16' Starcraft winter project **finished Pics page5**

[LonLB]

I saw this stick steering while checking some stuff out https://www.trackerboats.com/boat/?boat=3321 thought it was pretty cool unfortunately it costs $250.

I've considered that setup too.

Normally the way they are used is the steering is on the port side of the boat, and the shifter/throttle is on the starboard side. Usually in a narrow boat, so you can reach both of them while sitting in the middle of the boat.


My idea was to put the shifter, and the stick steer on the same side of the boat, but use a hot foot throttle.


Some of the bigger tiller motors have a handle long enough to be able to work around that splashwell. Or at least close to it. The splash well could be lowered, like I am planning on mine, then build a rear deck over some of it, and put a seat base on it for driving the tilling. Then a the seat and it's post would insert right into the base, with no pedestal.

The only thing I don't like about tiller steer is if you fish from the front, you have to go the whole length of the boat from engine to bow. Which isn't a big deal unless you have a couple other guys or kids fishing with you.

If you do stick with a single console, and need a steering setup, there is a rotary system sold for $106 and change.

 

[stone4140]

Alright I almost killed my rotozip today using a wire wheel in an attempt to get the paint off. Must not be the right application for that tool cause it smoked out pretty bad. And the electric angle grinder with a sanding wheel was too aggressive and took metal of. The wire wheel worked ok till the rotozip smoked but I could see myself being out there till March using that method. So my next step is to try a 3m large area paint remover on a a pneumatic grinder or try some paint stripper. Paint stripper would be my first choice if it wasn't so darn cold out. I just can't see it working well when its 25 degrees. And except for the citrus stuff which never seems to work well the rest of them need atleast some ventilation. So I may attempt to warm up the garage apply it then leave while it works and come back and scrape. Any better ideas I am open.

 

[stone4140]

I made good progress with a 3m style stripper disc. I picked it up at home depot along with a cupped wire brush both for the right angle grinder. The Norton stripper works really fast but can take the rivets down with the paint. I got what is done in the pick done in about 30-40 minutes. Ill go back with the cupped wire brush and clean up the rivets and grooves. But I figure if I ever can get a couple 4-5 hours of work done I should be pretty close to getting all the paint off. Lets hope the wife takes the son to the in-laws for a couple hours this weekend I posted the link for the stripper disc I was very impressed with it.

https://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5y...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 

[stone4140]

Stripping paint in the winter in a single car garage is a great way to spend a day :---) After a couple hours of work we were able to get down to either bare metal or primer or in some cases paint but very well adhered paint. If it was summer I think I would go to bare metal everywhere with stripper but wire wheeling an old boat somewhat freaks me out because i have read they put a whole lotta lead in old marine paint and I have a kid and a pregnant wife. So I spent a good part of the day cleaning after as well. I Think I am going to replace the transom before priming and painting. The transom is full of so many screws and bolts that I feel like it would be pointless to prep it and then go at getting the transom out after. I also am planning on taking the splashwell out not only to make getting the transom out easier but I may just keep it out and put a casting deck in that area. Any see any problems with doing that???

 

[LonLB]

Stripping paint in the winter in a single car garage is a great way to spend a day :---) After a couple hours of work we were able to get down to either bare metal or primer or in some cases paint but very well adhered paint. If it was summer I think I would go to bare metal everywhere with stripper but wire wheeling an old boat somewhat freaks me out because i have read they put a whole lotta lead in old marine paint and I have a kid and a pregnant wife. So I spent a good part of the day cleaning after as well. I Think I am going to replace the transom before priming and painting. The transom is full of so many screws and bolts that I feel like it would be pointless to prep it and then go at getting the transom out after. I also am planning on taking the splashwell out not only to make getting the transom out easier but I may just keep it out and put a casting deck in that area. Any see any problems with doing that???

I was stripping mine yesterday too...
I'm using paint stripper, and a hand held wire brush with good results.

