16' Starcraft winter project **finished Pics page5**

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I'm starting to get ahead of myself but I am thinking about steering systems. Currently It has the cable and pulley system which I don't mind. But I also would not mind upgrading to uflex or something like it if i could do it for a reasonable price. After doing the research it looks like I would need a basic kit $129, a Transom mount (clamp block) $70 and an engine adapter (clevis) $30 and a steering wheel $40. And after all that i would still need to adapt it to my 60's Johnson. Anyone have any pics of them doing this or advice. $300 could be used in other areas rather than steering. The old setup did not come out that easy as it was epoxied into the old dash and took a beating coming out. I was hoping to get into a new setup for under 200 but it doesn't look possible.
 
I was lucky enough to win $200 on the Superbowl. I just picked a square for 5 bucks and now I am 2 boats seats richer. So now I can dedicate my boat seat fund to getting uflex steering once I get to that point. Not that I am even remotely close to needing seats either but I needed to spend the money on something before it turned into diaper and going out to dinner money :D
 

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Very nice seats.

The seat budget is going to kill me...If my boat turns out like I hope and plan it will look nice, and I want nice seats to go with it.....But that stinks because you can save alot of money on boat seats....When you do the appearance usually goes down though.
 
LonLB said:
Very nice seats.

The seat budget is going to kill me...If my boat turns out like I hope and plan it will look nice, and I want nice seats to go with it.....But that stinks because you can save alot of money on boat seats....When you do the appearance usually goes down though.

Ya I could have got three or four decent seats for the price of these two. But I am going to do what I did on my last boat. I will use these two seats for when I'm underway and for fishing. I just use the kind of post setups that you allow you to switch out quickly from base to base. Then I will just pick up a couple cheaper fold down seats for when I have more than two people in the boat which isn't two often. I like only enough seats on the boat for how many people are on board to save room. My wife wanted me to put a lounge folding seat on the boat but that would have killed the budget and killed to much room as well. When its time for you to buy check walmart.com they had a great looking seat on there but not the color choices I was looking for they also had a post setup for a good price. Free shipping to store as well. . Also Gander mt had the ones I bought on sale for $89 I have a store by me but they have free shipping to your house on all orders.
 
I came across this advertisement for this starcraft that is basically the same as mine. Its vintage but they have a pretty nice setup idea. If the back seats could be quickly converted into a casting platform and a platform was added up front it would be a great setup. I have always thought center consoles were cool. I have never fished from one so I am not sure if it would be of value but it has the wheels turning. For any of you guys who have pre-70's boats fiberglassics website has factory spec sheets for hp rating, boat weight and dimensions for most boat makers. That's how I found this I also found that my exact model takes up to 85hp. Now that would be a fun ride.
 

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I got the boat on the trailer so I could start working on the interior.Luckily the tongue was only bolted on so I took it off so I could still close the garage door. First off will be the transom. But I'm thinking ahead and am looking for any ideas for some problems I will have later on. It looks like it hit something probably a dock and it ripped off the rear transom corner bracket and the trim on the side of the gunnel. I have some ideas but I would like to hear some different ones. Also this boat was closed bow at one point now there is just a thin gunnel on the bow with no interior trim. Once again any ideas are welcome. The whole gunnel is whooped and I probably will carpet what I can. I like having a wide gunnel so i can mount some down riggers so tearing it off would be a last resort.
 

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Got the splashwell out and many of the transom bolts. I'm considering leaving the splashwell out and putting a casting deck in its place.
 

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I just got my splash well out yesterday too 8)

If you are set on leaving it out, make sure that the casting deck ties into the sides of the boat, all the way to the top of the boat. That splash well adds a bunch of strength to the boat.

Me personally I'm going to leave mine, but I'm going to lower it about 4". I'm also going to shorten the splash well itself about 8-10". I need to be able to operate a tiller handle, but I also want a small deck.

I'm lowering it so I can build a small deck over a big portion of it.
 
LonLB said:
I just got my splash well out yesterday too 8)

If you are set on leaving it out, make sure that the casting deck ties into the sides of the boat, all the way to the top of the boat. That splash well adds a bunch of strength to the boat.

