My New 1448 Flat Bottom Project.

jcb · Post by **jcb** » 17 Nov 2010, 12:36

I likes what you has done so far.I glad to has joined up here and seen what all the people has done to there boat.The enginutity of the people has reelilly ingoverended me with my boat

RBuffordTJ · Post by **RBuffordTJ** » 17 Nov 2010, 12:44

azslabber wrote:Bufford I took a look at the work that you did on your tinny.Very nice.It made me decide to do the bottom of mine in the Steelflex.I have a couple little tears that I will be fixing tomorrow with the Lab Metal that will be here today.Just have to decide on a color.Thinking OD Green for mine.

Thanks man, glad I could be of assistance in some way. I love the work you have done on this, and when you finish with the Steelflex I think you will be very happy with the result. I am amazed at how slick the bottom is, and how completely water tight it is now!!!

dan-k · Post by **dan-k** » 21 Nov 2010, 18:43

azslabber, I am thinking of using Lab Metal on the exterior of a patch job on my Bass Tracker, sort of like a marine equivalent to Bondo. Having used it yourself, do you think it will work for this application? A link to my post: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopi ... 21&t=16508

SaltyBuckster · Post by **SaltyBuckster** » 22 Nov 2010, 13:36

Dan-K it worrks great and would be perfect for a patch job.I filled my boat full of water and let it sit for three days,Not one leak anywhere.My computer is down right now,hopefully will be able to post pics tomorrow.Trailer is completely done,waiting on my steelflex for the bottom.Put the lab metal on both sides.Works great.

dan-k · Post by **dan-k** » 22 Nov 2010, 15:02

Thanks for the reply. Someone else said it got soft after exposure to water, did you observe that at all? The first link to my post was moved because I posted in the wrong section, so here is an updated link: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopi ... =3&t=16508

SaltyBuckster · Post by **SaltyBuckster** » 25 Nov 2010, 21:40

Ok Everybody,computer is back in action.I have lots of pics to show.I'll start off with the trailer that is done except for the bunks.The only thing that I am going to change is the fenders.I'm going to sand them down again and paint them with the camo to match the boat,then clear coat them.

In the booth.All black inside and out of the frame.

Rollers installed

Put the rear guides on also.Bunks will be carpeted in black,and I have a new wiring harness for the plug and tail lights.

SaltyBuckster · Post by **SaltyBuckster** » 25 Nov 2010, 21:58

Ok,back to the boat.I finished with the Lab Metal,inside and out.I put the boat up on a stand and filled her up with water.The whole bottom had about 4 inches of water in it for 4 days.Had 1 pinhole leaking from the rear of the boat on the outside rib.Very easy fix.Had just enough Lab Metal left to fix it.

Leaking Culprit

All sanded getting the bottom ready for the Steel Flex now.

SaltyBuckster · Post by **SaltyBuckster** » 25 Nov 2010, 22:02

I called and ordered my Steel Flex on Tuesday.I got 1 gallon with the OD Green pigment.I stripped the bottom and up to that first body line on the side of the boat.I have it all masked off with paper and am going to paint the top and the gunnel with the same green that I painted the inside with.I'll get some pics of that on Saturday.

SaltyBuckster · Post by **SaltyBuckster** » 27 Nov 2010, 20:28

Moving right along.Waiting on my Steel Flex,figured I'de shoot the top of the boat to make some lines to follow.The rest will be rolled with Steel Flex.

Self etching Primer

Can't wait to get done with the outside and get it back on the trailer to finish it up.

SaltyBuckster · Post by **SaltyBuckster** » 27 Nov 2010, 20:32

I did'nt want to take the tag and letters off the boat until I got a new tag.I'm going to remove them all and get new ones.That will be in February.That's why I stuck with the Rustoleum Camo Paint.Easy to fix screw ups,lol.

DaveInGA · Post by **DaveInGA** » 27 Nov 2010, 23:00

Looking good dude!

SaltyBuckster · Post by **SaltyBuckster** » 28 Nov 2010, 00:37

To anyone that has used the Steel Flex,what else should I do to the boat to make it ready to roll on?In the pitures it is machine sanded with 80 grit.I'm going to go over where the little circles of paint are around the rivits.I still have to paint the transom and strip the area where the Steel Flex will go across the back.It is already sanded and etch primed back there.I'm going to put some masking tape across the back inline with what is already painted and strip it down to bare aluminum.Any input on this prep ???

Henry Hefner · Post by **Henry Hefner** » 28 Nov 2010, 15:04

azslabber wrote:To anyone that has used the Steel Flex,what else should I do to the boat to make it ready to roll on?In the pitures it is machine sanded with 80 grit.I'm going to go over where the little circles of paint are around the rivits.I still have to paint the transom and strip the area where the Steel Flex will go across the back.It is already sanded and etch primed back there.I'm going to put some masking tape across the back inline with what is already painted and strip it down to bare aluminum.Any input on this prep ???

Looks good to me! The only thing you haven't mentioned was removal of dust. I washed mine with soap and water and then went over it with acetone on a rag after it dried.

SaltyBuckster · Post by **SaltyBuckster** » 28 Nov 2010, 15:24

I take a damp rag and wipe it down and blow it off before doing any masking.I know that it has to be wiped down with Acetone before the Steel Flex,so they told me.Is 80 grit heavy enough for this?Or should I go to 60 or even 40 grit?

Henry Hefner · Post by **Henry Hefner** » 28 Nov 2010, 17:10

Heavier grit cannot hurt, since the steelflex is so thick, but I think 80 grit is plenty rough. Then again, I'm not an expert, just a one-boat user.

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