18' Duracraft Rebuild

[JOHNSON44]

Looking back at this post, I am rather pleased with my progress to date (even if I do say so myself). Getting close to mechanicals on the outboard and that scares me more than a little. I tried to take good notes and pictures during the tear down. I guess I find out now how well I did.
The front is about ready for carpet and final interior painting. The cooler stand is done. I just get tired of a cooler always being in the way, or sliding around the boat, or never where I left it so I made a permanent home for it, secured with bungees and screw eyes later. The battery box is done and varnished, ready for paint and carpet on the lid. Plenty strong enough for a seat also. The battery cases will be secured to the floor and the batteries strapped in. Next will be the console that needs to be cleaned up and painted. I think I will raise it 3" off the floor so it is easy for my 6'4" to get to, both sitting and standing.

 

[JOHNSON44]

Continuing on, I plan to run the wires from one battery back to the transom to do all the motor hookups (ignition, tilt/trim, alternator). Just motor only stuff. Battery #2 will be for accessories, including the trolling motor connection. I plan to run pos and neg cables from #2 back to the console where I will hook up the lights, the livewell, and anything else that comes to mind. The battery box will include a two port maintenance charger to keep both batteries ready to go. I use this system on my pontoon boat. It is so nice to not worry about the batteries. I have installed the main cables I need either under the floor or left messengers to pull future cables. I have spent a goodly amount of time trying to envision useage patterns, "paint myself in the corner" type stuff, and future problems so things work together in the end.

 

[JOHNSON44]

No new pictures. I am down to wiring which is a slow process for me. All splices are soldered and shrink wrapped. One of my messenger strings broke when I tried to pull wire and that lost me a whole evening feeling around in strange places. I now use wire not string. I have the fuse panel started, the bow and stern lights working. The switches and gauges are in the console but not yet hooked up. AND, the 1993 48 HP Johnson is installed on the jack plate on the transom. I had to do some sideways maneuvering in the shop to get it to fit with the motor on. Nothing is hooked up but I can sit in it, turn the fan facing me and pretend. I wish I had a neat way of mounting the pump for the livewell and the transducer (both on the stern) with out more holes in the boat. More pictures soon.

 

[hsiftac]

Sounds like youre making good progress, cant wait to see more pictures

 

[JOHNSON44]

Homemade Trolling motor mount is done and trolling motor installed and wired in. The 1993 48HP Johnson is on the boat with the original jackplate. The console is from a Tracker I think and designed to fit a sloping floor. My floor is flat so I added an angled platform under the console to make it level with my floor. That raises it a few inches and makes it easier for me to stand and run the boat. The bow and stern lights have new wire running to the three position pull switch. I have the gauges and switches temporarily installed in the console as I continue wiring. I think I will wire the livewell pumps in next. The new console has a built in live well. I am going slow with the wiring, soldering and shrink wrapping every connection and testing as I go. Here are some new pictures.

 

[jcb]

I like big jon boat like this one here.Be carefull though as total weight addup very fast and you will need more horse power on her to get her to go.I allway wanted bigger jon boat as I only has 1448 rite now.I allso run big 20 footer Bass Cat though so i has me lake fishing covered and the 1448 is for river fishig.If I ever sells off me Cat it will be a 17 or 18 jon to replace an i will have about 80 horse power with prop lower unit and allso will have jet lower unit for river use.I just change hur out

 

[JOHNSON44]

Lost a few days due to duck hunting and I dropped one of the outboards on my right foot. Not broken but kinda ugly. Here are some new pics as the build continues. I am still wiring the console and about ready to put the gauges in. I found an ammeter (AMP Meter?) but I am not sure how to wire it in. I guess it measures the charging amps coming from the motor back to the battery? Is that right? Where do I wire it in? Anyway, the pump for the livewell fill is installed and wired, the locator is installed and wired. The plywood panel in the picture of the console is designed to hold my fuse panel and common ground. It is hinged so that once everything is wired it just swings up and is secured at the bottom of the console. My pontoon boat has wiring and fuses hidden inside the console and a real bear to get to. So I designed this to be easy access for the times I have to get to wiring, gauges and fuses.

 

[JOHNSON44]

More photos tomorrow. All wiring is done, controls are mounted and operating. I need to cleanup the wiring and get everything tucked away. I ordered 2 carb kits and a waterpump kit yesterday. That and carpet is the last things to do. More tomorrow.

 

[JOHNSON44]

Tried to post pictures today but kept losing the site? Pictures are of the new controls, wiring progress and new color for the motor.

 

[JOHNSON44]

OK, fixed the problem on my end. Here are the latest pictures. The wiring is done once I get the kill switch added in. I think I figured that out from info on the web and the service manual. The kill switch basically interrupts the grond from the ignition circuit. I had a friend sink his boat this winter because he had no kill switch to shut the Go-Devil motor off. No one hurt but too scary anyway. I still need to paint the cosole access panel and button that up. The stick is temporary. Would like to figure out a cover for the controls. So far so good, carpet and motor things and I should be ready for spring.

 

[JOHNSON44]

Three more "after" pictures. Hove to get a latch to hold the console panel in place.

 

[JOHNSON44]

Oops, here is the infamous stick picture

 

[mmf]

OK, fixed the problem on my end. Here are the latest pictures. The wiring is done once I get the kill switch added in. I think I figured that out from info on the web and the service manual. The kill switch basically interrupts the grond from the ignition circuit. I had a friend sink his boat this winter because he had no kill switch to shut the Go-Devil motor off. No one hurt but too scary anyway. I still need to paint the cosole access panel and button that up. The stick is temporary. Would like to figure out a cover for the controls. So far so good, carpet and motor things and I should be ready for spring.

Kill switches actually ground the STOP wire to stop the motor.

 

[JOHNSON44]

After a truly bitter winter when even the stove in my shop could not keep up, the boat is done. Picked up the repaired carb bowl yesterday and put the carbs back on today. When the weather settles a little more, I shall pull her out of the shop, hook up the water and see if it runs. If all goes well this will conclude this project. What to do next winter?
A huge thank you to everyone on this thread that helped me with all the things I could not understand. I truly could not have done it without you, many many thanks.

 

[Decatur]

Turned out nice! That console was a lucky find. You probably could have padded the top of the livewell and had an extra seat, or just have them sit on a boat cushion. Did you sell the other 48 to pay for this mod?

 

[You Know]

Does this set up allow your motor to tilt all the way up?

Im trying to convert my old evinrude to a remote steer and im being told i need a very expensive conversion kit. They are stating that the reason i want that kit and not a universal is that the universal kit doesn't allow for trim.
Any advice?

 

[JOHNSON44]

Yes the motor does tilt all the way up. I still have the other 48. I have had an offer on it but having all the spare parts is pretty cool also.
Motor runs OK, but I am getting nothing out of the tell-tale to tell me if the water pump is working. I did replace the water pump impeller and gaskets. Entirely possible I did not get it back together correctly. I ran it for a short time in a barrel and again with the water muffs, still no stream. Lacking any better ideas I will drop the lower unit again and try to discover the problem.

 

[JOHNSON44]

I have no idea about converting a tiller steer to a remote steer. Both my 48s were original remote controls. I have used both systems on various boats. I kinda like the tiller for simplicity sake but I do like the steering wheel so I am not of much use to you.

 

[Decatur]

Ya, it would be nice to have a parts motor on hand!

 

[You Know]

Thanks Johnson, any idea who makes your steering bracket.