benjineer
Well-known member
Nice job! Love the tackle locker! I was thinking of something similar also. Makes me want to get to work on mine again!
TinBoats.net
The original aluminum boat site!
1976 Lund S-14 Mod
- Thread starter jdsgrog
- Start date
Help Support TinBoats.net:
Thanks, benjineer. At this point, I'm just wanting to get this project done and then take a break for a while. Then we'll see what mid summer will be like...maybe I'll get the itch to do more with the boat.
As for the tackle locker, I've thought of a lot of different ideas and finally settled on the tackle locker. I'm not crazy about tackle boxes/bags. They take up a lot of valuable floor space. I was thinking about putting in market tackle lockers, but with market tackle lockers, they are expensive, limited in how much you can carry, and the one's I looked at wouldn't have fit. I'm also planning to fabricate a "tool band" to hold necessary tools at arm's reach. Again, not crazy about market tool holders. I'll see how that goes. There's a few other little details I'm thinking of that you just don't find in most production boats that will help make this boat much more functional both when used on water and when trailering equipment.
As for the tackle locker, I've thought of a lot of different ideas and finally settled on the tackle locker. I'm not crazy about tackle boxes/bags. They take up a lot of valuable floor space. I was thinking about putting in market tackle lockers, but with market tackle lockers, they are expensive, limited in how much you can carry, and the one's I looked at wouldn't have fit. I'm also planning to fabricate a "tool band" to hold necessary tools at arm's reach. Again, not crazy about market tool holders. I'll see how that goes. There's a few other little details I'm thinking of that you just don't find in most production boats that will help make this boat much more functional both when used on water and when trailering equipment.
Well, I finally finished the modification - at least for now. There are probably a few minor details I'll probably take care of as well as a new paint job. But for now I'm done for a few months...maybe until fall.
Here are some pics and comments of the finished product.
Here are some pics and comments of the finished product.
Well, I finally finished the modification - at least for now. There are probably a few minor details I'll probably take care of as well as a new paint job. But for now I'm done for a few months...maybe until fall.
Here are some pics and comments of the finished product.
Here are some pics and comments of the finished product.
Attachments
-
Front of Cockpit and strap eyes.JPG -
Battery Compartments.JPG -
Casting deck.JPG -
Port Deck.JPG -
Starboard Storage.JPG -
Starboard Deck-Rod holder.JPG -
Instruments.JPG -
Rod holder-starboard.JPG -
Tool Holder.JPG -
Middle Tackle Compartment.JPG -
Tackle Locker open.JPG -
Tackle Lockers-closed hatches.JPG -
View of Cockpit.JPG -
Rear View.JPG -
View of boat from bow.JPG
benjineer
Well-known member
Wow! Nice job! Is the port side box accessible? I'm working on mine again. Hopefully will post some new pics soon.
Thanks, all. It feels good that I got things done before my fishing trip next week. Just need to do a couple things with the motor and on the water she goes.
Benjineer, no, the port side is not accessible. I closed that off because that is where all my wiring is located and I didn't want all the shifting of things potentially pulling off connections. I was thinking about making it accessible from the middle seat, but personally, I just didn't feel the need for it. Though there may be a chance that I may make a small "glove compartment" that comes out from the side for lake maps and stuff.
Benjineer, no, the port side is not accessible. I closed that off because that is where all my wiring is located and I didn't want all the shifting of things potentially pulling off connections. I was thinking about making it accessible from the middle seat, but personally, I just didn't feel the need for it. Though there may be a chance that I may make a small "glove compartment" that comes out from the side for lake maps and stuff.
Froggy
Well-known member
Great job man! you trust these rod holder extentions...
yes, the rod holder extensions are solid. Wasn't exactly sure what to expect, but they got good reviews on cabelas (4.8 out of 5.0 from 35 reviewers). When I received them, they were thicker and stronger than I expected. I don't know if you have used the cabelas rod holders, but they are very good quality. The extensions are great quality as well.
This is just a report after taking the boat on water to my annual trip up north. Sorry, no pics-forgot to bring a camera.
