Boat Wiring Questions..

[Knapstacks89]

Hey guys!! I’m working on redoing a Spectrum bass boat and I wanted to get some feed back on my wiring plan. So I am running a 9.9Hp Yamaha on at 1996 Spectrum Dominator. I have a 55lbs thrust 12v Minnkota trolling motor, 2 Garmin 7SV’s, 2x Johnson bilge pumps one automatic, one manual, 4 small led lights and I’ll be using flo-rite livewell system. This is the wiring I plan on using. Any advise???

2 Deep Cycle Batteries
4g to Battery Switch(1,2,Combine)
10g to bus bar 30Amp Fuse
8g trolling motor 60 Amp Circuit Breaker
14g all lights and pumps

 

[DaleH]

Given:

2 Deep Cycle Batteries
4g to Battery Switch(1,2,Combine)
10g to bus bar 30Amp Fuse
8g trolling motor 60 Amp Circuit Breaker
14g all lights and pumps

Hi!

I don't run trolling motors so someone else will need to chime in on that. Your plan looks solid. Keep in mind the maximum draw of all accessories on the circuit, say like that off the buss bar. Instead of 30 amps, you could also add up what your using on that 10 AWG run and determine the maximum 'worst case' draw. Or reference the ampacity chart for the wire run BOTH to AND fro from the power to the buss, versus the wire gauge and the chart tells you the max wire rating for that 'total' length.

NOTE ampacity calculations are based on lengths of both the POS and NEG runs, so a buss bar 10' from the battery would have an ampacity based upon a total 20' run ... many miss this important detail. That chart is attached below, just for FYI or knowledge.

Lights - Could easily go to 16, especially if LED

Wire Sources - I price between these places: https://www.delcity.net/ or https://www.bestboatwire.com/

Looks like a solid plan to me! Use adhesive-lined heatshrink and never worry about a run/circuit again.

.....

 

[Knapstacks89]

Thanks Dale! Anyone think I’ll run into any issues cranking and 9.9HP with a deep cycle instead of a cranking? Should I isolate my batteries or run them parallel?

 

[MN Fisher]

If that deep-cycle battery has a CCA rating - then yes, you can crank the engine with it. Some deep-cycles are NOT rated as starting batteries...so take care.

 

[Knapstacks89]

Thanks MN

 

[onthewater102]

Here's minn kota's wiring guide:

https://www.minnkotamotors.com/support/trolling-motor-installation-guides/trolling-motor-wiring-and-battery-guide?miwg

 

[wmk0002]

If it were me, I would size my main accessory fuse (that leads to the bus or whatever) based on the primary wire gauge allowable. You should be individually fusing anything downstream of that so everything and its smaller wires will have protection there. The main fuse is mainly to keep that primary wire from the battery from burning up. I just say size it a good bit bigger than you think so if you ever add on even more accessories down the road you don't have to change that fuse out (assuming it a fixed amp fuse) - just add accessories with correct wire size and fuse as you go and leave the wiring off the battery alone.

 

[MN Fisher]

If it were me, I would size my main accessory fuse (that leads to the bus or whatever) based on the primary wire gauge allowable. You should be individually fusing anything downstream of that so everything and its smaller wires will have protection there. The main fuse is mainly to keep that primary wire from the battery from burning up. I just say size it a good bit bigger than you think so if you ever add on even more accessories down the road you don't have to change that fuse out (assuming it a fixed amp fuse) - just add accessories with correct wire size and fuse as you go and leave the wiring off the battery alone.

Heck with a main fuse - circuit breaker that doubles as the main battery switch.


This is what I'm putting in the F-9 for the general wiring - a 60amp (same model, just heftier) for the TM main...both up front close to the batteries.

 

[wmk0002]

If it were me, I would size my main accessory fuse (that leads to the bus or whatever) based on the primary wire gauge allowable. You should be individually fusing anything downstream of that so everything and its smaller wires will have protection there. The main fuse is mainly to keep that primary wire from the battery from burning up. I just say size it a good bit bigger than you think so if you ever add on even more accessories down the road you don't have to change that fuse out (assuming it a fixed amp fuse) - just add accessories with correct wire size and fuse as you go and leave the wiring off the battery alone.

Heck with a main fuse - circuit breaker that doubles as the main battery switch.
Capture.JPG

This is what I'm putting in the F-9 for the general wiring - a 60amp (same model, just heftier) for the TM main...both up front close to the batteries.

Good point. I did the same on one of my boats where I used a Blue Seas one just like Minn Kota sells for the same thing.