1974 RHYNCRAFT MAKEOVER

[BAY BEAGLE]

This boat has been a part of my life for over 46 years. The owner comming up in age, feels handling a boat of this size is not a option. So I was able to take ownership, and bring it back to life.
Posted a few pics and questions on other post in TINBOATS, but now I'm consolidating them into this thread, as my journey begins ....
I have read for many, many hours the work and techniques You Guys and Gals have put into Your project(s), and took alot of notes along the way. From those notes I have gained confidence that I can turn this "tinboat" around.
BIG THANKS!!!!!!

Heading to the barn -


Converting the Kayak trailer over to the bunk trailer -


Building the bunk trailer -


Trailer situated (boards not yet bolted to frame, carpet will be after boat build


Looking into the weak spots, removing all hardware, making a game plan for the transome -


Survey the "tree limb damage" - and what action to take. From some good feedback - welding is the only option ..... and that will not be a problem.


And to get this rail section straighten/rounded out -


And to correct and smooth out a few "wrinkles" along the way -


Tested the sanding today, to see what grit would attack the original base - winner was - #180 grit paper with orbital palm sander, and NYALOX DISCO 541 - 778 - 4 WHEEL poly #120 brush around rivets and tight area's.


Having a fresh pair (105 days old) of transplanted lungs - my savior was the RESPERATOR, that eliminated those fine particles.
______________________________________________________________________

As I'm working, I'm pondering the next steps regarding seat placement - open floor plan, gas can placement, seating, Bimini top & mount. It will be a 20 H.P. tiller drive w/ front mount electric motor (12v or 24v). Removing the front platform will be one of the first attacks, along with removing the transome and removing the factory primer.

.................... keep You posted. Please chime in for "Your tricks and tips" to make the rebuild last. It needs to be durable in salt water, and comfortable for crabbing and fishing for Speckled Trout & Rockfish.

NOV. 5th .........

Got below freezing last night - filled up the wood stove in the shop, and went to play ...... tearing down more of this rig.

Removed the rivets holding the transome angle brackets. Removed the hardware that attached the transome braces to the floor, and transome wall. Old transome came out in one piece. Looks like 3/4" & 1/2" bonded togeather will match the 1-1/4" needed to replace this. Need to address the cancer on the aluminum, where the transome plywood made contact.

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

Removed the rivets holding front platform, and rivets holding the seats to the boat sides.



Now I have a open workspace, to plan my attack & to be able to clean up loose material, buck rivets, seal rivets and paint. Also a open floor plan to apply the TREK flooring. (floor weight 245 lbs) -

 

[Jim]

Looks like you’ve done this before!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

Jim - never did one from start to finish .... but have done plenty of repair ... enjoying the challenge, and research put into making it happen. GREAT SITE TO REAP THE KNOWLEDGE OF OTHERS!!!

Had this bad spot along the top rail line, where a large branch made it's mark. The vote was to weld it, and I agree. One suggestion was to perhaps cut a section out, and rework the rail. I gave that some serious thought, but wanted to try a few tricks.

BEFORE:



AFTER:




Move on to the transome, before I pull out the MIG.

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

It does not take long for the "grocery list" to add up. Starting with a $1200 JON BOAT. Already had the trailer - so no actual cost there ($600 would be a value). New motor(s) - gas & electric = 1/2 the total cost.
Some items have not been received, so no price as of yet. (project is still under construction) -

