermite reaction (ever seen the Hindenburg episode of Mythbusters) with the second.
https://pro.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULL ... ail&smode=

Waterwings, you wouldn't believe what I had to go through to find those stupid things. And, I have yet to find a cutoff disk, just a thick grinding one. But yes, you were right. :wink:

User avatar
Brine
Moderator
Posts: 3236
Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
11
Location: GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by Brine »

Thanks for the replies. I don't know if you can tell from the pictures, but those gussets were obviously pieced in by someone because the weld looks like poo and the pieces cut look like some hack job. Can I just cut them both out? Also, what do I repair the crack in the top of the transom? The same stuff as the gunwale?

User avatar
russ010
Posts: 4122
Joined: 29 Jul 2008, 20:56
11
Location: Roswell, GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by russ010 »

I would use that aluminum epoxy... when that stuff cures - you can't break it. I blew a hole in a radiator in an old ford explorer a few years ago and used some of that stuff to fix it.. I drove another 5 hours after an hour cure and it held up. I think it's still going today, but not by me. I will NEVER buy another one of those POSs... (for those ford lovers out there, sorry... now the newer fords are not as bad (trucks) and the 250s are some of the best. Especially diesels)

User avatar
Brine
Moderator
Posts: 3236
Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
11
Location: GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by Brine »

What Have I Done??? :shock: I used to have a decent looking boat. :lol:

Well, I took out the decks yesterday and spent this morning cleaning out the boat. The front deck was actually 2 pieces of 3/4 which explains why it felt fairly solid up there. It was heavy too. The floor was 3/4 and sat on the ribs with foam underneath. The floor was a little soft, as I assume the bilge was not working correctly, and I think the boat was holding a fair amount of water at times. The rear deck (at the transom) was a mess. Obviously, water sat back here for a while. Unfortunately, you will have to take my word for it, because I didn't take a picture of what the boat looked like under the decks. I did notice that if you go to one of my previous pictures of the transom floor, you would see that where the drain is, the floor is completely black. After I removed the decks, I discovered about 1/2" of sludge on the floor back there. I spent roughly an hour scraping it out with a plastic putty knife. The rest of the floors were fairly nasty as well. Not sure how the boat could ever drain if it needed to, because of the amount of mud/foam pellet mortar that was in the channels. There was foam between the ribs on the floor that basically crumbled when I went to remove. When I got towards the back of the boat, there was about 1/4 piece of foam sticking out from under the livewell. The livewell was riveted on to the sides as well as the bench seat at the back. Knowing how much crud was under the deck, I had to remove the livewell to make sure it was clear of any obstructions and so I could see under it when it's time to test for leaks. Not sure If I just created more problems than solved tho....pics to follow.

Took the boat to the carwash with a bottle of Simple Green and 1 hr later, the boat is cleaner, but still looks dirty on the inside. Onto the pics and next series of questions.

1. What's the best product to clean the hull with at this stage? (sidenote-the livewell is removed from these pics) What's mainly left are stains in the aluminum where there was no paint. I plan on painting the whole boat eventually.

Image
Image
Image


Here's how the livewell was situated before
Image
Image
Image

Once Removed
Image

Outside of Boat
Image
Image

Basically, once I removed the rivets that attached the livewell I was able to pull it out enough to allow clearance for my reciprocating saw to cut the two pipes. Cracked the weld on the outside of the boat in the process :oops: . Now that I've done that, I will have to figure out a way to either patch the holes, or replumb the livewell using the same holes.

The Bench behind the livewell appears to be full of the pellet foam. Sure would make a nice place to put a hatch or two for storage. What do you think?

Questions, Comments, Concerns all appreciated!

User avatar
russ010
Posts: 4122
Joined: 29 Jul 2008, 20:56
11
Location: Roswell, GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by russ010 »

As far as cleaning the hull goes... if you are going to paint it, use a brillo pad... As far as the outside, use a sanding pad thats intertwined wire which you can get from Wal-Mart. It will scuff it up enough for your primer to adhere to.

As far as the rear bench - Cut out the top... Leave about an inch along the front and rear as a lip, and then on the sides it's best to make those cuts parallel with the floor.. Get rid of the foam unless you think you're going to flip the boat over - that's all it's good for anyways. Almost forgot.. If you put your seat back there, leave about a 15" wide platfor for your seat to go on. You can screw a piece of 3/4" ply over it to mount your seat to (always good to have a strong base there)

It looks good so far.. are you planning on using this in your first tourney in Feb??

User avatar
bassboy1
Site Sponsor
Posts: 3325
Joined: 29 May 2007, 13:26
13
Location: Cartersville, Ga

Rhyan Craft

Post by bassboy1 »

That little bit of foam in those benches isn't going to float that if swamped. Pull it out, or it will end up in your bilge a few pieces at a time for a period of a few years. That pellet foam shouldn't be allowed in boats.

User avatar
Brine
Moderator
Posts: 3236
Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
11
Location: GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by Brine »

Thanks Russ/Bassboy.

Bassboy, as resident tinbender, what do you suggest about the holes on the side of the boat from the livewell. How should I replumb this, or should I?

I really don't understand the logic of why it was plumbed this way in the first place. There was a hose going out the back of the livewell, through the bench and then out the transom next to the drain, then these two (in the pics on the side). What Is the top one supposed to be an overflow? If so, it doesn't seem to leave enough water in the well. The holes are maybe 5" off center.

User avatar
Brine
Moderator
Posts: 3236
Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
11
Location: GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by Brine »

Also, where do I buy that black stripping to go aournd the opening of the livewell?

Does anyone have a better solution?

Thanks.

User avatar
Brine
Moderator
Posts: 3236
Joined: 18 Jan 2009, 11:19
11
Location: GA

Rhyan Craft

Post by Brine »

jirwin6985 wrote:Brine the boat looks great so far. As far as plumbing the live well again. If you are going to reinstall it i would drill out the current holes to the size of a thru hull fitting and replum the hole thing. https://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... erralID=NA
Something like that. That way you dont have to worry about the old fiting leaking. If you have more questions Id be more than happy to explain more in depth. Are you looking to use the livewell it sounds like you arent sure whether you want to install it again or not.
Joe
Thanks jirwin. Yes, I think I am going to reinstall it, I just don't understand the layout of the holes. The fittings you showed look like they will do the trick if they are the right size. I will have to measure and make sure they are bigger than the current hole. I thnk I will either need to grind the current welds flat or cut bigger holes for the plumbing or else nothing will screw down evenly/flush with the hull. Thanks for your help!