14 ft Starcraft Seafarer

[JeffChastain]

mmarz, that first bucking bar on the link. The one with the large offset and the skinny. I spent a majority of my time working with that one. That's what you need. As far as a rivet gun goes, any of them will be fine. The headset you buy is what is important. (The thing you put into the rivet gun that bucks the manufaturers dome head on the rivet) It'll be cupped the fit over the rivet head, and you use them according the size rivet being bucked.

 

[JeffChastain]

mmarz, take a picture of the rivets in your boat, and I'll try to help you figure out which size you need. A picture of the shop head (bucked side) and the dome head of the rivet. Rivets were my job for 3 years in the military. If your boat is like mine, you'll need size 4-3 rivets. blind rivets aren't what you need. As a general rule, the only reason to use blind rivets is if you cannot see or get to the side of the rivet to be bucked. They don't hold as tight over time as solid shank rivets. If you do not want to spring for a pnuematic rivet gun, you could go for Monel rivets, which are interchangable with aluminum. They are a softer metal that can be bucked with a hammer and bucking bar.

Wish you lived closer, I'd drive over and have you install some rivets for me, and toss some beer or plastics your way.

I need to instal 8 rivets and want to do them right because they will be VERY cosmetic (right on the side of the boat)

LonLB, I'd surely get after it for you if you could get it to me. Bucking rivets isn't so hard with a little practice though. Get yourself a couple pieces of scrap aluminum, drill holes in them both, put them in a vice and rivet them together until you get it looking good. That's how we learned in Advanced Individual Training. The main thing is making sure you have the rivet gun straight and secure to the rivet when you buck it. The shop head (backside) doesn't have to be that pretty.

 

[mmarz4evr]

mmarz, take a picture of the rivets in your boat, and I'll try to help you figure out which size you need. A picture of the shop head (bucked side) and the dome head of the rivet. Rivets were my job for 3 years in the military. If your boat is like mine, you'll need size 4-3 rivets. blind rivets aren't what you need. As a general rule, the only reason to use blind rivets is if you cannot see or get to the side of the rivet to be bucked. They don't hold as tight over time as solid shank rivets. If you do not want to spring for a pnuematic rivet gun, you could go for Monel rivets, which are interchangable with aluminum. They are a softer metal that can be bucked with a hammer and bucking bar.

 

[HOUSE]

Hey mmarz,
I used Gluvit to seal a leaking rivet on the inside that was too rusted to remove safely and it has held up really well. The stuff is amazing and sets very strong. Here's a picture of the Gluvit coating a small leaking nut/bolt that was rusted:

As to rivets, I replaced quite a few with a cheap $9.99 rivet tool from Home Depot and sealed them each with a silicone bathroom sealant and they are holding as well. Here's a picture of the first L-bracket that I riveted to the hull (after nervously drilling holes in my boat):

so far so leaks, *knock on aluminum*

-House

 

[JeffChastain]

Go With a size 5 rivet.What you have in your boat are size 4. Generally it's good to go up a size when replacing a rivet in order to ensure a tight fit. You may have to drill the hole out a bit. Get rivets in lengths 3 and 4, as in not sure of the thickness of your aluminum. You should be good to go. If your able to get some scrap aluminum, get some practice in before hammering on your boat.

 

[mmarz4evr]

Go With a size 5 rivet.What you have in your boat are size 4. Generally it's good to go up a size when replacing a rivet in order to ensure a tight fit. You may have to drill the hole out a bit. Get rivets in lengths 3 and 4, as in not sure of the thickness of your aluminum. You should be good to go. If your able to get some scrap aluminum, get some practice in before hammering on your boat.

Thanks Jeff,

I'm also calling Starcraft tomorrow to get the official size and i'll go one up. I trust what you're saying completely, but I can find any company that sizes their rivets 4 or 5. It's usually 1/4 or 3/16- stuff like that.

 

[JeffChastain]

I'm sorry, bro. I'm used to the way we numbered things in the military. I'm having a hard time refreshing my memory, but I do believe a size 5 rivet is the civilians equivalent to 3/16. Our bags of rivets came numbered like XXXXX4-5, with the last two numbers being diameter, and length. I'd bet money that if you call a supplier, they'll know about how the military numbers rivets, and can help you further. I've been searching over technical manuals and the internet trying to find a chart to tell me how the military number system, and the civilian numbers relate, but I'm coming up blank. Sorry man. I tell you what, if I get a free minute at work tomorrow, I will call a couple of suppliers and try to get an answer for you.

