1660 Mod V Hull Project

[JigglyJohnson]

Shoot. I used pop rivets. I didn't understand the difference initially. How bad is the difference? I'm coating all the external ones in 5200.


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[onthewater102]

You really can't get away from the pop rivets attaching to the ribs, so you're good there. If you can use solid rivets for the aluminum connections that do not mate up to the hull ribs they will be sturdier.

The sealant you pictured specifically says its "Silicone Free" in the 1st line on the backside so you're good to go - it's a polyurethane based goop.

 

[JigglyJohnson]

You really can't get away from the pop rivets attaching to the ribs, so you're good there. If you can use solid rivets for the aluminum connections that do not mate up to the hull ribs they will be sturdier.

The sealant you pictured specifically says its "Silicone Free" in the 1st line on the backside so you're good to go - it's a polyurethane based goop.

Thanks buddy!


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[onthewater102]

The issue with blind rivets (pop rivets) is they're hollow so they don't hold up to sheer forces nearly as well as a solid rivet would. I built my boat using stainless blind rivets for their enhanced sheer strength (vs. aluminum blind rivets), which I could get away with as I'm never out on salt water, but stainless & aluminum react in the presence of salt water so that isn't really the best solution. I had used aluminum blind rivets initially but they quickly failed and I ended up replacing them all.

Any future projects I take on will definitely use solid aluminum rivets wherever possible, tooling to use an air compressor air-hammer to set them is very inexpensive.

 

[JigglyJohnson]

The issue with blind rivets (pop rivets) is they're hollow so they don't hold up to sheer forces nearly as well as a solid rivet would. I built my boat using stainless blind rivets for their enhanced sheer strength (vs. aluminum blind rivets), which I could get away with as I'm never out on salt water, but stainless & aluminum react in the presence of salt water so that isn't really the best solution. I had used aluminum blind rivets initially but they quickly failed and I ended up replacing them all.

Any future projects I take on will definitely use solid aluminum rivets wherever possible, tooling to use an air compressor air-hammer to set them is very inexpensive.

How bad did they fail? Should I be replacing these right away?


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[onthewater102]

The ones I had fail were in the bracketing I made to support my trolling motor. They failed within ~2 months. They had (comparably) a lot of weight jostling around, especially while trailering the boat.

 

[JigglyJohnson]

The ones I had fail were in the bracketing I made to support my trolling motor. They failed within ~2 months. They had (comparably) a lot of weight jostling around, especially while trailering the boat.

If I get two months out of it, I can live with that. That will get me to the end of the year. It's only supporting 125lbs of ******* [emoji851].

I finished the floor framing, using all aluminium pop rivets, but at least they're 3/16 and not 1/8. I 5200'd most the rivets and seams. Once that cures, I'm putting in a 4x8 plywood sheet for the rest of the year.

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[JigglyJohnson]

So I need to get out for some fall bass before the end of the season. I plan to continue the project throughout the winter but for now I stuck to what I need to fish. Today I screwed down a sheet of plywood and installed my seat, the trolling motor foot control and a cup holder. I'm gonna screw in a little Tupperware container before I head out for miscellaneous storage because righty now there is nothing under the plywood except for the aluminum framing and I do not want to be losing my favourite baits down there.

My niece helped me installed a makeshift direction arrow for my trolling motor along with a casing to keep it dry. It'll be nice knowing which direction the motor is pointed in before hitting the pedal.

I need to figure out where to store my battery for now. I'm thinking up front in the gap between my platform and the front bench. I'm not sure what approach to take. I was thinking either a few strips of aluminum riveted to the bench seat and bent down then back up to be bolted to the plywood. That or just buy a plastic marine battery box from BPS and bolt it in between the plywood and the front bench. Thoughts or advice would be very helpful as I'm clearly new to this [emoji5]

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[JigglyJohnson]

Does anyone have any suggestions on the best truck bed liner to use? I already used 3M 5200 on the rivets and confirmed there are no more leaks. I want to roll on some truck bed liner to quiet the boat a little. It will also serve as a paint. I want to lay it on before I add any foam.


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[derekdiruz]

I used raptor liner on my truck and loved it. After 2 years, no chipping or anything else. No sun fading. Awesome product.. I'll be spraying my boat with it below my deck to hold foam in place (I'm using board foam) and dampen sound

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[JigglyJohnson]

I used raptor liner on my truck and loved it. After 2 years, no chipping or anything else. No sun fading. Awesome product.. I'll be spraying my boat with it below my deck to hold foam in place (I'm using board foam) and dampen sound

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thanks for the advice.

Has anyone ever used brazing rods for aluminum framing? I was thinking about soldering all the joints together in addition to the riveting in place.


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[JigglyJohnson]

So I have (very) slowly been working on this project over the winter. Being a new daddy meant time and money were both hard to come by. In addition to that, my wife made a deal with someone at work, so I am getting a 17 foot bass boat. The project has now turned from a passion project to a get it done and sell it project. With that said, I'm still trying to do my best with my limited skill set.

I started by adding in two additional braces to each horizontal support.

I got them all done. I'm clearly not an expert but I tried to do everything the right way within my capabilities to allow this to last a long time. All cuts were done with a jig saw on a balcony with a single saw horse.

I finally removed the old seat support brackets. In hindsight I should have removed these initially to remove the seats. I also shouldn't have scraped the seats. Live and learn.

I'm going to try to rig together the two pairs of seat brackets to make two battery trays.

Next steps that I have planned are to vacuum and clean the inside again. Cover it all with some spray rocker guard, then start inserting foam sheets. I'm looking to get 24 cubic feet in the floor. There won't be any floor storage but I plan for two side cabinets. At least one will be a rod locker and the other either general storage or a second rod locker.

I might build an elevated deck up front a foot pr two back from the front bench just to simplify the battery storage.

I know this should have all been planned out ahead, and most of it was, but plans change.

I am working on treating my side cabinet wood pieces with old timers formula so I think I'm doing that right at least [emoji5]


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