$10,500 looks to be the total cost - boat, trailer, motors, bimini top, etc, etc
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Fuel Tank - $70.00 - ☆☆☆
Moller Vented Fuel Cap #621501-10 - $21.00 - ☆☆☆
Tightbond III - $9.00 ☆☆☆
Running Lights - $23.00 - ☆☆☆
Fire Extenisher - $24.00 - on list
Throw Cushion -  $18.00 - ☆☆☆
Silhouette - Grass & Cattails - $86.00 - ☆☆☆
Chairs(2) @ $60 ea - on list
Chair Mounts @ $35 + pedestal - on list
Handles (4) - Front & Rear Mount - ☆☆☆
Anchor w/Rope (anchor - $.00) ☆☆☆
Trailer Bunk Carpet w/ hardware $95.00 - ☆☆☆
Treak Wood for floor $282.00 - ☆☆☆                             
Rod Holders - on list
Spray Paint for Silhouette (   ) - $ - on list
Bilge Pump - $52 - ☆☆☆
90° - 3/4" thru hull fitting - $12 ☆☆☆
Batteries @ $167.00 on list
Stainless Steel Transome Bolts & Nuts
Tow Rope - on list
12 volt power supply - on list
Fish Finder - on list
3-1/16 x 4-5/8" U bolts 2 - @ $23.00 pair  -  ☆☆☆
Muric acid - 1 gal. - @ $10.00 - ☆☆☆
Measuring Cups 32 oz. -  $16.00 -  ☆☆☆
12 PHENOLIC ROLLERS $20.00 -  ☆☆☆
Spray bottle -  ☆☆☆
J.B. WELD $16.00 -  ☆☆☆
MARINE TEX GLUV IT (RM330K) - 2 lbs - $65.00 -  ☆☆☆
MARINE TEX (RM305K) - 2 oz. - $20 ☆☆☆
G FLEX APOXY - $30.00  ☆☆☆
80 & 100 GRIT ORBITAL SAND PAPER - $20.00 -  ☆☆☆
RESIGN/POLYBASED PIGMENT (4 - 2 oz) $50.00  ☆☆☆
Respirator w/filters - $62.00 ☆☆☆
S.S. screws for angle iron [trailer] - $15.00  ☆☆☆
Angle Iron/ lagg bolts [trailer] - $217.00 ☆☆☆
Steel Flex 9X with rollers, etc. $357.00 ☆☆☆
Asscertone $20.00 -  ☆☆☆
AIRCRAFAT RIVET ANVIL $25.00  ☆☆☆
5 inch body filler spreaders (10 pack) - $11.00 ☆☆☆
Stir stixs  - $8.00  ☆☆☆
HEAT GUN - BLACK & DECKER - $30.00  ☆☆☆
AIR RIVET SET (5 pc) - $14.00 ☆☆☆
Disco #541-778-4  4"Wheel Brush #120 grit (5) - $50.00  ☆☆☆
S.S. Trans. Bkts /Angle - bolts/nuts - $23.00  ☆☆☆
Drill Bits 3/16(5) - $20.00  ☆☆☆
J/C's Brazier 1/4" & 3/16" x 3/8" rivets - $46.00   ☆☆☆
1-1/4" × 1-1/4" × 1/16" × 48" aliumium angle (2) - $28.00 ☆☆☆
Lloyd's rivet removal tool - $150 -  ☆☆☆                                                    J.C's Rivets - 200 3/16 × 3/8 & 200 3/16 × 1/2 - $64.00 - ☆☆☆   
White Vinegar  - $6.00 - ☆☆☆
LUMBER: 2 - 2" X 12" X 8' lumber - $28 ; 2 - 1/2" X 4' X 8' foam - $38 1 - 23/32" X 4' X 8' plywood - $43 ; 2" X 10" X 8' - $14 = $123 ☆☆☆
RAGS - $18 ☆☆☆
S.S. Fastners - $28.00 ☆☆☆
PURPLE POWER ALIUMIUM BRIGHTNER  (3) - $51.00  ☆☆☆ 
Anti Sieze Lube - $23.00 ☆☆☆
S.S. 1/4" rubber backed washers - $12.00 ☆☆☆ 
LUND STORAGE BOXES (2) - $420.00 ☆☆☆       
boat @ $1200.00. ☆☆☆
YAMAHA @ $4000.00.                                                                             
Bimini Top - $450.00
Electric Motor - $1600

 

[LDUBS]

All of those parts and pieces really do add up!

Im curious about your choice of Trex decking. It is costly and heavy. You mentioned 245 lbs. I'm thinking that it being waterproof and pretty much maintenance free was why you went with Trex. And, I think a "planked" floor would look pretty good too. Like most things there is a trade-off.

Going to have a pretty nice boat when it is done.

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

Thanks for the "thumbs up". I feel the "TREX" will work nicely for this size boat. It may be a little bit lighter than the 245 lbs I stated - (not sure I'll use the whole 12 ft).
Pretty much on "lock down" due to the fluctuations in temperature. It's ranging from 30°'s at night to 60° in the daytime. So painting is off the "to do list" for awhile.
We still have the interior to sand, and water test the rivets in the floor. Then buck and seal the rivets that need attention.
Right now we are focusing on the transome. Made our cuts yesterday, and fitted them, to be sure we got it right.

