1956 Evinrude Lark 30 HP Tear down

[Piomarine]

Shaugh, I was literally on my way to Ace to pick up a 1/4-20 all-thread when I read this. I am going to try mushrooming the end like the guy in the video and pull up on it from the top.

While I’m in there should I pull the drive shaft out as well? By that I mean is there any real reason to do so other than cleaning?

 

[Shaugh]

just put a nut on and grind it down to fit the smaller hole. no don't take the pinion out.... needle bearings... The drive shaft will pull right out though. you'll need to replace the seal in the top of the water pump cover too. The screw method he shows works for prop, pump and upper seals. I usually grind the tip down on the screw a little so it scratches less...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H52J-XPTx24

 

[jgdunham]

Regarding the 6v vs 12v
The 6v starters will take 12v just fine. The only way to kill it is excessive cranking which can happen at 6v anyway.
The part that wont survive at 12v is the choke solenoid.
You have 3 choices for that. Never choke it electrically, replace with a 12v solenoid from a 57 or newer motor, or measure the resistance of the solenoid and buy a resistor to match. Put them in series and it will halve the voltage.
You will need to calculate current: i=v/r and then power=iv to make sure you buy a resistor that can take it.
Combined, that will be p=144/r where r is the resistance

 

[Piomarine]

That’s way too much math for 6:30 in the morning...I will revisit this later lol

 

[Shaugh]

Spend some time searching around the web. Lots of little conversations but nothing that outlines a complete solution:

https://aomci.org/forums/topic/converting-from-6v-to-12v-starter/

The 6v starter you have might work. We need to test it. The only other components that need to be replaced then is the choke solenoid and the starter solenoid to 12 volts. If the 6 volt motor works you could consider putting a resistor on it to make sure it doesn't burn out.

The alternative would be to go to a 12 volt starter, but to do that you'll need to find a 1957 bracket.

Not sure this would fit.. need to research:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-Johnson-Super-Seahorse-RDS-20-Starter-Bracket-Evinrude-OMC-35hp/124282267509?hash=item1cefcce775:g:jvYAAOSwAqxfJhCl

57 bracket... but it might need to be modified / drilled ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-EVINRUDE-JOHNSON-OMC-BRP-BRACKET-PN-0203944-203944/123524583141

 

[jgdunham]

Dont worry about the starter. It will be fine. Dont bother with a resistor for it either, it would need to be outrageously high wattage to handle the current.
Bring your start solenoid to the auto parts store and tell them you want a 12v version. Same connections and same mounting configuration.

If the starter is dead i would bring it to a motor shop for rebuild rather than seek replacement.

 

[Pappy]

I am running a 1956 30hp Johnson on the back of Lesa's 1959 Lyman. Original starter (6V) running on 12V with a 12V (old Ford style) solenoid. It is one fast starter!
Lots of us do it.....join in.

JGDunham - Nice post! Sounds like you understand those electron thingies pretty well.

 

[Shaugh]

I do the same on my 1942 Ford tractor. The 6 volt starter works furiously with 12 volts and has worked for years.. I guess that's the call then just don't over do it if the motor doesn't start right away.... put 12 volts to that thing and see how it spins and raises the bendix.

I think on that motor I would also convert to an electronic box outside the hood. Get that starter solenoid out from under the shroud.

 

[nccatfisher]

Those 12v to 6V ballast resistors he is speaking of for your choke are easy to come by, most auto parts places will have them. The downfall to them is they don't do moisture will. You will need to locate it where it doesn't get wet.

 

[Piomarine]

This whole electric start thing has my brain tied up in knots...and I’m an electrician (part time)! Right now I’m not aware that I even have a solenoid (I could be wrong, someone point it out if I am).

Where are the ballast resistors located?

Also, is a junction box required for running electric start? I looked at them today and they run like $100+ on eBay.

Outside of the starter I really just don’t know what I’m looking at with the electric start system.

Edit: I found the solenoid under the carburetor. Still unsure about the resistors.

 

[Shaugh]

I'm probably wrong.. I thought I saw the solenoid under the shroud in one of those photos.. but it looks like they did have a seperate box on Larks:


Sorting out the electricals is part of the endgame.... focus on the magneto, head gasket, and carb rebuild for now...

 

[Piomarine]

I’m actually confused by the parts manual. It has the starter solenoid in the junction box, but also lists a solenoid assembly on the carburetor.

I know it’s not critical for right now but I like to think a few moves ahead so I’m not overwhelmed when they time comes.

 

[Shaugh]

The solenoid on the carb is the 6v choke solenoid.. we'll change that out for a 12 volt... they're cheap and we won't have to worry about hot ballast resistors..

I looked at outboard junction boxes... crazy expensive...

