10' monark flat bottom

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RoKeFiSh

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This is a salvaged Jon boat I purchased off a friend for cheap money. I haven't done as much modifications as many people on here but mostly just repairs. So far I've taken the barnacles and flex seal and more barnacles and paint off the lower part of the hull. Patched what looked like buckshot holes in the transom and minor holes in bottom with jb weld. Sprayed self etching primer also. Covered the inside of transom with flex seal. Made a new transom board out of 2x8's covered with spar varnish and made a deck for the back floor. You can see from the pictures I still need some mods but all in all it is water tight and ready for camo paint and some minor "tweaks". Please comment with any suggestions or whatever. This is my first so any info is helpful.
 
Gut it out and get a old good running jet ski and make a jet jon out of it. Id sit the jet motor down in that little boat and have a blast running shallow rivers and creeks
 
I should probably clarify. This is for that 7 y/o boy in the picture. Mine is a bit bigger.
 
I may have done things just a little bit different. If your not going to power it with an outboard motor the young man should have a great time in his boat.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341328#p341328 said:
lckstckn2smknbrls » 09 Feb 2014, 15:43[/url]"]I may have done things just a little bit different. If your not going to power it with an outboard motor the young man should have a great time in his boat.


Please elaborate! I didn't post the pics for my own self gratification. If I do this again. I would like to know different ways of doing this or if I made any mistakes. Some of what I did was from info I got off the site. But like I said. This is my first Jon boat.

The trolling motor is solely because I didn't want to drop a bunch of money on an outboard and everything that goes along with it. I was trying to keep it simple. It most likely is going to be used primarily for ponds and lakes for my kids and me.
 
I couple layers of exterior grade plywood glued together with water proof glue and screwed together is stronger and less likely to crack then dimensional lumber. Any holes or cracks I'd have welded.
 
Thank you! I considered the plywood option but I had enough 2"x8" to make the back. The holes were tiny and there were maybe 10 on entire boat. I put JB weld on them, sprayed the inside of the transom with flex seal and bonded the spar varnished wood with marine grade adhesive. Then dipped stainless screws in the adhesive and bolted the wood to the transom. After drilling pilot holes so it didn't split. I will probably never put anything bigger than the trolling motor on it.

If this set up leaks or ends up not working. I will definitely try the plywood. But the welding is just something I did not have access to or want to pay to have done.
 
why JB weld?? there are many better items outthere that say flexable, and the spray coating is a joke. I watches a program on TV and it tryed that stuff in many different ways and it fluked all test?? I've used it but I too was not very happy with the results,, As for the transom Plywood is the best way to go. Not PT wood I've got a 1032 and in the mist of making it my main boat with small outrigger's I've also got a 1542 JON and 16 foot pontoon. But age has caught up with me and I don't move very good, I always wear my Lift Jacket always in a 10 footer [-X =D>
 
I think you did a fine job. I've used jb weld in so many applications that it's embarrassing. If done right it will last forever. It'll be a fine first boat for that young man and he'll remember it forever.

"Fish your own trip!"
 

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