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Whatever you plan on using to treat or preserve the wood, it should be done to every side and edge, even inside any holes. Let it cure and treat it a second time, every edge, side or nook & cranny. Let it cure a second time. When installing the wood (or the aluminum plate) to the aluminum boat...

Using my hands only, the part did not fail. I was trying to bend the test piece over my knee when it eventually failed. The GG failed. I am going to clamp each piece in my vice next, and try to bend and twist until the next failure occurs. I drove up to Norfolk to buy some aluminum sheet...

After allowing time for the glue to cure, I started handling my test piece. The G-flex adhesive is on the left, and is amber colored. It is the only one that is a two part adhesive that must be mixed, it is hard and rigid compared to the others. G-flex is the most expensive. The other three...

That’s looking nice. Good job! I suggest you apply 3M 5200 or equivalent to every part you permanently attach to this boat. It should be between the wood transom and the aluminum skin, and between the engine plate and the skin. Emery fastener should be dipped or brushed with 5200, prior to...

That boat in the video above is pretty nice. Congrats! I don’t see a need for much more boat, considering what the OP is talking about doing on the water. As far as removing the center seat, everyone has provided excellent advice in this thread. I had to Google to see what a u14 Valco looks...

I wouldn’t paint it either. Sounds like you are a good plan and defined schedule. It’s gonna be fast with a 35…good choice.

I have four different brand adhesive’s curing. I glued aluminum coupons together, after grinding with a flap disc, and cleaning each with acetone. I put on approximately the same amount of each adhesive and clamped them tight enough to get good contact, with plenty of squeeze out. I am trying...

That’s what I was thinking. That’s how I have always done it in my 1648 and a Ranger BB I recently sold.

Looking good. What are your plans for that freshly cleaned aluminum? Is there a treatment you can apply that will help retain that look?

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For those who have never dealt with solid rivets, I will talk about how I removed the rivets that were attaching the various parts I have removed. The rivets I removed were 1/4” (.25) Brazier Head rivets. I drilled each rivet head with a new bit smaller than 3/16” (.187), probably closer to...

When we were test running the engine last week, we noticed water leaking into the boat on each side of the forward tunnel structure. This may require the seams to be welded, I’m not sure yet. It seems odd they are not fully welded at the factory. If they were not fully welded from the factory...

Back to my 1751 tunnel hull duck boat. The hull interior condition looks worse that it is. I haven’t found any corrosion. The metal is thick and structurally sound except where cracked. The rivets are tight and standing the test of time. The transom was flexing and cracked the rear seat...

When I started this thread, in the title I mention this is my “first tin boat project”. I guess I misspoke…in 1987 I bought a Aluma-Craft run-about, but I don’t remember what year the boat was. I only have one picture of it from the day I bought it. This picture is at my buddies house where I...

The hull was full of leaves, and dirt under the seats. I blew most of it out with a leaf blower. I raised the trailer tongue so the hull would drain, and pressure washed the interior and exterior. The interior metal looks bad, because it is discolored and lots of little missing paint specks...

I removed the rear seat assembly today, exposing the entire hull interior. I drilled 12 solid rivets (.25”), removed 4 screws & nuts, and 2 pop-rivers per side. Once I removed all the fasteners on each side, the seat assembly lifted out easily. As I suspected there was ample flotation foam...

My 1648 has a 15” transom. My 1648 has a transom mount “Endura 50” TM, it is a 30” shaft model. It’s been on the boat and working fine for years. On my 1648 a 30” is probably the shortest shaft TM you would want to use. See picture attached with it in the down position, this is the deepest it...

I removed the port side storage box that had the battery inside. It’s still in good shape, no cracks. The one from the other side is in pretty bad shape, with lots of cracks and a few bends. I am not planning on reusing either. I removed the steering console. It has a lot of cracks from years...

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I drilled out eight .25” solid rivets, and removed the little storage box on the starboard side. I also removed all the steel screws that were sticking out of the ribs. They were holding the plywood floor in place many years ago. I found an old “floating blind” registration placard, and a...