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Dollars and Pounds? Does that mean you are 'worth your weight in gold?' :shock: I know, bad joke. #-o

Jigngrub, PM sent. Dawson

Zep-A-Lume or AlumaBrite. They will clean the aluminum, giving it a uniform and clean color, but doesn't give it the mirror shine that would make it reflective. The stuff comes as a concentrate, and is to be diluted, sprayed on, then thoroughly washed with freshwater. Dawson

Yep, someone (the designers/factory), neglected to install the foam in the proper manner. I'm not sure why you are adamant on taking a shortcut in the installation, only to make up for it with continual effort later on. There is nothing wrong with this, if it is known up front, and...

Yep, 2500 acres is 3.9 square miles. The lake closest to me, not nearly the largest in the state, is 20 square miles, for reference. Explain to me the difference between gauge height, and depth?

New Jersey's largest lake is only 4 square miles, and 9' deep? :shock: Wow.

Here ya go. This is the plastic sheet section of Grainger. It won't let me link further, so you'll have to hit HDPE at the left...

Those LEDs hardly draw anything. Like half a watt, or .035 amp. You can run a bunch of those through a 10 amp toggle or rocker switch without the slightest issue.

For the sake of anyone who finds this thread via search, Mcmaster-Carr and Grainger both carry a fairly good selection of HDPE, UHMW, and so on. Quick glance suggested prices may be a bit better than the site posted originally, but come only in incremental sizes - they aren't custom cut...

The full length idea you've drawn would probably be a significant aid in a crosswind, but would also make close quarters maneuvering a nightmare. A fixed rudder nearer the stern would be much better - would keep the stern from swinging around, yet allowing the I-pilot to make course...

I've used 5200 in a standard caulk gun before. Don't know how many sizes they make, but I know the one I used does fit a standard gun.

Some days, I sure wish I had that problem. There are times I'm lucky to have it open and shut 5 times....

Those fears (screws pulling out), are definitely founded. Plywood doesn't hold well in the end grain at all. I would say those hinges should solve your problem, assuming you have access to the underside of the plywood on both the hatch lid and deck opening.

I respectfully disagree. Plywood is great for a small budget, but if monetary concerns aren't the top driving factor, aluminum really stands out on top. It is what the rest of the boat is made of, for starters. If we are talking about the way to go, take the 'framing' out, and build the...

Snags are a big one. I've demonstrated this to a couple people before by taking a crankbait or jerkbait with multiple trebles (jerkbaits with 3 trebles do make a convincing argument), and pulling it through the carpet. The loop carpet will hang the bait nearly instantaneously, and removal...

Drain plug.

1/8" per layer, per side (if carpet is wrapping hatch opening, and hatch lid, that would be 1/2") for the closed loop 'cornrow' carpet (which I strongly recommend against - strongly). Fat 1/4" per layer, per side for 16 oz. open loop marine carpet (Total of 1" - 1.125" for a hatch with carpet...

Give them one (and only) one hit. After that, you are causing trouble. That being said, if they are leaking one drip every 10 seconds, they are leaking significantly more than the few I've ever rebucked. I would personally replace them from the word go. Sides would not hurt either. The...

The deck will help quite a bit. As far as fixing it, I do agree with the previous poster, in that you should fix the rivets correctly, as opposed to band-aiding it. That being said rebucking is not an accepted repair method - they need to be removed and replaced. The key feature of a rivet...

That's a good thread.