1992 Polar Kraft MVT-1751 with a 1992 Evinrude 60 HP…my first tin boat project

[Axhammer]

I’ve had a few boats over the years.

I have a 1992 Smoker Craft 1648 with a 1993 25 Rude. I bought the boat, motor & trailer for $2K in 2005.

I just sold my 1998 Ranger R91-I Bass Boat.

I just bought the 1751. It’s a little rough around the edges, being used for duck hunting for ten years, then it was parked since COVID. This will be my first tin boat project…wish me luck!

The MVT-1751 is a riveted Metal (aluminum), V-hull, tunnel designed for running skinny water.

 

[LDUBS]

I hope you circle back with pic's of the project -- I look forward to watching.

 

[Axhammer]

When I sold my Ranger, I told myself I would get by with the 1648. It is more than capable of doing a little fishing & crabbing, which is all I really want or need a boat for.

I also decided upgrading the 25 to a 35 on the 1648 would be fun. I have a bad habit…I “Feel the need for Speed”.

I picked up a nice clean Evinrude 35 SS engine from CL, that I plan on getting up and running, and putting on my 1648. My plan is to document everything I do to both boats in this thread. I am going to manufacture a Jack plate for the 1648, in an effort to get the maximum top speed out of the current 25 HP Rude, with the 13 pitch prop that’s been on it since I bought it. It seems to be the perfect prop for this set-up because it screams.

I did a GPS pass with it when I took it out for its test run the other day.

The 25 ran 31.6 MPH with a light load, just me and a paddle & life jacket.

I wonder how much I pick up with a Jack plate?

 

[Axhammer]

I’ll post some pictures of the 1751 from when I bought it. These are all “before” pictures.

 

[Axhammer]

 

[Axhammer]

Deleted.

 

[Axhammer]

View attachment 114760View attachment 114761

The 1751 is pretty much open from the rear seat forward. I can see several cracks in the center of the ribs. The front deck has a hole cut in it. The two storage boxes, are the only storage in the boat.

The port box has the battery, and the other has some miscellaneous equipment you would expect to carry in a boat.

My plan is to remove both storage box’s and build a new forward deck, extending it back far enough to locate some storage bins. I want to mount a trolling motor and a fishing seat post on the front deck as well, for fishing.

The two boxes will be removed, I won’t need them after extending the front deck, it will have plenty of storage in the front deck. Plus I may add storage under the rear seat.

I want to build a new console, a center console. I will be using this boat alone most of the time, so I am building it exactly the way I want it. I like the idea of centerline seating when driving the boat.

When I bought that Ranger, I did it, so I could take my wife fishing, which we did for years, but she doesn’t go with me that much anymore. That’s the primary reason I sold the Ranger. It was a big heavy boat, that could handle heavy water much better than the 1648. It was fast with a Mercury 200 EFI, but it was hard for me to load and unload the boat on my own. It was just too much boat for what I want, hence the 1751 found me…lol

 

[Axhammer]

This hull weighs less that 400 lbs empty. When I get done with it, with an extended deck with storage bins, a trolling motor & two batteries, I suspect it will add some weight, but it should remain light for its size. I do plan on installing .125” sheet aluminum for the floors too. I will post a sketch of my vision for this boat. My center console will have a single passenger seat in front of it. I will use this as the live well/bait compartment.

 

[airshot]

When I sold my Ranger, I told myself I would get by with the 1648. It is more than capable of doing a little fishing & crabbing, which is all I really want or need a boat for.

I also decided upgrading the 25 to a 35 on the 1648 would be fun. I have a bad habit…I “Feel the need for Speed”.

I picked up a nice clean Evinrude 35 SS engine from CL, that I plan on getting up and running, and putting on my 1648. My plan is to document everything I do to both boats in this thread. I am going to manufacture a Jack plate for the 1648, in an effort to get the maximum top speed out of the current 25 HP Rude, with the 13 pitch prop that’s been on it since I bought it. It seems to be the perfect prop for this set-up because it screams.

I did a GPS pass with it when I took it out for its test run the other day.

The 25 ran 31.6 MPH with a light load, just me and a paddle & life jacket.