The boat performed well, though I lost about 1.5mph on the top end. It's likely due to the extra weight of the aluminum and wood, but no big deal as I usually only go wide open when I am getting on plane. But it really sat well in the water, and even in choppier waves, it seems to ride better than before the modification. Had a lot more confidence during a 15-17mph wind.
The "fishability" of the boat due to the layout change was significant. Everything was easily accessible without fumbling for tools, tackle, etc. The "side boxes" I made were a blessing in disguise as they not only functioned well for storage, but also as a step to get into the boat, temporary seating, and also as a table to lay my boxes down while rigging my rods. Access to the front deck was also great. The Kwikdrop pedestal was really convenient as well. I'm also glad I put the side braces back in (btw if you didn't notice, I actually shortened and straightened them). They ended up holding my net without it getting in the way while fishing and also good to have the dock lines tied to them. As for the tackle locker and tool holder, those were the best ideas yet. Really cleared up the space that a tackle bag/box would use, and made finding tackle so much easier as "everything had its place."
So what did I catch? I caught a handful of crappies, kept four ranging from 10-12 inches for a meal. Also caught a handful of gills and a couple of dink bass while fishing for crappie. One of the bass was the smallest I ever caught--couldn't be more than 6 inches. Wasn't in the mood for "hunting" for pike nor going out in the middle of the night for walleye, so I was happy with what I got.
I've got to make a few minor tweaks to the boat and I'm thinking about fabricating splash guards for the transom so I could back troll without getting gallons of water into the boat. Also, I'm planning on repainting the boat. So, I'll keep everyone posted in the upcoming months.
The boat performed well, though I lost about 1.5mph on the top end. It's likely due to the extra weight of the aluminum and wood, but no big deal as I usually only go wide open when I am getting on plane. But it really sat well in the water, and even in choppier waves, it seems to ride better than before the modification. Had a lot more confidence during a 15-17mph wind.
The "fishability" of the boat due to the layout change was significant. Everything was easily accessible without fumbling for tools, tackle, etc. The "side boxes" I made were a blessing in disguise as they not only functioned well for storage, but also as a step to get into the boat, temporary seating, and also as a table to lay my boxes down while rigging my rods. Access to the front deck was also great. The Kwikdrop pedestal was really convenient as well. I'm also glad I put the side braces back in (btw if you didn't notice, I actually shortened and straightened them). They ended up holding my net without it getting in the way while fishing and also good to have the dock lines tied to them. As for the tackle locker and tool holder, those were the best ideas yet. Really cleared up the space that a tackle bag/box would use, and made finding tackle so much easier as "everything had its place."
So what did I catch? I caught a handful of crappies, kept four ranging from 10-12 inches for a meal. Also caught a handful of gills and a couple of dink bass while fishing for crappie. One of the bass was the smallest I ever caught--couldn't be more than 6 inches. Wasn't in the mood for "hunting" for pike nor going out in the middle of the night for walleye, so I was happy with what I got.
I've got to make a few minor tweaks to the boat and I'm thinking about fabricating splash guards for the transom so I could back troll without getting gallons of water into the boat. Also, I'm planning on repainting the boat. So, I'll keep everyone posted in the upcoming months.
plt3145
Active member
WOW! THAT WAS TRULY INSPIRING AND A BIG CONFIDENCE BOOSTER
i only have a 12 ftr, but I am getting some great ideas!
i only have a 12 ftr, but I am getting some great ideas!
fool4fish1226
Well-known member
Great build =D> well thought out
LonLB
Well-known member
Just noticed this was last updated by the O.P. in may of last year.
Hopefully he will drop in again. Curious how the splashguards on the transom went.
This was a nice build. I like the tackle storage.
Hopefully he will drop in again. Curious how the splashguards on the transom went.
This was a nice build. I like the tackle storage.
Hey, all.
Just thought I'd chime in since people have taken a look at my project. Unfortunately, I never had the time to get around to making those splash guards.
But someone pm'd me asking me how I did the framing for the casting deck. Since I didn't have any pictures, I sent him a couple of diagrams I made. My deck is sort of a "floating deck" in which the main supports are the two original front bench seats. The front of the deck is kept in place by the trolling motor deck and the rear of the deck is secured to the original bench #2 from the bow.
Anyway, if any of you are interested, below are the diagrams in pdf format.
