1967 Lund S-16 rebuild

[thomasdgs]

I am curious to continue watching this build, I am a few weeks away from starting up on my s-14 build.
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=43755&p=446456&hilit=Jenny#p446456\

I opted to use the same piece of ply for my transom, and my casting deck, 3/4". With the carpet now on it, I am very concerned about fitting it into the seat channels. Any future construction will be with 1/2" or 5/8". Your 25XD looks very mint too, I love mine. I would love the extra 2' of the S-16.

 

[mikejjmay]

Got the casting deck cut and sized to place. The front deck frame actually sits one eighth of an inch lower then the seat due to having to go underneath the aluminum lip on the front of the seat. Therefore I was able to use a three-quarter inch casting deck and it came pretty dang close to level with the seat top due to that one eighth of an inch. Lucked out I guess. Got the deck down in the basement now soaking up the linseed oil mineral spirits and Spar Varnish mix. The cutout will be an opening door just to store life jackets underneath the deck.

Good luck on your S14 build take a lot of pictures as you go just, viewing everybody else's pictures on here really helps.

When you guys make triangular bow caps to mount the trolling motor on, are you mounting the wood piece on top of the Rails or so that it fits in between the rails, and supporting it with some aluminum angle or something like that?

 

[mikejjmay]

You can see where you lose the 1/8 in this photo by putting it under the lip

 

[mikejjmay]

Well the casting deck should receive its last coating of treatment then its on to carpet. Tried to find marine vinyl on the cheap that matched the existing vinyl on the seats but no luck, and all new vinyl through the whole boat is just not in the budget.

Anyone ever done a hingeless hatch (like the whole hatch just lifts out)? If so, how did you "retain" it down when underway, etc? Its 3/4 ply so pretty hefty so im not worried about it bounding around too much, but would like a way to latch it down as it were. trying to minimize hinges on the deck top, and unfortunately with the way the framing was done (no one to blame but me) hidden hinges or under-deck hinges aren't an option.

 

[jethro]

When you guys make triangular bow caps to mount the trolling motor on, are you mounting the wood piece on top of the Rails or so that it fits in between the rails, and supporting it with some aluminum angle or something like that?

Mine is made of an old road sign that was riveted to the top of the gunwales. The side that faces the stern was brake pressed to make it stiff. Someone did a really nice job with it and it supports my 50lb Minn Kota Powerdrive nicely.

 

[mikejjmay]

Hmm interesting idea - ill see if i can find the right size piece of aluminum somewhere locally. I like that idea instead of riveting through the sides.

 

[FishinLite]

Here is a pic of the carpeted bow plate I created.The plate was screwed to the gunwales. It is 5/8" marine plywood with 2 1/2" vertical support tacked and glued to the underside in about the middle. There is a piece of aluminum angle hold holding carpeted vertical compartment piece that you see Both at the bow plate and the floor. A 200 lbs guy can stand on it with out a bit of flex. This might give you some ideas.

 

[thomasdgs]

I will be screwing my bow plate to the tops of the gunwales also. I did this because it seemed the easiest way to make it look nice, and ensures the gunwales don't interfere with any future mounting. Haven't tested it with a bow mounted motor yet.

 

[mikejjmay]

Got any pictures of how you actually screwed it through? I'm thinking top mount instead of flush mount is the direction I'm going to go as well, it just doesn't look like there's enough width on the gunwale to get a nut on the bottom of it.

 

[thomasdgs]

I haven't finished my project yet (on hold for the snow season), but I plan to just use a number of large stainless screws into pilot holes on top of the gunwales. You're right about a lack of room for a nut (or washer), and the gunwales are pretty meaty, so I figure screws will hold fine... if i use enough of them.

 

[mikejjmay]

Gotcha. I spose you could also use some blind pop rivets

 

[mikejjmay]

Silly question - when gluing carpet down on the deck piece.

Do you lay the piece down right side up, apply the glue, lay on the carpet and roll out, and then let dry completely before flipping over and bringing it over the comers and gluing on the back side? Or do you just let it set up a bit and then flip it over and do it all? Or do you just go for it and let the staples on the back hold it in place?

 

[mikejjmay]

Im talking for big pieces like the deck, for small pieces i don't think i will have issues doing the whole piece in one go

 

[Prowelder]

It's looking really good I would have painted the inside of the boat before I installed all that carpet

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[mikejjmay]

I did on mine, those were just the otehr guys giving me some ideas. Or maybe you were complementing theirs Either way, the inside of mine is a dark gray, should have some pics posted here in a bit

 

[thomasdgs]

Silly question - when gluing carpet down on the deck piece.

Do you lay the piece down right side up, apply the glue, lay on the carpet and roll out, and then let dry completely before flipping over and bringing it over the comers and gluing on the back side? Or do you just let it set up a bit and then flip it over and do it all? Or do you just go for it and let the staples on the back hold it in place?

The steps I followed to get the carpet on my larger bits (and smaller bits a like) were:
-trace outline on to carpet, and cut out with 3" extra on all edges (net trim)
-apply glue to top of deck pieces, and let it set up for a couple minutes (get tacky)
-lay the glue covered board down onto the carpet laying on a flat surface
-Glue and staple the carpet to the back of the board along the longest flat edge (quickly!)
-flip the board and roll the carpet with a 1.5" pipe from the stapled side out to all the other edges
-flip the board back over and glue ( including the board edges) and staple remaining edges
-spend an hour picking all the carpet glue and carpet fluff off my hands.

Tip: if you have any curved edges, save those until you have stapled the back on all straight edges, then have plenty of sharp blades handy for trimming the excess on curved edges so it will lay flat.