16ft mirrocraft build

[fool4fish1226]

Looks great =D>

 

[flajsh]

Thanks for the kind words mo and big.
Yes I did a coat of primer and it is holding real good. The tape job was a little on even because I was rushing
To get done before little ones tore apart house lol.
So there will be some touch ups.

Gonna flip over and try to figure how Im gonna do floor
Bracing. This is part I couldn't wait to get too but in stressing cause Im not really that handy doing that kind of work I keep going to f4f and big an mo threads for ideas.
I'm real worried about using to long of screws and going through hull.

Sorry if post is jumbled Im posting from phone

John

 

[flajsh]

Also I know you guys wouldn't have did hull like that but should I still coat inside of floor like I was or just
Leave it the way it is stripped.

 

[moberg12]

Thanks for the kind words mo and big.
Yes I did a coat of primer and it is holding real good. The tape job was a little on even because I was rushing
To get done before little ones tore apart house lol.
So there will be some touch ups.

Gonna flip over and try to figure how Im gonna do floor
Bracing. This is part I couldn't wait to get too but in stressing cause Im not really that handy doing that kind of work I keep going to f4f and big an mo threads for ideas.
I'm real worried about using to long of screws and going through hull.

Sorry if post is jumbled Im posting from phone

John

IMO you're better off with rivets to attach to the ribs and any through hull areas. buy a pack of aluminum rivets in 3/16 and a several good drill bits, when the drill bit starts getting dull (you'll know) throw it away and grab another. When I first started drilling into the ribs I did it by feel and I can say you'd have to really try to punch through the rib and then through the hull. About halfway through I ended up wrapping the drill bit with a thin strip of duct tape to act as a stop. I think I got the idea from a thread here.

When it comes to the framing whether you use aluminum or wood build it strong and support it well the first time. I'm using wood, but honestly I won't use it next time, any initial savings you get by purchasing wood is pretty much negated when it comes time to try to waterproof the wood. I'm gonna finish with the wood but If I really like the boat and how it fishes I'll probably start collecting Aluminum for a rebuild several years from now.

I ripped up my first floor because I didn't support it enough and wasn't happy with the results. You can't build it too strong but you can under build it. The hardest part will be getting things level. I put the level back in the shed after the first day, as I found it was useless in a boat sitting on a trailer that I was climbing around in. As soon as I leveled the boat on the trailer it would be off by the time I climbed in to work, it was only valuable as a straight edge. The tape measure is your friend, measure everything, and then measure again, think about it for a minute then measure again!!! Repeat the same process when it comes to drilling a hole, mark it, then think about it, and if you are really ready to drill go for it!!

 

[bigwave]

I totally agree with Moberg, secure your framing to the hull and gunwales with rivets. He is right, measure, think, measure, re -think, Drill slowly, use a piece of duct tape to set the depth of your drill bit, take it slow and let the drill do the work. Buy some good quality drillbits and you will be surprised how easy it is. Everything above your bracing can be secured with either riviets or self-tappers.....they are real easy. My build has many flaws so far, but I am fine with them....I learned what not to do the next time.......... 8)

 

[flajsh]

I got the boat flipped back over onto the trailer in between the rain on sat.
hopefully I can get some measuring done and get some aluminum square
next weekend.

Purchased a mid eighties 30 Hp remote Johnson pull start. Its a long shaft so
I'm wondering if shaft to long. My transom is only 16 inches. Since weather here in fl
on west coast is horrible I decided to start sanding the cover and motor so I can repaint
It.

Ill try to get some pics up when this weather breaks.

 

[fool4fish1226]

Flajsh - A long shaft motor is made for a 20" transom but it will still work. The long shaft will cause some more drag. You could build/buy a jack plate for the boat. I do have a mini jacker (Never used) that I am not using just not sure what the Hp rating is on it. I will research it and find out if will handle a 30hp. If it will handle 30hp it's yours.

And the weather here on east coast is horrible to can't stand all this rain

 

[flajsh]

Flajsh - A long shaft motor is made for a 20" transom but it will still work. The long shaft will cause some more drag. You could build/buy a jack plate for the boat. I do have a mini jacker (Never used) that I am not using just not sure what the Hp rating is on it. I will research it and find out if will handle a 30hp. If it will handle 30hp it's yours.

