1967 starcraft 14 ft Seafarer repower.

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saltyphish

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Dayton Ohio
As the title suggests I am looking to repower my 67 14 ft seafarer mod v this year. I know the boat can handle up to 30hp from manufacturers specs. I'm currently looking at a new yamaha 4 stroke 25 hp tiller. The motor weights around 126 lbs. Anyone see something wrong with this choice? Boat is 14 ft, 63 in beam, 54 in transom width, 16 in transom height, weighs 215lbs with a weight capacity of 850lb. Thanks!
 
Welcome to Tin Boats! I think that is the third time I've said that today. :) That's good for the forum!

That should be enough power for that boat for most uses. For heavy loading times, might need a lower pitch prop. If speed is your primary goal, than a 30HP is going to be the better option.

What motor were you running and how did it perform?
 
Welcome to Tin Boats! I think that is the third time I've said that today. :) That's good for the forum!

That should be enough power for that boat for most uses. For heavy loading times, might need a lower pitch prop. If speed is your primary goal, than a 30HP is going to be the better option.

What motor were you running and how did it perform?
Thanks! Speed really isn't my primary goal. This is just a fishing boat I'm building for my boy and I to fish out of. I had a 65 evinrude 9.5 that seemed underpowered for my boat. Main purpose for upgrade is reliability, and more capability in stronger current. I wanted at least a 20 hp but noticed yamahas 20 hp and 25 hp weighed the same so thinking 25 hp. My main concern was weight on the transom. New motor is only 126 lbs.
 
Thanks! Speed really isn't my primary goal. This is just a fishing boat I'm building for my boy and I to fish out of. I had a 65 evinrude 9.5 that seemed underpowered for my boat. Main purpose for upgrade is reliability, and more capability in stronger current. I wanted at least a 20 hp but noticed yamahas 20 hp and 25 hp weighed the same so thinking 25 hp. My main concern was weight on the transom. New motor is only 126 lbs.
It should work well for your planned uses.
 
I had a 1970 Seafarer, (the older version with the wood bench seat tops).
I also had a 25hp Yamaha four stroke, a 2011 model, that was on my 16ft boat.
I had gotten the motor for free when a buddy passed away and tried it on the '70 Seafarer. It was doable but likely not safe, the added weight and power combination was a bit much for that hull. They were narrower and drew more water in the stern then the newer models. I think mine was rated for 20 or 25hp but in those days it would have been a much lighter two stroke. I ended up running a 1975 20hp Johnson Two stroke on the 14ft Seafarer. It was a good balance of power and weight.
I was around 240 lbs back when I had that boat and my weight on the rear bench, the 25hp four stroke, with the fuel tank and battery mounted midship, it sat with only a bit over an inch of freeboard at the transom. It was a bit better with a big passenger up front but if that big passenger wasn't aware of the issue at hand, him moving rearward would have sunk that boat. More than once the day I had the 25hp Yamaha on it I got water over the transom just letting off the throttle.
My 25hp, a 2011 model, weighs in at 147 lbs on a scale, rope start, no tilt or trim. I've been looking for a good short transom 16ft boat or aluminum bass boat to put it on.
 
A 25 should push your 14 footer well, as long as you have it propped right, especially with the 4-strokes, which tend to not have as good of a holeshot as a 2-stroke.

If you can find a 1990's or early 2000's two-stroke motor, you may like how it performs better. They are very reliable and long-lived, but do take more tinkering than the newer, fuel-injected motors.

Either way, I hope you get one that serves you and your son well.
 
A 25 should push your 14 footer well, as long as you have it propped right, especially with the 4-strokes, which tend to not have as good of a holeshot as a 2-stroke.

If you can find a 1990's or early 2000's two-stroke motor, you may like how it performs better. They are very reliable and long-lived, but do take more tinkering than the newer, fuel-injected motors.

Either way, I hope you get one that serves you and your son well.
I believe I did. Pulled the trigger on a new 4 cycle, electric start 25hp! Thanks for the response
 

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Thanks! Speed really isn't my primary goal. This is just a fishing boat I'm building for my boy and I to fish out of. I had a 65 evinrude 9.5 that seemed underpowered for my boat. Main purpose for upgrade is reliability, and more capability in stronger current. I wanted at least a 20 hp but noticed yamahas 20 hp and 25 hp weighed the same so thinking 25 hp. My main concern was weight on the transom. New motor is only 126 lbs.
I have a 14' 63 seafarer with a 1988 2 stroke 25HP merc and the boat flies. GPS has me up around 28MPH with 1 person on board and that's with a big 3/4" plywood front deck, size 31 AGM TM battery near the bow and a Terrova TM, so there's some weight in the boat. Curious if your Seafarer has 3 transom supports at the back like mine does? I could have sworn I found an original spec sheet on my boat and it said it was rated for 5-40HP! 40 would be bananas. I wouldn't do more than 25.
 