Me personally I'm going to leave mine, but I'm going to lower it about 4". I'm also going to shorten the splash well itself about 8-10". I need to be able to operate a tiller handle, but I also want a small deck.

I'm lowering it so I can build a small deck over a big portion of it.

Ya man I've been watching your other posts and I saw you were going with a tiller. I am as excited to see yours almost as much as my own. I wish you were farther ahead so I could see what you are going to do with your splashwell and deck. I can't visualize what you are describing but it sounds about what I want to do. I kept the splashwell and may utilize it in some fashion.I just have to start and see where it goes. I got the transom wood out as well. I'm thinking if I built the deck below the top drains I could either reuse the splashwell and modify it if needed or fabricate a new one. Definetly would tie the deck into the sides and run supports up into the gunwale. I wish I could find those seats they use on the newer boats that fold down into the deck and then become part of the casting platform. I've looked but it looks like they only come with boats and are not after market.
 

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I got the transom boards glued and epoxied on both sides.I kinda like the way the plywood looks epoxied so I may just spar varnish over it and keep the wood look. Maybe one day Ill actually follow the temperature recommendations on something. I have found with both paint and epoxy that I need to plan on the material running in the colder weather. For me its worth it because I am trying to make sure I finish by a certain time period but someday I'd like to have a project that is a summer project :D But for now Ill just sand and repair when the time comes.I definitely plan on buying a gravity fed paint sprayer and a pneumatic rivet gun. I want to touch up the paint on the sides and then put 2-3 more coats on. in warmer weather.I think i would have only painted the bottom in the winter and would wait for spring next time to paint any vertical surfaces. That way i could have got the boat flipped sanded painted and turned back over to work. I have found that as long as the surface is horizontal epoxy and oil based paint are fine in cooler weather. I ordered Gluvit and I am hoping a quart is going to be enough. After the Gluvit is applied Ill but both transom boards on and get started decking. I also scored a whole bunch of aluminum in the form of ladders. So I have changed my plan of using wood decking. If it works well it will have been cheaper and longer lasting than the wood. I got a 35' and a 10' ladder for only 30 bucks.
 

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I'm hoping that a combo of being stored in the garage, or with a cover when outside, will make mine last. I only used spar varnish. No resin of any kind.

I think it'll be fine. My dad used el cheapo plywood, thompson's coated it, then painted it for the floors and transom of a boat, and used it for 20 years...When he sold it, all the wood was in great shape still.

Boat is coming together nicely. We are in about the same spot again today. Finished my cutting my boards and coated them with Spar.
 
Stone, I have heard a lot of good things about Gluvit...I heard its a lot easier to work with than Steelflex. I just ordered mine from the Amazon Marketplace just a quart. I have a question though I see you plan on using aluminum for the floor. Do you plan on applying the Gluvit to the floor and then rivet the frame to the floor or apply Gluvit over your rivets?
 
LonLB said:
I'm hoping that a combo of being stored in the garage, or with a cover when outside, will make mine last. I only used spar varnish. No resin of any kind.

I think it'll be fine. My dad used el cheapo plywood, thompson's coated it, then painted it for the floors and transom of a boat, and used it for 20 years...When he sold it, all the wood was in great shape still.

Boat is coming together nicely. We are in about the same spot again today. Finished my cutting my boards and coated them with Spar.

Well one of the reasons I epoxied it was I had the epoxy laying around. Before my son was born I had a great idea of building a small boat. Long story short I framed out the small boat and then asked myself what the hell I was going to do with it when I was done. After that thought I then decided to stop and Modify and deck the boat I already had. Two good things came of it. I had good clark craft epoxy left over and I had acquired some nice tools!! I have been thinking though what I am going to do for the rest of the plywood. I won't order more epoxy. Are you going to carpet the boat? If so how do you plan on sealing the wood. I used Thompsons on my last boat and when the floors got wet the plywood bubbled in one spot for a couple days till it dried out. I blame that more on the plywood than the thompsons. It was exterior grade but must not have been good stuff.
 
atuck593 said:
Stone, I have heard a lot of good things about Gluvit...I heard its a lot easier to work with than Steelflex. I just ordered mine from the Amazon Marketplace just a quart. I have a question though I see you plan on using aluminum for the floor. Do you plan on applying the Gluvit to the floor and then rivet the frame to the floor or apply Gluvit over your rivets?

