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1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project
- Thread starter oakchas
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Okay, so... I touched up the few spots that were re-primed. Wet sanded them down to 2000 grit.
I started buffing out the transom and and got it done and some of the the port side. I'm using some old Turtle Wax buffing compound (paste) that I had around. This is not my first choice for buffing compound with a random orbit sander polisher... but it's doing the job, and it's not hurting anything. After I get the buffing done, I plan to polish with polishing compound, and then waxing.
Just having done the research on waxing a freshly painted item (car/boat, whatever), there's a lot of talk about not doing it. "paint has to off gas," and all that... If 90+ degree days and sunshine won't sufficiently bake the paint... Surface temps on the boat skin have been over 125 degrees... I don't know what will...I'm gonna wax it.
I carpeted the bunks on the trailer a few days ago... and I'm getting anxious to get it back on the trailer to start working on the interior.
This has taken much longer than I wanted it to; but I think in the end, it will have been worth it.
pix soon.
I started buffing out the transom and and got it done and some of the the port side. I'm using some old Turtle Wax buffing compound (paste) that I had around. This is not my first choice for buffing compound with a random orbit sander polisher... but it's doing the job, and it's not hurting anything. After I get the buffing done, I plan to polish with polishing compound, and then waxing.
Just having done the research on waxing a freshly painted item (car/boat, whatever), there's a lot of talk about not doing it. "paint has to off gas," and all that... If 90+ degree days and sunshine won't sufficiently bake the paint... Surface temps on the boat skin have been over 125 degrees... I don't know what will...I'm gonna wax it.
I carpeted the bunks on the trailer a few days ago... and I'm getting anxious to get it back on the trailer to start working on the interior.
This has taken much longer than I wanted it to; but I think in the end, it will have been worth it.
pix soon.
FormerParatrooper
Well-known member
When your done, you can look at it with pride of a job well done and enjoy it more.
Rubbing out is done. A $70 6inch random orbital sander/buffer from harbor freight made the job easy and tolerable. Less expensive than a porter cable (by 1/2), it does a good job. Not as good as the cyclo I used to own, but goodenuf.
So, it's flatter than a show boat, and shinier than a flat black rat rod.
Its got orange peel, less than a Sunkist orange, much more than a Steinway.
Polishing its next, then wax. Have to wait for dusk before polishing. Just like I had to get up at dawn tho do the rubbing compound.
So, it's flatter than a show boat, and shinier than a flat black rat rod.
Its got orange peel, less than a Sunkist orange, much more than a Steinway.
Polishing its next, then wax. Have to wait for dusk before polishing. Just like I had to get up at dawn tho do the rubbing compound.
derekdiruz
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I like it. Your work is looking great and paying off!
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
In case you're wondering what the difference is between rubbing out and polishing... Here's a photo description:
Polishing, first pass:
Rubbing, last pass:
I'm using polishing compound on this first pass of polishing. I'll be using a liquid polishing paste on the second polishing pass before waxing.
Polishing, first pass:
Rubbing, last pass:
I'm using polishing compound on this first pass of polishing. I'll be using a liquid polishing paste on the second polishing pass before waxing.
FYI, turn your tape measure around!oakchas said:Polish and wax done. Boat is on trailer.
Another pic of wax final before it went on the trailer:
Seriously, when the Pros detail a boat, they put the ruled tape vertically against the hull and "look" for the number of inches of reflection gained in the surface.
It is a much more reliable indicator of shine than you would believe it to be, so much so that it is a good way to check between cleaning methods or products used! When the Pros at shows or such talk "depth of finish" ... this is what they are alluding to.
Thanks. I used to detail cars back in the day, so I know of what you speak.
It isn't that important to me. I've already admitted to less orange peel than a Sunkist, more than a Steinway.
It's a roller paint job, in full sun, and horrible heat.
If I were going for concours, I would have done most everything differently.
As it is, it's a 14 foot tin boat. Viewable from 14 feet.
As it was, it was a 14 foot boat. Viewable from 100 feet.
Works for me, and I don't think the fish will judge too harshly.
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
It isn't that important to me. I've already admitted to less orange peel than a Sunkist, more than a Steinway.
It's a roller paint job, in full sun, and horrible heat.
If I were going for concours, I would have done most everything differently.
As it is, it's a 14 foot tin boat. Viewable from 14 feet.