I have a 14' 63 seafarer with a 1988 2 stroke 25HP merc and the boat flies. GPS has me up around 28MPH with 1 person on board and that's with a big 3/4" plywood front deck, size 31 AGM TM battery near the bow and a Terrova TM, so there's some weight in the boat. Curious if your Seafarer has 3 transom supports at the back like mine does? I could have sworn I found an original spec sheet on my boat and it said it was rated for 5-40HP! 40 would be bananas. I wouldn't do more than 25.
Yes sir, it has the 3 transom supports. Definitely a beefy transom. I found the manufacturer sales brochure for my model and it states 35hp. I'm sure 25hp will do me just fine!
 
I had a '67 14ft Seafarer for years, it came with the original 1967 Evinrude 18hp on it.
The motor weighed 86 lbs on a shipping scale plus the 42 lb 6 gallon tank it needed. The spec plate on mine said only 20hp or 850 lbs max hp and weight. The motor, full tank of gas, a 34 lb group 24 deep cycle to run a fish finder and lights, and myself at around 265 lbs or so back then plus a few rods and reels and a tackle box at about 30 lbs or so, then add another 250 for a buddy and another 30lbs of tackle, since that 18hp was real thirsty it meant carrying a second tank of fuel, so another 42lbs when carrying two guys. It put the total load at 779 lbs and if you count a bucket or minnows, a cooler for lunch and an 8lb anchor we were probably right at the 850 lbs if not over it.

Fast forward 30 years and my retired self is closer to 325 lbs, the 18hp rope start gave way to a 130lb Yamaha four stroke a bigger tackle box and a fishing buddy that's close to my weight I suppose plus a small anchor winch and an 8 lb danforth anchor, a bow mount trolling motor, and a pair of group 27 batteries to run the trolling motor and fish finder.
I upgrade the hull in 1999 to a newer 14DLX with a 955 lbs and 30hp max rating.
They upped the hp rating when the SF went to a 67" beam width.
When I added the 20hp Yamaha the motor weight became 132lb but I no longer needed to carry two 6 gallon fuel tanks. so the added motor weight was a wash overall. At that time the 25hp was a heavier motor and not an option weight wise even on the newer hull. As it sits now a typical day out on the river would be,
20hp 4s motor - 132
6gal gas - 42
two group 27 deep cycle batteries 110 lbs
trolling motor - 42 lbs
tackle 41 lbs
me - 325
buddy -240
buddies tackle 10 lbs
cooler - 10 lbs
anchor 10 lbs
The boat is still overweight but there's not much I can do about it other than go back to an older, smaller two stroke motor
The new hull is the Alaskan style hull, similar to what they currently marketed as the Alaskan 15.
The newer hull was a major improvement overall in the amount of power it took to push the boat along and in stability. The sleeker bow rake and wider beam made it more like a 16ft boat than a 'big' 14,



starcraft_sf_ 6702.jpg
 
And THIS is why I can never keep 15-25 HP two-strokes around. They sell like hotcakes around here.

I think "Hoarder" and several others on this forum have 2-strokes they would be willing to sell.
 
And THIS is why I can never keep 15-25 HP two-strokes around. They sell like hotcakes around here.

I think "Hoarder" and several others on this forum have 2-strokes they would be willing to sell.
I'm actually going to have pods welded on the back. My yamahe 25 hp weight 130lbs. I'm about 250lbs myself. Plus gas and batteries I figured an extra 200 lbs of buoyancy in the back can't hurt
 
I don't know if I'd be all that keen on adding pods to the stern of a small boat. An outboard performs best when set back away from the transom not in it. I played around with a small glass boat that had that sort of configuration and what kept happening was that the prop came up out of the water too far as the hull rose up on plain making it necessary to lower the motor to maintain prop bite on the water. In other words the point of rise began further rearward as the boat rode up on the water and instead of the motor remaining in the water it rose up with the hull.
In many ways it acted more like a displacement hull with an inboard than a light outboard and gained many of the negative characteristics of a tunnel hull.

130lbs is double the weight of what works best on those hulls. Adding a couple square feet of flotation isn't going to amount to much overall and will likely change the characteristics of the boat for the worse.

At only 4.5ft wide those are narrow transoms. Keep in mind that in 1967 a 20hp didn't break the 100lb mark and your now exceeding that by 30%.

Ad into the fact that they calculated avg, passenger weight at under 160lbs or so. Electric start, power tilt/trim, fish finders, and lugging around a 40 lb battery and 40 lbs of tackle wasn't the norm.

They were great boats but not capable of carrying a lot of weight thus the 850lb rating. Today that's two adult men, a cooler full of beer, 50 lbs of tackle and a 10hp two stroke at best. Start calculating the other little items like the anchor and rope, electronics, bait bucket, tools, flares, life vests, fenders, and any other small items added plus fuel and your at or over that 850 pretty quick,

Boats never do well running at their maximum weight, and if that weight is mostly at the stern its far worse, You end up with a boat that wants to point to the sky and dig a hole in the water around it every time you crack open the throttle.