 

[mmarz4evr]

I'm sorry, bro. I'm used to the way we numbered things in the military. I'm having a hard time refreshing my memory, but I do believe a size 5 rivet is the civilians equivalent to 3/16. Our bags of rivets came numbered like XXXXX4-5, with the last two numbers being diameter, and length. I'd bet money that if you call a supplier, they'll know about how the military numbers rivets, and can help you further. I've been searching over technical manuals and the internet trying to find a chart to tell me how the military number system, and the civilian numbers relate, but I'm coming up blank. Sorry man. I tell you what, if I get a free minute at work tomorrow, I will call a couple of suppliers and try to get an answer for you.

Jeff- Thanks for you all your help with this. I went out there this morning and I believe 1/4 is the next size up from what I have. I purchased solid aluminum rivets on Ebay and went with size 1/4 x 7/8. I'm thinking th length should be fine because i have to get through the hull and a rib. If its a tad long I should still be ok. So now I have to find a gun and practice before going live. I'll keep you posted. Have a great Thanksgiving.

 

[JeffChastain]

Alright, I checked for you today too, and yes, the 1/4th is what you'll need. Also, don't worry too much if the rivets are too long. I don't reckon you care too much if the shop head on the rivet is perfect. But, if they are way too long, you can just grab a sander, and sand the excess lenght off. Hope it works out good for you. Post pictures when you buck your rivets!

 

[mmarz4evr]

Alright, I checked for you today too, and yes, the 1/4th is what you'll need. Also, don't worry too much if the rivets are too long. I don't reckon you care too much if the shop head on the rivet is perfect. But, if they are way too long, you can just grab a sander, and sand the excess lenght off. Hope it works out good for you. Post pictures when you buck your rivets!

Great- Do you suggest an air hammer vs. pneumatic rivet gun. Those guns look like they are designed more for a blind rivet vs a solid- the attachements have small hole down the center. If you can send me an example of a the type of gun I should buy it would be of great help. That's basically the last thing I have to order. Thanks!

 

[JeffChastain]

What you need is an air hammer. I have a bad habit of calling an air hammer "rivet gun". One like this will do the job just fine. Also, you'll want some of these. It is acceptable to buck the rivet with a flat set, but it is a bit harder to keep from pounding up the aluminum you're riveting into.

 

[mmarz4evr]

What you need is an air hammer. I have a bad habit of calling an air hammer "rivet gun". One like this will do the job just fine. Also, you'll want some of these. It is acceptable to buck the rivet with a flat set, but it is a bit harder to keep from pounding up the aluminum you're riveting into.

that's perfect information. thanks very much. just need to practice this winter. lol

 

[mmarz4evr]

Anybody have a suggestion on what type of wood I should use to replace my benches? I can't really make out what they used originally. My plan is to cover the benches with 3 coats of Spar and possibly carpet. Thanks!

 

[mmarz4evr]

mmarz, take a picture of the rivets in your boat, and I'll try to help you figure out which size you need. A picture of the shop head (bucked side) and the dome head of the rivet. Rivets were my job for 3 years in the military. If your boat is like mine, you'll need size 4-3 rivets. blind rivets aren't what you need. As a general rule, the only reason to use blind rivets is if you cannot see or get to the side of the rivet to be bucked. They don't hold as tight over time as solid shank rivets. If you do not want to spring for a pnuematic rivet gun, you could go for Monel rivets, which are interchangable with aluminum. They are a softer metal that can be bucked with a hammer and bucking bar.

Hey Jeff- Happy New Year. Hope all is well. Quick Question for you- I tried a practice Rivet the other day- i have a 1/4 x 7/8 solid aluminum rivet. When i attempted to buck the Rivet, it was a lot tougher to get it to compress than i anticipated. I had the gun set with pretty good pressure, and it started to compress but I thought it should happen faster with less effort than it did. I'm thinking a. the rivet is to thick for the gun to effectively compress it. or b. the rivet was way too long for it to compress correctly. It was two thin pieces of aluminum angle and did not nearly give me a 3x ratio, The rivet was probably 5 or 6x as long as the pieces I was riveting together. Should I try this process again with a thinner shorter rivet? 3/16