As it was, it was a 14 foot boat. Viewable from 100 feet.
Works for me, and I don't think the fish will judge too harshly.
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
So, just to do things right for flotation, I weighed the trailer alone, and then with the hull on it.oakchas said:
Trailer weight: 380 lbs.
Trailer and hull: 520 lbs.
A hull weight of 140 lbs.!
That's interesting to me. Hard to believe all that aluminum and 5-7 coats of paint and primer weighs only 140 pounds!
That's light, compared to what I thought it would be.
Okay, so today before the rain hit, I was able to cut the foredeck and the access panel to it.
Just like the one on the new one on the first page of this thread.
The reason it doesn't fit perfectly is that I have to bend the ends in.
The access panel is cut from the top of the old front seat.
I'll be using the rear seat or the middle seat as the rear splash guard/transom tray.
The remaining seat will be cut up for use as a control/switch panel near the captain's seat at the rear. Lights, remote control for anchor winch, bilge and aerator for live well.
Just like the one on the new one on the first page of this thread.
The reason it doesn't fit perfectly is that I have to bend the ends in.
The access panel is cut from the top of the old front seat.
I'll be using the rear seat or the middle seat as the rear splash guard/transom tray.
The remaining seat will be cut up for use as a control/switch panel near the captain's seat at the rear. Lights, remote control for anchor winch, bilge and aerator for live well.
DiverJosh82
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Great work! I'm really liking your build. I'm actually building the same boat! I just finished the stripping today. I can't wait to see where you go with it.
okay, I just noticed that the first page didn't show what the 1415 outfitter looks like from the stern:
And again from the bow:
So that gives you an Idea of where I'm headed, and what the build should look similar to when done.
I still can't lift and move stuff over 15#, so I'm measuring and comparing actual measurements to my CAD drawings.
And again from the bow:
So that gives you an Idea of where I'm headed, and what the build should look similar to when done.
I still can't lift and move stuff over 15#, so I'm measuring and comparing actual measurements to my CAD drawings.
Ya know, it's interesting...
I'm getting closer to carpeting. I've bought the carpet. I've bought carpet pad. (There's that silk purse again, LOL!) Now the pad is from a boat carpet "e-tailer" and, it's approved for double glue down: i.e. glue the pad down, glue the carpet to the pad. Great, right?
Well, it's a polyurethane padding. Will a solvent based adhesive eat it up? Hmmm...
Most solvent based adhesives say not to use it on painted or protected (say, coated with "old timers" boat wood finish) surfaces, because it will eat the protection. Most water based adhesives for marine use (once it's dry, water won't cause it to come unglued), say that if the adhesive doesn't soak into the wood a bit... it won't stick well.
So, this means I have to leave the carpeted side of the plywood untreated. Whichever way I glue the carpet down on it.
That does not please me. Wood rots. It rots slower if protected. Carpet holds moisture, a perfect environment to accelerate rotting.
Aluminum decking is great, but it adds weight without flotation, requiring offset auxiliary flotation.
To heck with it! Full steam ahead!
Plywood!
It'll probably last until the boat is part of my estate, anyway.
Worrying ain't getting the boat built! But it's raining, anyway.
I'm getting closer to carpeting. I've bought the carpet. I've bought carpet pad. (There's that silk purse again, LOL!) Now the pad is from a boat carpet "e-tailer" and, it's approved for double glue down: i.e. glue the pad down, glue the carpet to the pad. Great, right?
Well, it's a polyurethane padding. Will a solvent based adhesive eat it up? Hmmm...
Most solvent based adhesives say not to use it on painted or protected (say, coated with "old timers" boat wood finish) surfaces, because it will eat the protection. Most water based adhesives for marine use (once it's dry, water won't cause it to come unglued), say that if the adhesive doesn't soak into the wood a bit... it won't stick well.
So, this means I have to leave the carpeted side of the plywood untreated. Whichever way I glue the carpet down on it.
That does not please me. Wood rots. It rots slower if protected. Carpet holds moisture, a perfect environment to accelerate rotting.
Aluminum decking is great, but it adds weight without flotation, requiring offset auxiliary flotation.
To heck with it! Full steam ahead!
Plywood!
It'll probably last until the boat is part of my estate, anyway.
Worrying ain't getting the boat built! But it's raining, anyway.