Moved the transom to the house. (Wife not too thrilled). Needed the warm temperature for consistent temperature control in the laminating process. After laminating with TIGHTBOND III, I'll sand all the edges smooth. Then concentrate on getting a good dose of MARINE SPAR VARNISH on those edges, in multiple coats, as well as the surfaces of the transome.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Since your doing spar on the transom you might consider doing the Old timers formula for sealing the wood.

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

THANKS!!!!

would this be the proper approach? -

"Old timers formula is a mixture of 1 part oil based spar varnish, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts mineral spirits. You basically wash this over the wood on all sides until the wood doesn't absorb any more. The idea is you are thinning the varnish and linseed oil so that it penetrates deep into the wood and waterproofs it to the core. It takes a long time to dry, about 3 or 4 days. Then seal it tight with straight varnish. Approximately 4 to 5 coats on all sides, especially the edges. Sand lightly between coats. Sand lightly when you finish with the varnish. Then add a oil based paint - color of your choice."
______________________________________________________________________

If I am reading the statement that I "copied and pasted correctly above:

A). I'm guessing You would be using multiple coats of "OLD TIMERS" - allowing each coat to penetrate and dry, before the next coat.
Also -
2). When putting on the SPAR VARNISH - it would be multiple coats, with a light grit sanding between coats; for Adhesive-Abrasion, to make long lasting contact.

 

[Kismet]

BB? You are presenting a work study in how to do it correctly.

Nice to read and see.

Thank you.

 

[Joey Bagels]

New to the site, but I just had to pop in and say this is AWESOME! I’m a huge fan of repairing and restoring old things and it looks like this will be a great thread as your work continues. Lots of great stuff already. Thanks for this!

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

THANKS!!!!

would this be the proper approach? -

"Old timers formula is a mixture of 1 part oil based spar varnish, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts mineral spirits. You basically wash this over the wood on all sides until the wood doesn't absorb any more. The idea is you are thinning the varnish and linseed oil so that it penetrates deep into the wood and waterproofs it to the core. It takes a long time to dry, about 3 or 4 days. Then seal it tight with straight varnish. Approximately 4 to 5 coats on all sides, especially the edges. Sand lightly between coats. Sand lightly when you finish with the varnish. Then add a oil based paint, then add color of your choice."
______________________________________________________________________

If I am reading the statement that I "copied and pasted correctly above:

A). I'm guessing You would be using multiple coats of "OLD TIMERS" - allowing each coat to penetrate and dry, before the next coat.
Also -
2). When putting on the SPAR VARNISH - it would be multiple coats, with a light grit sanding between coats; for Adhesive-Abrasion, to make long lasting contact.

You don't apply old timers in coats you apply it all at once on one side until it puddles on the wood, wipe off the excess and apply to the edges. Then flip it over and apply it to the other side until it puddles then wipe up the excess and more on the edges. Then let it dry 72 hours or more.
I recently sealed a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" BCX plywood, it can be MESSY!

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

BIG THANKS ON THE CLARIFICATION!!!!!

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

One thing I do is take 4 pieces of cut off deck board and put a deck screw through them. Then when I flip the wood I put it on the point of the deck screws to hold it up off my work table.

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

Lckstckn - thanks for the "tip" & a great idea. I employed it, when I did the transom coating with "THE OLD TIMERS FORMULA". Got kicked out of the house with my transome , being we will be having warmer temperatures today, and I stunk up the house ...... so back to the shop. We were blessed today with 70°+ temperatures. It will drop down to the 30°'s tonight ...... but thats Virginia. Went ahead and put flood lights on both projects after I was done, to maintain a temperature to aid in drying.
Transome had already been sanded multiple times with #80 to #220 grit paper.
Vacuumed and prepped the transome with DAWN SOAP. Cleaned that up, and used distilled WHITE VINEGAR to acid wash the transome. Cleaned the area again with a clean rag, did another wipe down with ASCETONE.
Let it dry, and hit the area with RUSTOLEUM ETCHED PRIMER.
After the primer cured, I painted the area with multiple coats of Rustoleum aliumium oil based paint.

