Foam Replacement

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
It might dry out in a couple of decades but, I may not be around by then. I think it’s easier to get water in the foam than out. (Edit; It’s usually collecting water for a decade or more before it becomes an issue.)

Man this project is getting expensive. The 3/4” marine ply is about the same price as 1/8” 5052 aluminum. However, it looks like it’s an extra $400 more expensive than aluminum by the time you add epoxy, tools and deck paint.

Probably could have got a better deal on the marine ply if I lived on the west side of the state but, I don’t. Thank God.

Oh well. I’ve made my decision to take the wood route on this project and I’m sticking to it. Picked up the plywood today and it’ really nice. Much better than the crap that I bought three years ago.
 
This saturated foam issue comes up again and again. You would think this stuff should dry out with a little time, but that just doesn't seem to happen. The water must somehow get encapsulated and can't evaporate.

When I redid the ‘67 StarCraft, the water logged foam I pulled out, never dried out. It was sheets of white styrofoam. My mistake was not replacing the dry pieces. A few years latter, that was water logged too. Boat was always pumped out after rain storms and when we were gone, pulled up on an angled trailer with drain plug pulled.

Speaking of drain plug, having the floatation has probably saved many boaters that forgot to put it back in.
 
I bought more epoxy (WS 105 & 206) than needed. A gallon of resin was the same price as two quarts. Maybe a coat of epoxy on the pink or blue board will help it stay dry longer.
 
Floatation is a leading USCG inspection failure and many boat recalls are for flotation.

I never used my life jacket, but I keep it in like new condition, wear it constantly.

Could go on for hours about safety equipment.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240607_093031_Firefox~2.jpg
    Screenshot_20240607_093031_Firefox~2.jpg
    116.5 KB · Views: 0
  • Screenshot_20240607_093422_Firefox.jpg
    Screenshot_20240607_093422_Firefox.jpg
    104.8 KB · Views: 0
I have an ARkansas traveler mid 60's no deck. It had 3 air chambers attached under the seats. Many years ago someone took out the front seat and chamber and cut a hole in the middle seat chamber to try and make a fish well. not a good idea. I am finally reserecting the boat since It has sentimental value to me. I am replacing all the wood seats including the front missing one. What I did was make a new chamber for under the front seat and I am filling all three chambers with blocks of used dock foam. Price was right too. Free from Craigs list. I know this is different than a deck application but this foam can be cut or sliced and put under the deck. Just my thoughts. Good Luck
 
Just to update on this project. I bought two sheets of 4x10 fir marine plywood at $645. Cut to the required sizes, drilled and counter sunk holes then finished with three coats of West systems epoxy on the bottom and sides. Coated the top with two coats of West Systems two coats of one part epoxy floor paint with aluminum oxide grit.

IMG_2118.jpeg
When everything was dry I moved the panels outside for a week so I could clean the shop. During that week of time the plywood delaminated, rendering it unusable. I finally got my money back this week but, I lost about $400 in epoxy, paint and tools. Not to mention the 40 hours or so of time.

The lighter color tan areas are just dust that accumulated on the panel.

IMG_2222.jpeg

IMG_2221.jpeg

Will restart the deck project late this month and I’m using aluminum this time around.
 
Today's lumber isn't what we used to buy years ago; I bought some lumber for a project and after transporting it to my shop and setting it up until I could get to use it, it began to warp, twist and become unusable as well.

Spoke with a friend in lumber trade and he told me the manufacturing process used today isn't what it should be, manufacturers move lumber too fast and don't control the moisture content like they used to do as well as the recommended drying time and processes to keep the wood stable after it is processed!

Go figure!
 
The plywood supplier offered to replace it and I told them, “No thanks. I’m going with aluminum, I know aluminum won’t delaminate.”

That is just a shame. I've had pieces of exterior ply from the big box store sitting outside for a few years that hasn't done that. Did they give any reasons why that happened?
 
That is very disappointing! Just curious... what was your sequence for applying the epoxy? Did you lay one coat after another and then set them outside after tack-free? Was it humid or wet outside while the epoxy was curing? Was there dew at night?

Personally, I am NOT impressed with the epoxy craze that is sold as being "the best money can buy". Personally, I think it's NOT.

1/2" plywood with a layer of 3/4 ounce glass matt top and bottom is very strong and almost bulletproof, and it costs less than epoxy. Pre-drill and seal all holes with resin and you have one tough flooring system that will last for decades.
 
I would not be a happy camper, either. Going with the premium marine plywood, epoxy, and the time and effort. :mad:

I’ve used gluvit with great results, and by most accounts the West System is suppose to be better. While the plywood was probably the fault, I’d be so pissed off, I’d through a cover over the boat and probably not touch it again until next year.
 
Top