I wonder how much I pick up with a Jack plate?

The real question is what rpm is that motor turning?? To high and she will be short lived....

 

[Axhammer]

I have a mini tach I can throw on…good idea!

I have run WOT a lot with this motor over the years, she is definitely a screamer.

I seems to like the 10 x 13 prop that’s been on it since I bought the boat.

 

[Axhammer]

I took the 1648 out with the mini tach installed. The tach was reading on the high side at idle. I tried to change the settings, but that didn’t work out because the instructions don’t really address this particular function.I called it, and went back to the ramp. WOT was 31.4 so my top speed seems to be 31-32 MPH, as is, but I have changes on the way.

I have another tach that came with a console I bought for the steering components. I’m going to see it that tach works, and if I can get it working, I’ll try again.

I’ve been building a DIY 48” sheet metal brake so I can fabricate what I need for my 1751 project.

I’m going to fabricate some aluminum C channels that will get attached over each rib. Several ribs are cracked in or near the centers. I will weld the cracked ribs first, before attaching the C Chanel doublers. This will reinforce and strengthen each rib, while providing a level surface for the sheet metal floor to sit on. The ribs or floor in this boat have a slight V, or deadrise.

 

[thill]

I’m going to fabricate some aluminum C channels that will get attached over each rib. Several ribs are cracked in or near the centers. I will weld the cracked ribs first, before attaching the C Chanel doublers. This will reinforce and strengthen each rib, while providing a level surface for the sheet metal floor to sit on. The ribs or floor in this boat have a slight V, or deadrise.

I was going to suggest this. Good plan. It will make the hull land much more solidly when that 60 has it skipping the waves.

Looking forward to the pics of your progress

 

[KevinWI]

The 25 ran 31.6 MPH with a light load, just me and a paddle & life jacket.

I wonder how much I pick up with a Jack plate?

I MAY have gained 1mph with addition of a jack plate.

 

[Axhammer]

I got my 1751 back from the local marine mechanic I had taken it to for maintenance. The previous owners friend had removed & cleaned the carbs just prior to me purchasing the boat. I put an OEM non VRO FP on it myself, and it started and ran, poorly. I decided to take it to a professional and save the time messing with it myself.

Keith did a good job of getting the engine running properly, now I can focus on fixing the boat. Riding in it yesterday allowed me to see the bottom of the boat flexing where the cracked ribs are located.

Time to get to work!

 

[Still Afloat]

Looks like a fun project. Thanks for sharing it with us.

 

[Axhammer]

I drilled out eight .25” solid rivets, and removed the little storage box on the starboard side.

I also removed all the steel screws that were sticking out of the ribs. They were holding the plywood floor in place many years ago.

I found an old “floating blind” registration placard, and a really old cigarette butt.

I’m going to try and work on this boat every day, and get it back together this summer.

 

[Axhammer]

Deleted.

 

[thill]

Great to see her running in the video. It looks like she runs well.

Adding some gusset plates to each of the ribs has solved that problem in other boats. It might work for you.

I'm trying to remember, but I think a friend or a customer matched the V in the bottom, and ran the gussets from chine to chine, with lots of rivets through the sides of the ribs. Made everything rock solid, and once that was done, he put a floor over it, and it's been great ever since.

It will come to me who it was, but I remember those gussets. Not hard to do, even with modest skills.

 

[Axhammer]

I removed the port side storage box that had the battery inside. It’s still in good shape, no cracks. The one from the other side is in pretty bad shape, with lots of cracks and a few bends. I am not planning on reusing either.

I removed the steering console. It has a lot of cracks from years of use. I’m planning on fixing it up, by welding the cracks, and maybe a doubler or reinforcement where I think it needs it. I want to put it in my 1648 eventually.

I found more floating blind placards.

 

[Axhammer]

I removed the rear seat assembly today, exposing the entire hull interior.

I drilled 12 solid rivets (.25”), removed 4 screws & nuts, and 2 pop-rivers per side.

Once I removed all the fasteners on each side, the seat assembly lifted out easily. As I suspected there was ample flotation foam inside the rear seats. The foam was dry as a bone, no water soaked foam at all. There was a considerable amount dirt in each corner.