Just thought I'd chime in since people have taken a look at my project. Unfortunately, I never had the time to get around to making those splash guards.
But someone pm'd me asking me how I did the framing for the casting deck. Since I didn't have any pictures, I sent him a couple of diagrams I made. My deck is sort of a "floating deck" in which the main supports are the two original front bench seats. The front of the deck is kept in place by the trolling motor deck and the rear of the deck is secured to the original bench #2 from the bow.
Anyway, if any of you are interested, below are the diagrams in pdf format.
tripwirenh
Active member
Speechless...I believe I may try and duplicate this once I purchase my buddies S-14 for $1000. Old trailer and 80's 20hp Johnson. Only mod is a carpeted front deck. Seems to be a good deal.
Couple quick questions.
What size aluminum angle was used for framing? (1-1/2 x 1/8)? Also, where did you get the aluminum? Looking to save $$
What fasteners were used (aluminum rivets)?
I looked at your diagram of the front deck...how was the hatch lip created? Meaning, if you step in the middle of the hatch, what is keeping you from falling into your deck? Based on the diagram, it seems like a 1x2 glued?
I'd appreciate the help. This looks like an economical way to have a great boat. My buddy will be jealous when I finish. Currently I have a 14' sears with mods similar to your first mod. It is just too small compared to the Lund. The Lund will be deeper and have a wider beam.
Couple quick questions.
What size aluminum angle was used for framing? (1-1/2 x 1/8)? Also, where did you get the aluminum? Looking to save $$
What fasteners were used (aluminum rivets)?
I looked at your diagram of the front deck...how was the hatch lip created? Meaning, if you step in the middle of the hatch, what is keeping you from falling into your deck? Based on the diagram, it seems like a 1x2 glued?
I'd appreciate the help. This looks like an economical way to have a great boat. My buddy will be jealous when I finish. Currently I have a 14' sears with mods similar to your first mod. It is just too small compared to the Lund. The Lund will be deeper and have a wider beam.
Gators5220
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2011
- Messages
- 768
- Reaction score
- 0
Nice build brother =D> , what size is that johnson pushin it? Looks like a 25 or larger? Well thought out build super clean nice job!
tripwirenh,
These old lunds are great and they handle really well in the water. I don't think you will be disappointed. To answer your questions:
1. I used 1 1/2 by 1/8 aluminum angle. I initially used the 6061 for the sole because it is better for structural support, but to butt the joints together well, i had to grind/file the ends to match the curvature. For the framing on the seats/boxes, I used 6063. Much easier to work with since all angles are 90 degrees. I bought my stuff from https://www.speedymetals.com and https://www.onlinemetals.com. Not sure if they are the best prices now, but they were when I researched during my build. One thing to note, buying online has good costs, but you have to factor in shipping especially for pieces that are larger than 3 or 4 feet long. But the nice thing about these sites is that they do occasionally have 20-30 percent off sales. Also, if you live near a metal wholesaler, then picking up at will call will save on shipping.
2. I used both aluminum pop rivets and stainless steel screws and construction screws. I riveted the 1/2 inch plywood sole and the side panels to the frames, and to join angle pieces together (that is anywhere aluminum joined aluminum). I used stainless steel screws with lock washers (for extra security) to anchor the aluminum angle that was attached to the sole for the boxes and the rear seat. I also used stainless steel screws for attaching the box tops and the rear bench top to the aluminum angle because I couldn't find pop rivets with the proper shaft length. For the front deck which is joined onto the wood bench seat top, I used #10 or #12 construction screws.
3. You have it right on the hatch lip. I simply glued either a 1x2 or a 1x3. Can't remember the size. Definitely a wider board will give more surface area for the glue to stick.
4. One last thing, for the tackle locker, I used 1x1x1/8 6063 aluminum angle. I think i used a 3/4x1/8 bar as a rear "stop" to keep the tackle utility boxes flush with each other and to keep them from moving around.
I will say, I'm not sure how economical it really was. Definitely cheaper than getting a new boat or even a used boat with the same features. In the end, it's really not about economics because once you get started, you are always thinking of something new you can add. The nice thing about doing your own mod, you can customize it the way you want. Also, you have to account for accessories. Just the new seats and their hardware must have run about $400 and I got the seats for 30 percent off.
