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Could you not use a lower volume electric fuel pump possibly mounted remotely?

IF it is a '77 is will be made by Eska, so that will put you looking for parts that aren't exceptionally easy to find. If it were me I would seek out the forums where the folks that collect these particular motors and if it is in the shape you say you probably could move it at a reasonable...

Before we get into a bunch of obvious questions let me ask just one. How fresh/clean is your fuel? I had a motor just like that, it almost made me pull my hair out. Turns out my "fresh" fuel although very recently bought was contaminated. Changed it out, drained the carb and lines and readjusted...

They have a ground wire run to them in the fixture. The base is never grounded as in a chassis ground.

Your OMC fuel tank should work unless it is real old.

As a general rule if you are patching the hull I go with the same as the hull thickness. But I am usually welding and I try to make them as inconspicuous as possible.

Or better yet use aluminum rivets with steel mandrels. They pull the rivet down about twice as tight and you will have much lees of them coming out. They are slightly more expensive but worth it. As stated if you are going to do this often get an A frame tool or better yet an air over hydraulic...

Unless he gets a swing away tongue a 16' boat won't go in a 20' garage and the door close with a motor hanging off the back. The good thing is they are not that expensive to add on and pretty easy to do.

Tracker was terrible about wiring diagrams, it was hard to get info for fairly recent models. You better get a decent meter and start tracing.

The fuel coming out when motor is raised is common, the float is out of position and it is flooding. Are you sure that is oil coming out on the foot or is it a combination of oily residue, carbon sooty deposit from the exhaust that has washed out? If so that is common coming out there, and that...

It would be to me IF the 30 was in as good of shape as the one I had. That being said I don't know what you are putting it on so I don't know which is best for you long or short shaft.

I almost exclusively flathead catfish, I put power handles on my 6500s.

You may want to go over it with some very fine grit sandpaper (like 800 grit) on a flat block and see if that polishes it up any without removing any excess material. Make sure and keep it flat and even, do not round the sealing surface.

Nevermind, I don't need a pic of the top of the flywheel, I froze a shot of it on the video. I may be wrong but I think I know what has happened. I think you have to remove that starter assembly from the top of the flywheel and use a crows foot puller to remove that flywheel. I am guessing you...

Can you post a pic of the top side of that flywheel?

I have never seen one like that but they obviously are a combination flywheel/vibration dampner. I am guessing there is a special tool needed to remove it and also guessing you probably used a conventional puller to remove it which probably is what caused your issue. turbotodd probably would be...

I had a late 70's 15 HP Johnson throw the flywheel off WOT and it scared the crap out of me. Upon inspection it did no damage but for the life of me I could not ever find the nut. All it took to repair it was a key and a new nut and I was back in business but let me tell you it will get your...

I am surprised it runs, get that flywheel off and find out what is going on.

I can tell you that once the destibilization starts you can add all the newer higher octane fuel you want it isn't going to reverse the varnish and water in that bad fuel. Trust me on that.

Those were excellent motors in that era.