Adding cleat to my bow cap

[Terry13111]

Hi all, I’m new here. Just purchased my first boat, a Lund 16 WC. I want to add a cleat to my bow cap for my anchor line. My question is, will the end cap support if I drill my two mounting holes roughly where my red arrows point? The distance between the screw holes is 2”. Lund says the cap is cast, I’m always Leary of the strength of any cast metal. If I add it to the other side, it gets too close to the light.

Thanks for your time!

 

[billz]

Can you take that picture again with a ruler in there to we can determine how big that handle is. Thinking that handle is 2, 2 1/2ish inches?
I would think if you put in size 10 or less bolts you would be fine, probably even better if you thread the holes as those would be as small as possible. What if you reenfoced the under side with wood or steel? <- that would probably require to put in 4 holes, 2 for the cleat, 2 to hold the reenforcement.

 

[Terry13111]

The handle where I want to attach the cleat is 1-1/8” wide

 

[billz]

The handle where I want to attach the cleat is 1-1/8” wide

Thats pretty narrow to be drilling holes in it. Id renforce it with a 1/4" alum plate under it if I were to drill it. It would suck if you put a cleat on and then next time you pickup at that spot it just snaps. I would also use some adhesive putting on the renforcement plate.
I would also consider putting one on the far left and right and self tap it into the rail on each side, almost perpendicular to the handle.

 

[jojo]

Could you just use the bow eye for an anchor point?

 

[Terry13111]

Could you just use the bow eye for an anchor point?

I want to add a cleat so I can have something to quickly adjust the length of the anchor line with. Though once it was set I could wrap the line around the clear and pretty much stay in place.

 

[airshot]

How thick is the casting where you want to drill the holes ? That is the critical issue.." How heavy is that casting". Being a Lund, I would think it is a good heavy casting but, you never know. Probably your safest bet would be to take a strip of aluminum plate the same width as the handle part, but long enough to span the width on the underside of the cap. This will give you a good solid anchor point at each end for a bolt and nut. Then drill thru for the cleat and add bolts and nuts to hold that. That would be plenty safe and strong for your anchor line. If the casting was a 1/4" thick in that handle area, you are good without a backing plate, but, still drill thru with nut and bolt thru. Sorry for the bold print, have no idea why it changed.....

 

[Lost But Happy]

How thick is the casting where you want to drill the holes ? That is the critical issue.." How heavy is that casting". Being a Lund, I would think it is a good heavy casting but, you never know. Probably your safest bet would be to take a strip of aluminum plate the same width as the handle part, but long enough to span the width on the underside of the cap. This will give you a good solid anchor point at each end for a bolt and nut. Then drill thru for the cleat and add bolts and nuts to hold that. That would be plenty safe and strong for your anchor line. If the casting was a 1/4" thick in that handle area, you are good without a backing plate, but, still drill thru with nut and bolt thru. Sorry for the bold print, have no idea why it changed.....

Just one thing to add...I would use ny-lock nuts if you go the nut and bolt route.

 

[jojo]

I want to add a cleat so I can have something to quickly adjust the length of the anchor line with. Though once it was set I could wrap the line around the clear and pretty much stay in place.

Depending on how easy it is to reach your arm to the bow eye, you could use a Danik hook.

 

[Axhammer]

Depending on how easy it is to reach your arm to the bow eye, you could use a Danik hook.

That’s what I was thinking. That’s how I have always done it in my 1648 and a Ranger BB I recently sold.

 

[Terry13111]

I didn’t know such a thing existed, new to this stuff. Ordered one, I figure I’d try it before drilling into my boat. Thanks!!

 

[Al U Minium]

For safety I would definitely not recommend a cleat at that location.

It's a bad thing to catch body parts, clothing, and when loading and unloading from a trailer a snag you do not want.

Look at the slot in the bow cap, if you absolutely must run a line, that could do.

Use the boat a few times before you do something you will regret.

If you just have to fiddle with a line on the bow, do it from a thimble in a bowline.

Keep your bowline shorter than the length it takes to get sucked into the propellor.

Stay safe so you can enjoy boating

 

[pathunter]

The handle where I want to attach the cleat is 1-1/8” wide

Its going to be hard to use the handle once the cleat is there, isn't it? If you don't plan on using the handle, maybe trying to find some way to mount the cleat through the handle with no drilling? Don't buy the cheap "cast aluminum" cleats. They look crappy and aren't even drilled correctly. You can get black get plastic ones that are quite narrow and mount with only two screws. Also consider mounting inside of the hull on opposite corners front and back.

 

[Sea Antsy]

For safety I would definitely not recommend a cleat at that location.

It's a bad thing to catch body parts, clothing, and when loading and unloading from a trailer a snag you do not want.

Look at the slot in the bow cap, if you absolutely must run a line, that could do.

Use the boat a few times before you do something you will regret.

If you just have to fiddle with a line on the bow, do it from a thimble in a bowline.

Keep your bowline shorter than the length it takes to get sucked into the propellor.

Stay safe so you can enjoy boating

WORD....this kind of wisdom is what makes this site great, thanks

 

[airshot]

For safety I would definitely not recommend a cleat at that location.

It's a bad thing to catch body parts, clothing, and when loading and unloading from a trailer a snag you do not want.

Look at the slot in the bow cap, if you absolutely must run a line, that could do.

Use the boat a few times before you do something you will regret.

If you just have to fiddle with a line on the bow, do it from a thimble in a bowline.

Keep your bowline shorter than the length it takes to get sucked into the propellor.

Stay safe so you can enjoy boating

I agree the pointy ones can be very dangerous ! There are flatter units with rounded corners that are much safer. Also molded plastic are also good, no sharp points, low and well rounded.
I stay away from the pointy units, never even give them a thought....glad you brought it up...

 

[LaqueRatt]

Was thinking along the same lines when got mine, but after a little reflection decided cleats could well end up being more of a pain than a good thing. Like it's been said, I can see catching all sorts of stuff on them. Docks usually have cleats, so it's a little bit redundant to also have them on the boat itself. I do have this thing attached to the bow though that my anchor line goes through. Not sure what it's called but I see them on a lot of boats. Not sure I'm keeping it either though. Not all that hard to just toss the anchor over the side and tie a quick knot onto it. That's what I do with the stern anchor.

 

[airshot]

Was thinking along the same lines when got mine, but after a little reflection decided cleats could well end up being more of a pain than a good thing. Like it's been said, I can see catching all sorts of stuff on them. Docks usually have cleats, so it's a little bit redundant to also have them on the boat itself. I do have this thing attached to the bow though that my anchor line goes through. Not sure what it's called but I see them on a lot of boats. Not sure I'm keeping it either though. Not all that hard to just toss the anchor over the side and tie a quick knot onto it. That's what I do with the stern anchor.

I see what you are saying, however, the cleat is so much quicker to tie on and off with a half hitch. I have a number of friends that use that squiggly thing to weave their anchor/dock lines thru...they claim it works well on there small boats.

 

[Lost But Happy]

squiggly thing

Is that a technical term? lol

 

[airshot]

Is that a technical term? lol

Very technical !!! Lol...have seen a lot of them but cant remember what they are called for the life of me !! They are suppised to work well on smaller boats...

 

[airshot]

Found them...ZigZag boat cleats, they have small teeth like arms that you zig zag your rope thru to hold anchors, dock lines etc. Something to consider...no tying, just an easy weave. Whew...thought my mind was going there !!