16' Arkansas Traveler

[Anth]

New user here, well not really I've been lurking on this site for years admiring everybodys work. Finally took the plunge myself and picked up this old girl last week. No ID on the hull but the paperwork says she's a 1963 Arkansas Traveler - 16x42 (actually it's 15'11" x 43"). As of now the plans include
- front and rear casting decks
- new transom
- new paint
- floor and livewell
- complete trailer rebuild.
Some pics of as i got her

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Long ways to go, but i know there is a lot of good information and people on this site to help get me through it.

 

[Anth]

So I thought this looked......not factory. PO said he had 50hp on this boat and thats why he added the supports.

 

[CSL]

Nice boat! I've got a 14' 1960 AT that I have been very happy with. Solid boats.

 

[kfa4303]

Cool find. I have a '59, 14ft. AT myself. Good luck on the resto. This link may help.

https://www.fiberglassics.com/library/Arkansas_traveler

 

[Anth]

Nice boat! I've got a 14' 1960 AT that I have been very happy with. Solid boats.

I agree with the solid boats, hull material is really thick and after all these years it looks like I may only have 6 leaky rivets.

Thanks for the link kfa4303 some really cool info there.

 

[Anth]

Got a little of the demo completed this weekend.
Before


After



I was about one cut off wheel away from getting that transom out. I’ve replaced one in a 16’ deep v starcraft before and know how fun they can be. This one should be pretty straight forward. As I don’t plan on using a whole lot of wood in this build I think I’m going to spring for some marine grade ply to rebuild the transom. I’m thinking two layers of ½” should do the trick with the balance being used to support the existing short deck. This will give the trolling motor mount a good backing. Things I’d like to get completed this week include;
- Dress up the areas where I cut off extra supports / side counsel
- Leak test
- Rebuck / replace leaky rivets / screws.
- Leak test again
- Rebuild transom

 

[kfa4303]

she cleaned up nicely. Sounds like you've got a plan too. Can't wait for the updates. Any ideas on a motor?

 

[Anth]

Thanks. As for the motor she'll borrow my big tins 8hp kicker until I find something that suits her better. From what I’ve gathered this boat/transom should be able to support a 15hp (no plate telling me otherwise) with no problem. I’ll be redoing the transom with 2 pieces of ½” marine ply laminated together and then stiffen it up with a horizontal brace and side/transom cap ties. I’d love to do a 25jet so I don’t have to worry when I hit the rivers, but with a baby due in May I don’t want to separate myself with that kind of money. So she’ll sport the 8hp tiller until I can get my hands on remote 15 – 25ish.

 

[bulrid8]

I know my 14' AT is rated for 18hp. So the 16' may be rated up to 25hp.

 

[Anth]

Got a little work done today between snow squalls, transom support cut out and transom removed. I do not believe this is the original transom; it is two pieces of ¾” plywood poorly laminated together. It still feels really solid but if it wasn’t 20 degrees I bet it would be saturated because it is HEAVY.





I’m thinking two pieces of ½” for the new transom should be sufficient for a 15-25hp but would appreciate any input. Quick question on the marine ply, will the wood accept a stain or a sealer? I really don’t want to paint it because it seems like the paint eventually fails and flakes off.

Thanks

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Whatever thickness the old transom was is what I'd put back in.

 

[rscottp]

Transoms seem to be minimum 1 1/4", Mine is 1 1/2". I would do at least 1 1/4" if I were you.

 

[Anth]

Thanks to all who responded to my transom question. I have decided to go with two pieces of 3/4" instead of the 1/2". I got a little work done on the boat this weekend, I didn’t get all the things I wanted to get accomplished but then again I tackled some things that weren’t on that list to begin with so all and all I’m satisfied I guess. Demo is 100%, and I washed the inside of the boat like 20 times to clean out all of the drains.



Once I got everything flowing right I was able to perform a leak test – which resulted in only 4 leaky rivets. I’ll rebuck these and then hit all rivets and seams with gulvit. I also replaced a good handful of bolts and nuts that were covered with silicone with rivets and 5200.






One thing I noticed before buying this boat was that this rib was broken. The PO had welded it back up and everything looks pretty good, I reused an existing steering counsel bracket to bridge these two welds and re-installed with rivets.