One last thing, I'm sure the boat will run fine with the 20hp, but when you add all the stuff onto the boat, you will likely add at least 100-150 lbs to the boat. While the boat is a lot more stable in rougher waters with the mod because of weight, I definitely lost some top end on speed. With my '67 Johnson 33hp (equivalent to a modern 25-28hp), I was getting a top speed about 26-27mph with the first mod, but it went down to about 23-24mph on the top end with this mod (25mph if I am going with the current/wind).
These old lunds are great and they handle really well in the water. I don't think you will be disappointed. To answer your questions:
1. I used 1 1/2 by 1/8 aluminum angle. I initially used the 6061 for the sole because it is better for structural support, but to butt the joints together well, i had to grind/file the ends to match the curvature. For the framing on the seats/boxes, I used 6063. Much easier to work with since all angles are 90 degrees. I bought my stuff from https://www.speedymetals.com and https://www.onlinemetals.com. Not sure if they are the best prices now, but they were when I researched during my build. One thing to note, buying online has good costs, but you have to factor in shipping especially for pieces that are larger than 3 or 4 feet long. But the nice thing about these sites is that they do occasionally have 20-30 percent off sales. Also, if you live near a metal wholesaler, then picking up at will call will save on shipping.
2. I used both aluminum pop rivets and stainless steel screws and construction screws. I riveted the 1/2 inch plywood sole and the side panels to the frames, and to join angle pieces together (that is anywhere aluminum joined aluminum). I used stainless steel screws with lock washers (for extra security) to anchor the aluminum angle that was attached to the sole for the boxes and the rear seat. I also used stainless steel screws for attaching the box tops and the rear bench top to the aluminum angle because I couldn't find pop rivets with the proper shaft length. For the front deck which is joined onto the wood bench seat top, I used #10 or #12 construction screws.
3. You have it right on the hatch lip. I simply glued either a 1x2 or a 1x3. Can't remember the size. Definitely a wider board will give more surface area for the glue to stick.
4. One last thing, for the tackle locker, I used 1x1x1/8 6063 aluminum angle. I think i used a 3/4x1/8 bar as a rear "stop" to keep the tackle utility boxes flush with each other and to keep them from moving around.
I will say, I'm not sure how economical it really was. Definitely cheaper than getting a new boat or even a used boat with the same features. In the end, it's really not about economics because once you get started, you are always thinking of something new you can add. The nice thing about doing your own mod, you can customize it the way you want. Also, you have to account for accessories. Just the new seats and their hardware must have run about $400 and I got the seats for 30 percent off.
One last thing, I'm sure the boat will run fine with the 20hp, but when you add all the stuff onto the boat, you will likely add at least 100-150 lbs to the boat. While the boat is a lot more stable in rougher waters with the mod because of weight, I definitely lost some top end on speed. With my '67 Johnson 33hp (equivalent to a modern 25-28hp), I was getting a top speed about 26-27mph with the first mod, but it went down to about 23-24mph on the top end with this mod (25mph if I am going with the current/wind).
@tripwirenh
I needed to correct something from my last post the more I thought about it. When it came to the lip for the hatch, I actually remembered that I actually used a single rectangular 3/4 inch plywood piece that was a couple of inches per side larger than the hatch opening. In the plywood, I would then cut a rectangular "hole" that was smaller than the hatch opening so it would create a 3/4 inch lip when glued and centered under the hatch opening. I did this because I figure that the lip would be more stable and secure than using four individual pieces of wood.
I needed to correct something from my last post the more I thought about it. When it came to the lip for the hatch, I actually remembered that I actually used a single rectangular 3/4 inch plywood piece that was a couple of inches per side larger than the hatch opening. In the plywood, I would then cut a rectangular "hole" that was smaller than the hatch opening so it would create a 3/4 inch lip when glued and centered under the hatch opening. I did this because I figure that the lip would be more stable and secure than using four individual pieces of wood.
Gators5220
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2011
- Messages
- 768
- Reaction score
- 0
Nice 33hp 2 or 3 cylinder? It should fly for sure....