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

From prior to my purchase, it looks like outboards have played havoc on the transome aluminum skin, both interior and exterior. The aliumium has been marred and is no longer flat. I have lightly sanded the area, but I'm scared to go much further. Creating a void here would weaken the transome ..... and not make Me happy. I am going to apply Marine Tex RM 305K ..... and smooth that area out to a thin layer, and bring it to a zero grade, so it will transition to the transom, Let it dry and sand. Give it the same treatment on both interior and exterior.
Exterior:

Interior:




I am planning on fabricating a solid piece of aluminum (1/8 thickness) - on a 40 inch wide channel. The channel will go across the top of the original transome (see above "EXTERIOR PIC" ). It will be 1-3/8"wide. On each side (interior and exterior); I am welding 1/8" aliumium plates to the 40 inch channel. These too will be 40 inches wide and a depth of 10+ inches. This will be on both interior and exterior of the transome. Hoping from suggestions regarding the scarred up factory transome, that these plates will add more "meat" to the effected area. The following picture is a example:


Looking forward to Ya'lls thoughts ......

[picture of blue transome plates; credit: TINY BOAT NATION]

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

Changed gears regarding the floor. More I thought about it, the more I researched. I have come to the conclusion that individual floor boards will flex vs a solid floor. Also how slick the Trex would be when wet. And the 100 lb extra weight. So I am going with a 10 ft section of .190 #5052 aliumium sheet. Working on a "GO FUND ME PAGE" ........ price tag of my aliumium floor is $490. Got $485 more to go.
We are now feeling the effects of winter on the East Coast. The variation in night and day temperatures, makes it difficult to make a plan that regards paint, varnish, epoxy, or anything that wants a controlled temperature at 70°. Started the woodstove at daybreak. Got the shop at 70° around 10 am. Been keeping flood lights on various projects 24/7, to aid in keeping both the surface I'm working and the martial at the desired temperature.
Steady working, but not much to show. Transom has dried from the OLD TIMERS FORMULA (7 days). Started with the light sanding (180 grit) today, and applied the first thin coat on one side, with 50/50 mineral spirits and Spar Varnish.
Threw more wood in the stove .......
Sanded the rivet holes on the boat, where the front seat came out (and not going back). Used white vinegar and cleaned the rivet holes and the area around it. Cleaned with dove soap. Dried them, and hit them with acetone. Put duc tape on the inside of the boat at the holes. Mixed up J.B. weld, and worked the holes from the outside. Smoothed them on the outside. Did the same thing to the seat that came out of the front of the boat. The front seat was the better of the two (front and rear). So I'll keep the holes in the boat, where the rear seat was riveted, and drill new holes in the front seat flanges to match the rear holes. Sanded, cleaned and primed inside the bench seat. Put two coats of Rustoleum alium paint on the inside skin. Threw more wood in the stove ...... Cut, primed, and added first coat of paint to the 2 X's, that will be inside the rear seat. Framing the inside to add some support for the seat Mounts. Will cut foam, and fill the void that will be left, and seal the seat bottom with aluminum flashing (seat does not touch the floor).
Threw one more load of wood in the stove ....... and call it a day.

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

Took advantage of the warmer temperatures. Getting where I am now placing 100% spar varnish down, between sanding.

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

Still taking advantage of these warm days. 70° today ..... and 40°'s forecasted for next week.
Today I decided to wet test the rivets or any other voids on the bottom. Forked it off the trailer, added water ....... and only one leak. Not a rivet, but a spot where it has been beached too many times. When the boat gets flipped, special attention to that area with J.B. weld.
Still applying multiple coats of Spar to the transom, and the board that will go on the rear seat.

 

[BAY BEAGLE]

Like many folks, cold weather has Me doing smaller projects, and accumulating inventory while stock is available. Built a exterior 1/8th" transom plate to go over my boat's transom. This will add more meat, and strengthen the whole width and lip.


Throwing coats after coats of Spar varnish on my wood - I'm at 11 coats now ..... doubt I'll have wood rot .....



Working on some cosmetic spots with "marine tex", and filling a few more voids with J.B. Weld.
Starting to build out the front platform. Looks like I'll have enough space for my batteries, and isolate the fuel tank and storage for life vests, and anchor. Able to have room for two latch doors on left & right side top section. Room to build out a pedestal seat support under front platform. Cut out a oval on the face of platform for removal and ventilation of fuel tank.

Still working on the rear bench seat. It will have a skeleton of 2 x 6's framed inside to support pedestal seat. Also working on a small side mount console, to handle switches, depth/chart plotter, and other electrical paraphernalia.
Hope it will not take long, to get approved for a bank loan, for my 4' x 12' aliumium floor plate. (it grew from 4 x 10 to 4 x 12 ....... just like my boat budget)
Got both STEEL-FLEX and DURABAK paints on hand -


Small steps now ...... but the list is slowly getting "marked off".

My "NEW" Lungs reached their 6 month anniversary today!!!!!