Lastly I tackled this conduit; It looks like the PO installed it from front to back on both sides with bolts. I don’t know what purpose it served, but I removed it from the starboard side and added it to the port side, I’ll use this to hide my wiring .



Goals for this week included getting the transom installed, rebucking my leaky rivets, 2nd leak test, installing backer board on existing casting deck, begin prepping for paint.

 

[Anth]

Been a while since my last post, some family stuff has kept me busy so not a whole lot of progress on the boat. I was finally able to get some time in this weekend and got a few things accomplished. I was able to finish building the transom, and by the end of this weekend was able to get it installed. The transom ended up being two layers of ¾” marine ply laminated together with 3 coats of spar urethane. I used 5200 to seal up the edge of the transom.


I was able to clean up and re-use the existing hardware (handles and tie down locations) although I used new stainless steel nuts and bolts on the handles.


Before I installed the transom I cleaned up the transom aluminum as there was some corrosion on there and then applied a coat of self etching primer inside and out. There were a few additional holes in the transom from the PO and I filled them in will some solid rivets and 5200.

I also got my front deck backing and counsel backing cut and coated with 3 coats of spar urethane. Lastly I was able to apply a couple coats of gulvit to all the seams / rivets. Lots of work to go but I think at this point it should be seaworthy (once all the 5200 / gulvit dries), and since the lakes are now open I plan on fishing it every chance I get.

This week I’m hoping to get the floor foam cut up, and floor framing completed. This is material I have salvaged from different job sites. Hopefully I can find some decent aluminum sheets at the local scrap yard to get working on the floor. I would really like to do the decks and floor in aluminum but buying new is cost prohibitive. There is also quite a bit of work that needs to be done on the trailer so I might try and tackle some of that as well.

Until next time

 

[Anth]

Well didn’t get as far this week as I would have liked to but I got a few things knocked off the list. I was able to complete the center storage lids and install them.

Install new trailer lights and re-paint the fenders, I will need to finish up wiring on the trailer as I threw it together to go fishing.

I also installed some steel angle braces to the trailer. The existing tube supports are pretty rotted thru so I am adding some steel angle to reinforce. I’ve got two more pieces already cut up and will install later this week.

The most satisfying item was taking it out for its maiden voyage; boat didn’t leak 1 drop, and is surprisingly stable. Unfortunately we didn’t catch 1 fish but this was more of a shakedown run in which I learned a few things that I will need to correct, but all in due time.
The most important thing is that it floats and I can now get to fishing. The rest of this build will take place between fishing trips so hopefully the progress doesn’t stall too much (don’t know if I can go much slower than I already am). I originally wanted to do the floors and deck of this project in aluminum, but I’m not having any luck finding materials at the local scrap yards so it looks like wood it is. I currently have aluminum material to do all of the framing, and the plan is now to replace wood as sheet aluminum becomes available. The goal is to try and get the trailer buttoned up this week, and also the front deck.

 

[Rat]

Great job! I really like the simple approach, unfortunately I have a genetic pre-disposition to over complicate builds! :mrgreen: I really like the diamond tread on the transom too, a nice detail for sure.

 

[pitts101]

Looks great!

 

[Anth]

Thanks for the positive comments guys. I was able to get a few things done this week, mainly the framing of the front deck.


Eventually there will be two large hatches up front basically between the frame members to allow access to storage underneath. Needed to get to fishing so the cut outs will have to wait till next week. The seat post backing was a little tricky to fasten down because I didn’t want to use screws (bad experience with them working their way out that I don’t want to repeat) so I came up with this detail that I hope should work out.

I was able to install ½ of the floor and foam. I wasn’t real happy with the way this portion of the floor turned out because I used the balance of the deck plywood.


This left me with 1 straight edge on a curved hull so that side is about ¾” of an inch from the hull at the widest point. I come from a family of painters not carpenters so I guess it will have to do, that and I couldn’t throw away nearly half a sheet of plywood because it was just short. With 1 more piece I should be able to do the back deck and balance of floor. The underside of the plywood has 3 coats for spar and the top will receive 2 coats of Rustoleum 10x deck stain in a color close to the transom/seats.
Terrible weather this week will make it tough to get much done but I’d like to finish the front deck and floor, install the front counsel and fish finder.

Until next time.