Adding a zinc anode to a tin boat for saltwater use

DaleH · Oct 8, 2015

Zinc Anode Info: They say a picture is worth a 1,000 words, so I’ll be brief. Quite simply I don’t paint or I remove the paint where I’ll affix a common ‘rudder’ zinc to the hull.

For a zinc anode to work correctly, it must be in full contact with bare, clean metal. I drilled out, then wet out the wood transom core with thin epoxy, then imbedded a SS threaded-insert into the wood using thickened epoxy once the thin stuff had ‘kicked’ (tacky, i.e., starting to cure). This makes sure that the 2 epoxy layers chemically bond with each other, making a stronger junction, and albeit a waterproof one to boot!

Then I just affix the rudder zinc with a short SS bolt, gooped up well (bolt threads only) with marine synthetic water-resistant grease, e.g., OMC/Bombardier ‘Triple Guard’ grease.

Simple and it works 8) !

Skiffing · Oct 10, 2015

Easy to install - and a good thing to do.

This allumalloy anode was installed past spring. It is 3" X 6" x 0.5"

The boat was slipped for a couple of nights only and engine hours are about 100 since installation.

The pitting you see would have been aluminum corrosion.

richg99 · Oct 10, 2015

Good job and a timely post for me. I am dragging my 1648 Lowe back to TX at the end of the week. Obviously, this boat has only been used in freshwater. I seem to remember reading that the zincs for saltwater are a different material than the zincs for freshwater.

Any input on this?

thanks, richg99

DaleH · Oct 10, 2015

richg99 said:
Good job and a timely post for me. I am dragging my 1648 Lowe back to TX at the end of the week. Obviously, this boat has only been used in freshwater. I seem to remember reading that the zincs for saltwater are a different material than the zincs for freshwater.

Any input on this?

thanks, richg99

Yes, magnesium anodes are recommended for OBs in freshwater, as per www.boatzincz.com. See their Chart B for boats w/ no shore power connections, per https://www.boatzincs.com/index.html

Also reproduced below ....

iam2sam · Oct 27, 2015

Does the anode need to be below the water line for a boat that lives on a trailer?

SAM

DaleH · Oct 27, 2015

iam2sam said:
Does the anode need to be below the water line for a boat that lives on a trailer?

How's this Sam ... for a boat that lives on a trailer and is only in the water for hours to a few days ... you don't even need to install any anode IMHO =D> .

Pappy · Oct 27, 2015

Couple tips on zinc anodes.

If they look great after several months of usage? ....... they aren't working! Replace.
If they look like they get a coating of white scale on them?.......they aren't working. Clean and put back in use. Monitor.

Zincs, good zincs, will erode, pit, Look like Hell and "go away". That is what they are designed to do. If they aren't, they are not working.

PSG-1 · Oct 27, 2015

As crazy as it may sound, the BEST anode for an aluminum boat is an aluminum anode.

It provides protection in salt, and brackish waters. Magnesium is too reactive for salt water, and will actually lift the paint off the boat. Zinc isn't reactive enough, and the boat will corrode if you leave it in the water for long periods of time.

Jim · Oct 28, 2015

Great thread! :beer:

I see an article coming on the homepage with all your expertise put into it.

Jim

Crazyboat · Nov 12, 2024

iam2sam said:
Does the anode need to be below the water line for a boat that lives on a trailer?

SAM

If you were going to install one, doing so above the waterline would serve no purpose.

DaleH · Nov 13, 2024

PSG-1 said:
As crazy as it may sound, the BEST anode for an aluminum boat is an aluminum anode.

It provides protection in salt, and brackish waters. Magnesium is too reactive for salt water, and will actually lift the paint off the boat. Zinc isn't reactive enough, and the boat will corrode if you leave it in the water for long periods of time.

As @PSG-1 mentions, NOTE there are 3 different anode types available - zinc, aluminum, or magnesium. So choose the right one for your use. I used a 'zinc' as this boat was in saltwaters, but the other types may be a better choice for you.

A good source to buy these is www.boatzincs.com, as they sell all 3 materials in all sizes and shapes.

Zinc is the traditional anode choice for saltwater vessels.

Aluminum anodes are for use in all types of water: Salt, Brackish, and Fresh. They are an alternative to zinc anodes as they are 1) more active, 2) provide better self-cleaning performance, and 3) offer a longer service life. They are preferred for protecting vessels with marine grade aluminum underwater metals.

Magnesium anodes are the best choice for fresh water vessels (only).

David Atkins · Nov 14, 2024

DaleH said:
How's this Sam ... for a boat that lives on a trailer and is only in the water for hours to a few days ... you don't even need to install any anode IMHO =D> .

Especially if the boat is washed / cleaned after being in salt water; I have used my tin in any water but always rinse it off after any use, trying no to offer any environmental contamination or cross contaminate when I fish different waters!

Bantou · Nov 14, 2024

David Atkins said:
Especially if the boat is washed / cleaned after being in salt water; I have used my tin in any water but always rinse it off after any use, trying no to offer any environmental contamination or cross contaminate when I fish different waters!

That is supposed to be SOP for all Texas boaters. You are legally required to drain all of the water out of your boat (including bilges, live wells, etc.) and remove any visible plants, animals, or mud from the boat and trailer after you get off the water. Failure to do so is a Class C Misdemeanor for the first offence and a Class B Misdemeanor for the second. It's also highly encouraged that you wash the boat down even if there isn't anything visible, but I can't find anything stating that it is legally required.

David Atkins · Nov 14, 2024

Bantou said:
That is supposed to be SOP for all Texas boaters. You are legally required to drain all of the water out of your boat (including bilges, live wells, etc.) and remove any visible plants, animals, or mud from the boat and trailer after you get off the water. Failure to do so is a Class C Misdemeanor for the first offence and a Class B Misdemeanor for the second. It's also highly encouraged that you wash the boat down even if there isn't anything visible, but I can't find anything stating that it is legally required.

I like that, here in Virginia the age old deal was put your boat in, fish, pull your boat out and go home; people looked at me like I was crazy when I pulled my boat out took it over to the side and power washed the boat, motor and trailer!

Bantou · Nov 14, 2024

David Atkins said:
I like that, here in Virginia the age old deal was put your boat in, fish, pull your boat out and go home; people looked at me like I was crazy when I pulled my boat out took it over to the side and power washed the boat, motor and trailer!

It's because of Zebra Muscles. We have them in something like 40 of our lakes, most of which are hugely popular either for recreation or fishing. The two closest to me are supposed to be clean, but it only takes one A-hole that doesn't follow the rules to spread them.

David Atkins · Nov 14, 2024

Bantou said:
It's because of Zebra Muscles. We have them in something like 40 of our lakes, most of which are hugely popular either for recreation or fishing. The two closest to me are supposed to be clean, but it only takes one A-hole that doesn't follow the rules to spread them.

Yep, I know all about the zebra muscles here in VA.; I used to work for VADEQ and heard all about them from our Biologists; I was washing boat long before I worked for DEQ, just something my Dad and I did to keep our pond fishing cleaner and uncontaminated.

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