It really is just a weatherproof box..... I'd consider getting something like this...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/electrical-enclosure-plastic-junction-box-IP66-dust-splash-proof-125-86-62mm/253389129349?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3aff2b4685:g:3LAAAOSwIM9eFF-B&enc=AQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrDx%2B2NLp21dg6hHbHAkGMVwdlTsKYibJ72lIZ78l1Jv93%2BVkuqs8GVrcNFWNU9LSXOCotzx6wLPcjZnxPuRmUH26%2FBiAEoIF6vcVP%2FjrT5J6v2OIdZagCO3SKDA7QBQF%2FzvcxRkSbnZklRijV9ZO5ABvqys4gZBY4EVBNV29zUecULqtb8QldVI2F5EZ525YEWQ%2FvWJUy5eEIEXV1lHEyWGXRHaORoGVdmbms4zKmYb8BX7Q97QPmJn%2BTjqvRX%2B2r2Es5tB6q173MIa54orOry6gW3L5dRQDiTlEv9QPgaikCJSsbO28izjuq8QgrIv6gp1%2B59XEeHkKXmk74VXdC%2Bxhzv99sk7hRjG0%2F9XnZeLUPPML%2FyYhA6Ml3uwgT7M18wBX8kj07f4cDrhxBQalioYT%2BVD%2BpYIw73rcb62MGwvQfRysedWA49vCewoMIOYdX%2BwSbBZ58Kmcv%2BqYrzWwBZhpl90wjomnhyVAwh08DynObzuCuNQagJUUtRIF4WKT1asTKCQ2i6xQAUaj%2FtucYY%2BFX2pLp%2FszyxRtHNFWPkfOsliS7RN4Igm88QuwYiJPyMr1ZRJ9NnvqS%2FGgLPnchPcjAbxI%2FDreNRMYR37SZN8MnxELOhgD4RgYjlFfvmEuN9iVKq4VRYjc7gFr%2BYofRiLvYXSyh%2FaW%2Ffvimq9%2FC0QUdx%2FI0WupGCQ4e2opz5ft92xYtLxgvKqQFbiaxCGKZMOXVLawTMz9gpZgeYfzw5jDKhvQ0x%2FlBTWF3o%2Bc2xPgjfh4o6aI9P%2FOPDjH6YEDxA%3D%3D&checksum=25338912934916a3e33262d64c55a01c5b5c25b86568

This was the lark where I saw the solenoid under the shroud. If you didn't have it there then it must have been in a box:

 

[Piomarine]

I’ve been doing some reading and it looks like an appropriate OEM solenoid will not fit under the shroud but it looks like some guys have used a Mercury solenoid under the hood because it’s smaller and there is room for it.

 

[nccatfisher]

Look up a "Max Power" starter solenoid. They are used on just about all garden tractors. They are small and compact. I am betting you can fit it under the cowl. I have put them on several mercurys.

 

[Piomarine]

Do you have a part number to reference? I looked them up and found a couple different ones. Also would a 2 pole solenoid work? I was under the impression that it needed a 3 pole.

 

[Pappy]

You can make your own "Solenoid Box" if you want to. I have one I made years ago that has a key switch on it. It also houses the battery. Inside the box is the solenoid and wiring from the key switch. I will see if I can get you a pic if you are interested. The nice thing about it is that I can move it from boat to boat. Since most of the boxes you are looking at have wiring from 1956 you can almost be assured the harness will be iffy at best however you can buy a cheap box and wire it up yourself. There are reproduction wire harnesses available as well as decals if you choose that route.
On the choke solenoid issue, you should also have a manual choke lever. That can be used in place of an electrically operated solenoid/choke if you want. Practical if you plan on sitting back where the engine is. Not so much if you are sitting forward and using remote controls.

 

[Piomarine]

I would like to see it thank you!

 

[jgdunham]

In 1956 they werent wired for a real kill switch. You can replace the armature plate with a newer one or drill the extra hole to add a second wire to the other set of points if you want one. Yours has only 1 wire to the vacuum switch to prevent over rev.
To shut off that motor you are supposed to choke it so as was mentioned by Pappy you really want that electric choke working if you are bow drive.

 

[Piomarine]

I will be running a bow drive so yes I will definitely want that electric choke.

Pappy, in response to your idea of making a J-box I did some searching to see what others may have done and stumbled upon this recent thread on the AOMCI forum. It has some interesting ideas on there...

https://aomci.org/forums/topic/homemade-omc-starter-junction-box-ideas/

Now for tonight's work...I made an attempt to remove the drive shaft seal under the water pump plate...it did not go well. After some serious mangling of the brass original seal (which I was led to believe was not an issue because it is getting replaced), the rubber ring and the core spring came out. All that is left is the inner and outer brass rings and the outer ring feels as though it has been glued in place. Any suggestions for getting this out and not damaging the housing is appreciated. Same request for the prop shaft seal. I have seen where some people drill a hole in a 2x4 and use that to secure it while they pry it out but I don't really have much guidance on that.





After I failed to fully remove the drive shaft seal, I decided to finally disassemble and clean the magneto. That procedure went very smoothly and the plate is now cleaned and ready for reassembly...whenever that may be lol