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Rod locker, with organizing tubes. Rod butt holders. Forward battery hatch. Tackle storage hatch.

Now we start installing some of the electrical systems. This boat has a 36v system running the bow trolling motor, a 24v powering the transom trolling motor, and a 12v powering all the small accessories (lights, pumps, etc.). These batteries power the transom trolling motor, and the accessory...

Some more rod locker pieces added. Also, we're having to raise the bow deck up roughly 3.5" to match the stern deck. Another bulkhead. Forward of this bulkhead will be a wide storage hatch for tackle trays. Next step is to build the lower deck structure. There will be a seat base mounted...

A couple called me a while back about building a tournament ready electric only boat. After a trip up to the shop, where they got to see another electric build in progress, they decided on a 1756 Lowe Frontier. They also wanted to give it a little color, instead of just being another green/tan...

Okay, I can see why you did it. As someone who also fabricates and sells pods, I completely disagree with that recommendation, but if they put it there, more power to them. The long and short of it that any of the pod that is above water isn't doing you any good - only adding extra weight...

Why'd you add foam to the pods? If the question is whether or not water over the pods will hurt them, no it wont hurt them at all. They are supposed to be seal welded and pressure tested.

Rpijan, Take a look at the second product in this link. https://www.fishonfabrications.com/products.html Shown is the 'small' unit. I do have a larger one available for the higher thrust motors (your particular motor's clamp size will dictate which version is needed), and should have the...

What color are you going with? I've got a 1756 Lowe that got dropped off yesterday that's getting a very similar layout to the G3 in this thread, but it's an all black hull (gloss black lower, textured black gunwale cap and interior). They've got tan carpet going in it as well. It'll...

Yes you can. You want the holes perpendicular to the transom, so if the transom wood is removed and sitting on a drill press, it will be about as perfect as you can get. Once it's reinstalled on the sloped transom, the holes will be exactly as they are supposed to be.

2 hole saw holes will certainly do what you need, but I can easily cut half that radius with the right jig saw blade. I keep a handful of the following blades in the shop for just that purpose...

I don't think the contact cement gets rigid, but I usually use it only to stick the pad to the deck, not the carpet to the pad. I have a hard time laying larger pieces with contact cement without a second person (if a corner drops too soon, it's stuck), so for larger spans, I use a trowel on...

Contact Cement.

It is aluminum. Made to order, so it will be sized to fit your specific boat.

I would be using 5356 for welding those alloys under most circumstances. 4043 shines in a few instances (higher heat applications, parts requiring post weld heat treating, or if I want the weld to age harden a bit), but on any boat related project like you're planning, 5356 is much preferred...

Along with that, because TIG is much slower, the net heat input is much higher. As a result, on long seams, say hull seams, distortion becomes a much greater issue with TIG than with MIG. They both have their place. Trying to pick one or the other as 'better' is foolish, as certain jobs...

No reason. Those are arguably the absolute best designed outboards ever produced. Ever. It is just a measly 3hp, but if that horsepower is adequate, that outboard is very well designed, so durability and reliability are a non issue. Parts are still very easy to come by too. For example...

So does FishOn Fabrications. Available in absolutely any size. :D To answer the original poster, take a look at the 1448 in my sig. Obviously, those are welded in, not riveted/screwed down, but the stiffness principles will be the same. I do that particular mod all the time, and find it to...

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A few 8'6" rods, a handful of 8s and a couple in the 7.5' range. The taper of the hull of the boat is the limiting factor on length. Total of 11 rods. That and the large livewell was the reason we went with a 1756. Owner originally wanted a 1652, but it just wasn't possible to fit a 37+...

Customer walked into the shop the other day, asking about adding a step on his trailer. He's an older gentleman, and mentioned that climbing into the boat when launching is becoming a safety issue. Trying to stand on the slick narrow trailer tongue, then throw a leg over the gunwale of the...