As for the splash well.......With no splash well you will get water on your deck. Also, I would double check if you have to have at least some, for when the motor is tilted all the way up.

It IS a structural part to the boat too. Keep that in mind.
Now with all that said, I think it would be possible to remove it, or shrink it a BUNCH. You would have to build the framing for your deck in a way that it adds the structural support to your boat, that you lost when removing the splashwell.

I'm going to keep mine in place, but lower it about 4" Then run a deck over some of it.
Eventually I'll add some splash guards so any water splashing won't be a concern.

 

[stone4140]

[/quote]
I was stripping mine yesterday too...
I'm using paint stripper, and a hand held wire brush with good results.

As for the splash well.......With no splash well you will get water on your deck. Also, I would double check if you have to have at least some, for when the motor is tilted all the way up.

It IS a structural part to the boat too. Keep that in mind.
Now with all that said, I think it would be possible to remove it, or shrink it a BUNCH. You would have to build the framing for your deck in a way that it adds the structural support to your boat, that you lost when removing the splashwell.

I'm going to keep mine in place, but lower it about 4" Then run a deck over some of it.
Eventually I'll add some splash guards so any water splashing won't be a concern.[/quote]




Ya I probably should have tried the stripper but I think I got it to a point where it will still look good once prepped primed and painted. I'm going to get some gasket remover spray ( I read a post on another site where a guy used it to take paint of with success) and hand sand any spots that are anything but smooth. I don't think I would try that for a whole boat but I think it will work well for the few small areas I want to touch up. I think the idea of lowering the splashwell and decking over part of it is a good one. That looks like what they do on the newer boats. I have to get the darn boat flipped back over so i can asses the situation better. I'm looking forward to getting the whole transom area cleaned out. There is years of screws and just general crap that has been attached that I want to get patched up. Do you have to replace your transom? Your boat looks newer and in better shape..

 

[stone4140]

I did a little boat stuff shopping today (the only enjoyable shopping). Its amazing all of the things you can get from harbor freight for 20 bucks. But I also spent a little cash on a lead paint test kit from home depot. I know most people probably don't worry about that stuff but I figured I'd throw it out there. 30 bucks comes with 6 test kits. I was pretty pumped that my boat paint was lead negative. So now I am going to sand,grind, and make dust as much as I see fit. If anyone has a boat pre-70's and kids around you may wanna think about getting a kit. Other than that it was -7 here today so any motivation to work on the hull seeped out of my frozen fingers.

 

[stone4140]

Has anyone tried rustoleum bare metal marine primer?? I'm thinking about using it because it can be applied on bare metal or paint and I have some of both. It also says it can be used as a top coat. My only concern is it says for above the waterline only. I assume as long as the boat won't be docked for long periods of time i should be ok. I also would rather roll and brush on than spray. Anyone have any experience or thoughts?

https://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=9

 

[stone4140]

Got most of the boat stripped. There is some paint and primer on the hull still but it is all very smooth so i'm not to worried about getting every spot bare. I ordered rustoleom bare metal marine primer. I bought two quarts for 30 bucks w/ shipping. I hope it works well. I've never been disappointing with any of there other products. Home depot was selling a rustoleum latex aluminum primer but I wasn't sure how confident I would be with that. Don't really know enough about it. There are some fairly large dents and one spot I put into the photo below where the hull must have hit a rock and made a long crease. Does not appear to have broken through. But I bought some aluminum epoxy patch I hope to put it on and smooth the appearance of it. I'll continue to prep the surface for primer over the next few days. -15 degree wind chills today. I always pick the nice winters for projects.

 

[stone4140]

Got the hull primed yesterday minus the transom. I am going to wait until I replace it to prime and paint it. Used the roll and tip method and it seemed to work very well. I was happy with the application of the rustoleum. It went on very nice despite the cold weather. It dried fairly quick as well. A couple tops coats and I hope to get her flipped back over so i can start some "real" work. The process so far has been a little uninteresting and a whole lot dirty. Priming felt pretty good though..

