Recent content by blunt

If I were you I would just bit the bullet and buy a premade hatch and liner.. A tempress 1323 is close to the dimensions you specified. The 13x23 liner has a one inch flange so the cutout dimensions are closer to 10.5 x 20.5. https://tempress.com/store/1323-Access-12-Liner-White-p1527538 You...

The cowling is 92-94 like jasper said. The powerpack is under the fly wheel which was done on motors after '89 or so. The midsection is definitely 1990s, you can tell by the larger boxy looking exhaust relief ports.

I bought the us map version i think for 9.99 last week and really like it so far. Only bad thing is it drains my phone battery quick! I bought it specifically for the SonarCharts which is lake contour/topo maps made by the sonar logs from other users sonar units. I fish a lake which has no...

You should have two cables attached to the motor. Starboard side is the shift cable that you see in picture #2. We don't have a picture of the port side of the outboard where the throttle cable should attach.. heres what the port side should look like...

I used contact cement and I've had no issues after 3+ years.. also my boat stays uncovered outside year round. Contact cement can be tricky though if you never used it before because of the instant setup.

the late 80's and 90's 35hp model numbers you see are identical to 30hp we have here in the states. those models were sold in other countries like Argentina and were still rated at the crank instead of the prop.

omc switched to primers in 1984. you could put a carb with a butterfly choke on a newer motor though.. the choke knob/handle does line up where the manual primer is if its a tiller motor.

no points and condenser on a 88 rude.. it uses a more modern cd ignition.

An outboard with a jet lower unit loses roughly 30% of its rated horsepower. A 60/40 would mean its a 60 hp motor if it were using a standard prop lower. But since its equipped with a jet lower its now effectively a 40 hp motor. Outboard hp ratings are taken at the prop shaft since around...

Hydroturf would be my choice. it's pretty tough, doesn't abosorb water, and it's no-slip when wet. The downside would be the price to do a whole 18ft boat. https://hydroturf.com I originally used a roll on bedliner (durabak uv resistant formula) over plywood and it was ok.. but after about a...

I bought it straight from hydroturf.com.. it was there "b" stock if they still have that.. supposed might have some minor imperfections but I never saw any in the sheet i got. I didn't find any scrap material to compare but I took a couple of quick pics with my cellphone...

I've had hydroturf on my decks for 2 years now and my boat has never been covered and sits outside 365 days a year in direct sunlight. I don't think it has degraded at all.. If i can find a scrap piece in my building I'll snap a picture to see if its faded any. I would strongly recommend it...

ebay would be my first choice for a used factory service manual... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-OMC-Johnson-Evinrude-Outboards-40-55-HP-Service-Repair-Shop-Manual-507872-/190623862686?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item2c62114f9e or if you want a expensive brand new book...

Yes. 1976 - 1988 40hp to 60 interchange.

I also only use non ethanol fuel for my boat and small engines... so I take whatever grade I can get it in. Sometimes I drive 20 mins out of my way just for the good stuff. I even go as far to test gas for ethanol if it's from somewhere I haven't bought from before. Check out...