I'm not saying don't try it but be aware its far from ideal and the chances of it sitting so low in the water when your at the helm its going to be in risk of not having enough freeboard on acceleration,

You would be in far better shape if that were the 16ft version of that hull or with a lighter motor.
I'd keep an eye out for a deal on a later version of that hull, in the 1990's they made a wider version that was shared with or came from their sister company Smokercraft. Smokercraft sold it as the Alaskan 15, I had one for a while that I ran a 35hp tiller motor on. It was rated at 35hp and more than 100 lbs more weight due to the higher sides and wider beam width. I wish I never sold it. It was a 14ft hull that acted and felt like a 16ft boat without the weight. With a 35hp Johnson on it the thing was brutally fast and still had 4"of freeboard at the transom with me sitting on the rear bench with the fuel tank and batteries also in the rear,

Four strokes weren't even a thought back then, boat manufacturers making aluminum boats at that time were not much more than 10 years from the day when they were still making airplane fuel tanks and many were still using tooling set in place for the war effort in the early '40's.

The Seafarer hulls went pretty much unchanged from the mid to late 50's till the late 70's when the wood benches were replaced with stamped one piece aluminum seats reinforced with poured in foam. vs the chunks of polystyrene that filled the older seats after around 1958 or so and at some point all three bench seats gained flotation foam. The newer urethane foam was more resistant to gasoline where as the older polystyrene turns to gooey paste when it contacts oil or gas.

The lapstrake hull was new for 1960, and ran basically unchanged until late 1979 when they added the new style seats, Then it ran unchanged until the hull gained width and a bit of length. (I've seen '79 models that had the new seats and a few that still had the older mahogany benches). I sort of preferred the wood benches because they were easy to remove but they were also heavier and were prone to rot as they got old.

There were also three 14ft open hulls in the earlier days starting with the Sea Scamp, then Super Duty, and the Seafarer. HP ratings were all over the place and were as high as 40hp on the 14ft Seafarer with a 52" transom.
The hull went unchanged but ratings varied without much reasoning but as standards came about the ratings went down. A lot of that was due to them taking into account the true weight of most folks who used these boats.

The best I can figure is that they must have used 10 year old kids to estimate their weights in the older boats. I had an 80's Grumman 14ft V hull that had a coast guard plate that said 8 persons or 460lbs max with a 25hp max on a 15" x 54" transom. An Identical Lowe hull from the same year and likely from the same production line read 5 persons or 880lbs and a 35hp max hp rating with the exact same measurements. The two boats were identical in every way other than color and the fact that the Grumman had different style seat benches with padding on top. Both shared identical transom panels, outer hulls and corner caps. With a 300 lb man at the helm neither one had enough freeboard to be comfortable running the same 20hp motor.


from 1961:
Starcraft 1961 (2).jpg
 
I had a '67 14ft Seafarer for years, it came with the original 1967 Evinrude 18hp on it.
The motor weighed 86 lbs on a shipping scale plus the 42 lb 6 gallon tank it needed. The spec plate on mine said only 20hp or 850 lbs max hp and weight. The motor, full tank of gas, a 34 lb group 24 deep cycle to run a fish finder and lights, and myself at around 265 lbs or so back then plus a few rods and reels and a tackle box at about 30 lbs or so, then add another 250 for a buddy and another 30lbs of tackle, since that 18hp was real thirsty it meant carrying a second tank of fuel, so another 42lbs when carrying two guys. It put the total load at 779 lbs and if you count a bucket or minnows, a cooler for lunch and an 8lb anchor we were probably right at the 850 lbs if not over it.

Fast forward 30 years and my retired self is closer to 325 lbs, the 18hp rope start gave way to a 130lb Yamaha four stroke a bigger tackle box and a fishing buddy that's close to my weight I suppose plus a small anchor winch and an 8 lb danforth anchor, a bow mount trolling motor, and a pair of group 27 batteries to run the trolling motor and fish finder.
I upgrade the hull in 1999 to a newer 14DLX with a 955 lbs and 30hp max rating.
They upped the hp rating when the SF went to a 67" beam width.
When I added the 20hp Yamaha the motor weight became 132lb but I no longer needed to carry two 6 gallon fuel tanks. so the added motor weight was a wash overall. At that time the 25hp was a heavier motor and not an option weight wise even on the newer hull. As it sits now a typical day out on the river would be,
20hp 4s motor - 132
6gal gas - 42
two group 27 deep cycle batteries 110 lbs
trolling motor - 42 lbs
tackle 41 lbs
me - 325
buddy -240
buddies tackle 10 lbs
cooler - 10 lbs
anchor 10 lbs
The boat is still overweight but there's not much I can do about it other than go back to an older, smaller two stroke motor
The new hull is the Alaskan style hull, similar to what they currently marketed as the Alaskan 15.
The newer hull was a major improvement overall in the amount of power it took to push the boat along and in stability. The sleeker bow rake and wider beam made it more like a 16ft boat than a 'big' 14,



View attachment 124509
Your gonna have to move weight further forward....batteries and fuel tank are easy to do. Rather than adding pods, consider a set of adjustable trim tabs if you plan on planing the hull. Pods might give better boyancy, but won't help you get on plane. In your case a home made tail fin might be a better choice, I have made a few small fins from SS sheetmetal. Being only .050" thick, they worked far better than the plastic contraptions that you buy.
 
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