And the weather here on east coast is horrible to can't stand all this rain

Thank you f4f that would be great. I cant wait to put her on the tin.

 

[fool4fish1226]

This is the product description for the mini jacker


Designed for clamp-on mount outboard motors up to 35 hp. Improves performance and handling of smaller or lighter boats. Also allows mounting of long shaft motors to shorter shaft transom boats. Engine mounting surface is 11-1/2" x 10".


Let me know if you want it and it's your's for free just pm me your address. If you do I will try and ship it out by the end of this week or the very beginning of next.

 

[flajsh]

Well change of plans again. Been helping a family member out
And been dipping into my build funds so now its going to be wood for floor framing.
So question is this. Do I still use rivets into the ribs or ss self tapers.
I'm hoping to start thus weekend if I can figure it out

 

[fool4fish1226]

Well change of plans again. Been helping a family member out
And been dipping into my build funds so now its going to be wood for floor framing.
So question is this. Do I still use rivets into the ribs or ss self tapers.
I'm hoping to start thus weekend if I can figure it out

I would use SS screws for sure. I didn't use self tapers; instead I drilled each hole individually and used normal ss metal screws to attach all my bracing. Self tapers will work just be carefull not to go all the way thru the hull.

PS I found the mini jacker in my shed, now I need to find a good box for it and then I will ship it out.

 

[benjineer]

Find an industrial steel supplier and check aluminum framing prices. Exponentially cheaper than Lowes/Home Depot. I used 1.25 and 1.5 angle 1/8 thick. No regrets, especially when it's sittin' out in the rain. Front and rear decks are the only wood, and I'll probably have to redo the front because I don't like the job I did.

 

[kfa4303]

Hi fool4fish. Greetings from Tallahassee. Do you think you could post a pic of your mini jacker? I'm in the process of making a jackplate/transom riser myself and I'd be curious to see how yours works. Love the avatar btw.

 

[flajsh]

Well change of plans again. Been helping a family member out
And been dipping into my build funds so now its going to be wood for floor framing.
So question is this. Do I still use rivets into the ribs or ss self tapers.
I'm hoping to start thus weekend if I can figure it out

I would use SS screws for sure. I didn't use self tapers; instead I drilled each hole individually and used normal ss metal screws to attach all my bracing. Self tapers will work just be carefull not to go all the way thru the hull.

PS I found the mini jacker in my shed, now I need to find a good box for it and then I will ship it out.

Thanks again. You don't know how much that is helping me out.

 

[flajsh]

How can I figure out how long of a screw to use when I attach framing to the boat ribs.
I'm gonna have to use 2x2 wood and figure out how to attach. I wanna get this project rolling
And this been holding me back.

 

[DaveInGA]

You need the width of the wood (2"), the thickness of the aluminum you're attaching it to and just enough threads beyond so it holds good. If I were doing the bottom of your boat, I'd use aluminum "L" brackets to attach the framing to the boat ribs and use something in the neighborhood of 1/2" SS screws or 1/2" rivets if you have a rivet gun. Then use 2 1/2" SS screws to attach the wood to the "L" brackets. Much easier to do it this way.

 

[flajsh]

You need the width of the wood (2"), the thickness of the aluminum you're attaching it to and just enough threads beyond so it holds good. If I were doing the bottom of your boat, I'd use aluminum "L" brackets to attach the framing to the boat ribs and use something in the neighborhood of 1/2" SS screws or 1/2" rivets if you have a rivet gun. Then use 2 1/2" SS screws to attach the wood to the "L" brackets. Much easier to do it this way.

Thanks for the tips. Went to lowes and they didn't have any
Aluminum l brackets. Guess ill try Hd or ace.
Picked up. Some 2x2 wood while there.

 

[fool4fish1226]

Check your PMs and happy 4th

 

[flajsh]

Check your PMs and happy 4th

Happy 4th to you also.
pm checked. Thanks. I just painted the cowel of motor.gotta take some pics

 

[flajsh]

Got cowl painted. Sat us my middle girls 5th birthday but
Sunday I will be doing framing for floor and then paint rest of motor.