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Couple things in the last few days Rear framing is done - including the supports for the seat base...going with the same setup in the rear as I had in the canoe. I also laid in two lengths of 1/16" FRP to make a smooth bottom - especially on the port where the rod locker is going...not going...

More work today - probably another day's work to finish framing the rear section before moving to the casting deck and TM 'deck'. Also finished the connections for the livewell plumbing.

Got a good start on the main framing today. Aft-most risers and cross-member, 3 sides of the livewell and the starboard-side main hull support. I'm using brazer head drive rivets for the hull supports...they'll be sealed and painted over despite being well above the waterline.

Go right to a rattle-can? Rustoleum Specialty Camouflage spray paint - comes in flat sand https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/camouflage-spray?ls=263653&lc=Sand

That looks like standard CCX sheathing - used in roofs, subfloors and interior walls. I don't believe that it's treated, but calling the store you purchased it from and asking would be the safe route.

A pic would help...

But they're so much more fun!

I would do one of two things. 1: Get a sheet of aluminum and cover the old hole - weld, rivets with sealer, something. Then drill a new hole the proper size. 2: Get a fitting the proper size and a neck-down adapter. Trying to get that smaller fitting to properly seal the larger hole is going...

I did exactly that for the switch-plate and USB socket I mounted on my old canoe.

I wouldn't - saltwater motors use slightly different parts in certain sections of the build. Use a freshwater rated TM in salt - and say goodbye to any warranty. Far as models rated for saltwater use. Minn Kota Riptide series - everything from PowerDrive through Ulterra MotorGuide XI3 and XI5...

Ya - if it's bees, getting an apiarist to move them is the best bet. Wasps and hornets - only one answer.

Seriously - I'm with Dale. Even though I do a lot around the house myself - ridding the house of insect-pests of any type is best left to the pros. They know not only how to do it safely, but also how to prevent recurrences.

I would replace that given the splintering. Any decent plywood would do - make sure to seal it good. Varathane oil based exterior Spar Urethane at minimum...two-part epoxy is better.

Few rules to make your tires last as long as possible. 1: Make sure they're up to pressure. Use the numbers on the tire, not the trailer's recommendations. Always check pressure when cold, not after they've run a bit. 2: Inspect regularly for any road-debris in the treads...pick it out. 3...

Weather to do the pour foam has been a bear - winter in Minnesota don'tcha know. Even with the propane heater, have to wait for 30+ degree days to do it. BUT Today it hit 43 outside - temp in the garage was 72 with the heater running...and I finished the pour-foam in the floor sub-frame. A...

If you have one of those two previous close, they can do it. Local mechanic - not a 'big box' shop like Midas or something - I've got 4 independent mechanics with shops in a 2 mile radius of my place. Otherwise, any decent auto parts store (O'Reilly, Autozone, etc)

Trailer tires - about the same as car/truck tires. Five years is a long time...eleven...definitely replace them. Where?: Northern Tool and Equipment Tractor Supply Those are the two biggies IMO.

Heck with a main fuse - circuit breaker that doubles as the main battery switch. This is what I'm putting in the F-9 for the general wiring - a 60amp (same model, just heftier) for the TM main...both up front close to the batteries.

If that deep-cycle battery has a CCA rating - then yes, you can crank the engine with it. Some deep-cycles are NOT rated as starting batteries...so take care.