 

[LonLB]

Did you lay down some zinc chromate first?

What kind of primer did you use?

 

[stone4140]

Did you lay down some zinc chromate first?

What kind of primer did you use?

I used rustoleum bare metal marine primer. It is intended for priming aluminum hulls above the waterline but I used it all over. I trailer my boat so I'm thinking it won't be an issue. I looked at the chemicals in it and it did not have zinc chromate in it but Strontium Zinc Phosphosilicate which from what I can figure out by way of google is something that has a similar effect. Now if I am wrong about that please let me know. I wish I would have paid more attention in chemistry. .The link for the stuff is a couple posts up.

 

[LonLB]

Where did you get it, and for how much $$$$

 

[stone4140]

Where did you get it, and for how much $$$$

Off of amazon. I bought two quarts because it was eligible for super saver if i bought 25$ worth of product. So It was 31 with free delivery for 2 quarts. I used almost a whole quart which surprised me. So i am glad i got the second for the transom and the splashwell and other stuff inside the boat. I figured this time of year it would be easier to roll than spray on. And with how it came out as long as it holds I think it was a good choice. I put the order info below.

Amazon.com items (Sold by Amazon.com, LLC) :

2 Rust-Oleum 207016 Marine M... $14.57 2 $29.14

Shipped via UPS


--------------------------------------------------------------------
Item Subtotal: $29.14
Shipping and handling: $8.41
Super Saver Discount: $-8.41
Sales Tax Collected: $2.34
Total: $31.48

 

[LonLB]

I think I'm going to try that primer also...

I'm hoping to have mine stripped every where except the bottom this weekend. I'm actually working on it now too, but needed to come inside for some fresh air... :shock:

 

[bulldog]

That paint looks very clean!! Good job! =D>

 

[stone4140]

I have been doing some research on paints. I came across this Sherwin Williams paint I thought was interesting. It is an exterior latex. I was a bit weary when I saw it was latex. They say it is their most durable and longest lasting exterior paint. Even more than their oil based. I thought it was interesting that it is strictly exterior as well. Their oil based paints were interior/exterior. Cool thing about it is it can be applied in 35 degree weather. Which is still higher than we are looking at for awhile but could be easily attained in the garage with a heater. I imagine it has less odor,would apply easier and would clean up better than oil as well. Just not sure how I feel about latex. Being stuck working in an attached garage in the middle of winter presents issues that tend to lead me looking at things I wouldn't bother with in summer. Anyone have any thoughts on or experience with Sherwin Williams A-100. I attached a link

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/products/a100_exterior_acrylic_latex/

 

[Critter]

I have been doing some research on paints. I came across this Sherwin Williams paint I thought was interesting. It is an exterior latex. I was a bit weary when I saw it was latex. They say it is their most durable and longest lasting exterior paint. Even more than their oil based. I thought it was interesting that it is strictly exterior as well. Their oil based paints were interior/exterior. Cool thing about it is it can be applied in 35 degree weather. Which is still higher than we are looking at for awhile but could be easily attained in the garage with a heater. I imagine it has less odor,would apply easier and would clean up better than oil as well. Just not sure how I feel about latex. Being stuck working in an attached garage in the middle of winter presents issues that tend to lead me looking at things I wouldn't bother with in summer. Anyone have any thoughts on or experience with Sherwin Williams A-100. I attached a link

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/products/a100_exterior_acrylic_latex/

I work on boat launches including building the docks/piers for them. I have NEVER found a latex paint that stands up to the water for long including a Sherwin Williams paint that I tried a few years ago. I don't know if it is the same product as what your thinking of using. If you use it and it works please let us know.

 

[stone4140]

I ended up using rustoleum gloss and added a hardener. Happy with the results other than a few sags that will have to be sanded and fixed come some better weather.

 

[WantABigBass]

It looks good. I like this boat and can't wait to see your progress. Keep the updates coming.