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Remove it - it's got more value to you than it will to a potential buyer.

:evil: I'm sorry - where in his post does he even mention the size boat he's using the motor on - only the speed before and after the change. You make a lot of assumptions and pass an awful lot of judgement for a person working with no information beyond the simple fact that he went faster...

There is a rubber washer on each SS bolt head pictured there...easier to see in the larger original pictures. Amazing what a $0.20 part will save you in the long run...

Yes - but the carb design changed half way through the '87 models to the same design using the same top cover and gasket kit between the pre '93 models as the post '93's - but how deep the similarities run are anyone's guess.

Pappy deferred to the same logic and gave me the same advice, which was my inclination unless he told me they were the same or I can get my hands on a '93 or later and a '87(late)-'92 carb side by side to see if the ports and vacuum lines are the same sizes given the fact that they're based on...

Curiosity - how fast do you go in that 1236 with the 15? That's essentially the same hull I'll be using so I'm just trying to gauge whether it's worth it or not to keep up the search for the 15hp carb for my '93.

I've got a '93 and I'm on the prowl for a 15hp carb for it - though I haven't been able to locate one...yet...I can find plenty of 15hp carbs for the preceding model (thru '92). Here's a write-up I found on the newest generation of 9.9 & 15hp's: http://www.leeroysramblings.com/OMC_9.9_1993.htm...

My setup was different than yours - I was working on a Merc, where mine weren't seating tight and I could see light through them. They certainly weren't loose, I did not have backfiring through the carb - that's something you won't miss by accident. I did post about it with pictures when I...

5k lbs for a 25' boat? That doesn't sound too bad on paper.

Did you inspect the reed block to make sure the reeds are seating? I had a similar symptom (only running on full choke, fully cleaned rebuilt carb, good spark & compression etc.) and the reeds were the culprit.

I'm with nccatfisher - that's the plate of the transom that cracked, not the weld. No way to tell whether it was caused by running in heavy chop too often, hanging too heavy a motor or hanging the motor with too much setback to where it applied too much torque, but one way or the other the top...

They serve to keep the sides from bowing out - here's a decent depiction of what I'm talking about that user Shaugh posted on a similar topic: https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=45618&hilit=hull+flex#p457929 I doubt it matters much if you're not using an outboard with it.

BTW - make yourself a pair of pigtails with a female blade fitting at one end and a ring terminal on the other - makes it easier to connect to the posts on your other 12v batteries (in parallel) in order to recharge the fishfinder battery.

I power my 898 all day with one of those. Haven't had a problem in 2 years.

Agreed, it sounds like there's a piece of debris acting as a check valve going to the tell - there is hardly any pressure at all at the tell, so it wouldn't take much to block flow to it off.

4.8" ones are taken, others still available.

I will try this on my blade baits this fall/winter on the smallies...kills me when a 4+lb fish tosses the lure boat-side, but it feels like it happens as often as they make it in the boat.

For anyone looking to make/recycle their baits I'm selling my plasti-stone molds in sizes 2.8" ($10), 3.3" ($11), 3.8" ($12) & 4.8" ($15). All are like new single-cavity molds. Work great with a shot of cooking oil spray as a mold-release. All you need is an injector (1.5oz ones are available...

Does your outboard not have a pull start too? Seems like most have a pull rope under the cowl in case of emergencies.

Looks like a Sierra switchbox is only $150 new, I'd be going new at that point if used is $100