Well for the floor itself I am using plywood. For any framing that is involved I will be using aluminum ladders (And Lon you called your dad el cheapo :) ) I plan on doing the gluvit first on every seam and rivet I can find below the waterline. Then i will frame the back and front decks. If I have to make any rivets or holes for fasteners I will use 3m5200 to seal them back up. I am kinda kicking myself for not just ordering a gallon of Gluvit I paid 50 with shipping for a quart and for 120 I could have got a gallon with free shipping. My reason for saying that is I don't plan on having any gluvit left over after the initial application. So any holes will be filled will 3m or JBweld. Take anything I say with a grain of salt because this is my first tin project. I have yet to lay a rivet in anything other than the gutters on my house..
 
stone4140 said:
LonLB said:
I'm hoping that a combo of being stored in the garage, or with a cover when outside, will make mine last. I only used spar varnish. No resin of any kind.

I think it'll be fine. My dad used el cheapo plywood, thompson's coated it, then painted it for the floors and transom of a boat, and used it for 20 years...When he sold it, all the wood was in great shape still.

Boat is coming together nicely. We are in about the same spot again today. Finished my cutting my boards and coated them with Spar.

Well one of the reasons I epoxied it was I had the epoxy laying around. Before my son was born I had a great idea of building a small boat. Long story short I framed out the small boat and then asked myself what the hell I was going to do with it when I was done. After that thought I then decided to stop and Modify and deck the boat I already had. Two good things came of it. I had good clark craft epoxy left over and I had acquired some nice tools!! I have been thinking though what I am going to do for the rest of the plywood. I won't order more epoxy. Are you going to carpet the boat? If so how do you plan on sealing the wood. I used Thompsons on my last boat and when the floors got wet the plywood bubbled in one spot for a couple days till it dried out. I blame that more on the plywood than the thompsons. It was exterior grade but must not have been good stuff.



Ya, I'm going to carpet it.
I'm going to soak it with Thompsons, and then paint it with Rustoleum. I know that's not the popular practice, but like I mentioned I've seen that last YEARS using cheap pine plywood. I'm using exterior grade Fir plywood.

I would never glass the flooring, like is popular practice. No matter how hard you try to seal, it seems like it always lets a little bit of water in. But, doesn't let any water out.
 
I got yah... I kind of figured that the aluminum was just for the framing and then put plywood over top. I think I will use the Gluvit first and then rivet my frame in like you plan on doing. Word of caution though (not from experience but through research) I would use the Gluvit sparingly and only where you really need it. I did some research on here and a few guys have posed that a quart was just enough to get through all the rivets and supports on a 14ft boat. The best of luck with your build I will be watching to see how it comes along...
 
Looking good so far. It looks like we have the same boat. I will be following your thread looking for ideas.
 

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Jwalk721 said:
Looking good so far. It looks like we have the same boat. I will be following your thread looking for ideas.

If you have anymore shots of your boat I'd like to see them. Especially the splashwell area or any decking if there is any. Its tough to see in the pic how your boat is setup..
 
Got some work done this weekend. Rub rails removed,flimsy bow gunnel removed, Some dents pounded out, the rivets and seams wire wheeled and prepped for gluvit, and the side storage walls removed. I'm thinking about utilizing the brackets that supported the side storage compartment into that back decking. The brackets are at a good height and run a good length of the boat. I will also use the brackets to support the gunnel and give it more strength. I think then I am going to run carpet from the underside of the outside of the gunnel and wrap it around and then down the inside of the hull . My rubrail was broken and i think this will be the cheapest and best looking option. Then i have to fabricate probably out of plywood a new bow gunnell and front cap to mount a trolling motor.
 

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