Is the motor height going to be an issue?

LDUBS said:

"Also, if your motor isn't at least 70% of the max hp your boat is rated for you're probably going to wish you had gone bigger. Do it off the start. I should have just gone with the 20 or at least the 15 off the start. Lesson learned."

We hear this over and over. It really is good advice. I think 80% might be an even better rule.

BTW, hitting 20+ mph solo with the 9.9 is pretty good.

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Bailey Boat said:

I believe I suggested that solution in post 11 back in April...

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FuzzyGrub said:

Agree with Thill, test it. It is probably going to run fine with the 1" blocks. Going to flush may pick you up some mph, but might cause problems when turning. Many mfgs recommend 1" below. My 10HP Sportwin sits like that on both boats I've used it on.

To go higher than the 1" blocks, can you just use the transom thru bolt mounts?

Get a Tiny Tach or equivelent to record WOT rpms, along with something

Bailey Boat said:

Do you realize that the jack plate also sets the motor back?? Almost un avoidable....

Check Tiny Boat Nation for a "Transom Plate".... https://tbnation.net/products/transom-mounting-bracket

If you order make CERTAIN of your existing transom thickness.....

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What if you bolted two pieces of angle taller than the transom to the back of the transom with a "riser" bolted to the angle from top of transom to desired height? Thinking about trying this myself, just concerned if the angle or "riser" flexes and cracks the mounting bracket. Considering this for a 15hp johnson clamp on.

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S.E.R.E.NITY NOW said:

You did. I really didn't want to move the motor further back for several reasons. One was excessive bow rise if I upgraded to the 20hp which I did. And it has a longer tiller than the 9.9 so the reach didn't change much. But now I have the bow rise issue with the extra weight and it being set back behind the transom.

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