1977 Fisher 15/38 project (updated 10/11/14)

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I rebuilt the internal wiring harness, not the external one. I had to cut back some of the connector in order to get to some clean non corroded wire in order to get a good connection. If you start stripping your wires and find it's corroded all the way back to the pins in the connector, it's probably beyond being rebuilt.
 
OK, it's been a while since I updated this build so I thought I'd try to get it up to date. I've been using the boat so much to go fishing with when the weather permits that I haven't gotten as far along as I'd like to but I have made progress. I read where some have concerns about how foam can trap water because of the lack of airflow. I decided to try to help that situation by cutting a checker board grove pattern in the bottom side of the bottom piece of foam for each section of the boat.

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After getting all my foam installed it was time to start with the new aluminum floor to cover and hold the foam in place.

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Once I had the floor in, I cut and test fitted the wood top for my rear deck.

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After temporarily reinstalling the original seats, I took the boat out on a few fishing trips. After that, I decided to install the switch, wiring, and solenoid, in order to take advantage of the electric starter that the motor came with.

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The next step was to fabricate some new aluminum side panels. I decided to use some tan colored textured PVC coated aluminum.

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A few fishing trips later, and I decided that it was time to get the rear deck built. I decided to go smaller than my initial plans since I wanted to be able to look down into the rear floor area without having to raise any hatches. I had seen in another build thread where someone had used an aluminum ladder for their framework, and decided to copy their idea since I knew where a junk ladder was. The remainder of the frame work was done with 1"x1"x1/8" aluminum angle.

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I fabricated the front wall out of the same aluminum used on the floor. I cut a hatch for the rear section and installed the cover temporarily with an old brass plated hinge I had laying around.

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Current plans are to make a large fold down panel in the center of the front wall which will give me easier access to whatever is under the front portion of the rear deck. I haven't decided whether I will install a center divider wall to keep the fuel tank area separate from the front, but I definitely plan on adding a back wall.

I'm currently waiting on my new seats and hardware to arrive so I can install them. My next priority item that I want to get finished is the switch panel and wiring of the boat.
 
Looking great! Thanks for reminding me about the aluminum ladder idea, I too had seen it on another build and nearly forgot! Now if only I can find a junk one.... :D
 
I just bought this same boat....(1976 though)..... How's the build coming along?

My build.... https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26730

I just started the thread today... Have more done that what I'm showing at this point..hoping for good weather tomorrow so that I can lay my flooring...What thickness of plywood did you use on the decking and how well does it hold you weight? Thank you.
 
JMichael said:
After 2.5 days of non stop rain, we finally got a day of sunshine. It took me the best part of the afternoon to locate a source for my aluminum but I finally found it. I picked up 75 feet of 6061-T6 angle for just under $1 per foot. It might not be enough to complete the job but should be enough to do most of it. I plan to clean the inside tomorrow and see about raising the transom an 1 inch.

Since I'm restricted to working outside in the elements, this is going to be a drawn out process.



Where did you find aluminum at that price? I have an 20' aluminum ladder that has been sitting behind my shed for some time bc it broke so I will be using that. I would like to grab some angled stock to frame up my storage boxes though.
 
looks great!! like the use of the ladder thats a great idea. what did you coat your rear deck with or did you fiberglass it?
 
Mike?

You've got some skills!

Very nicely done, and clean look to the boat, although I kinda like the "custom" bases currently on the boat.

I'm a bit jealous of your talents.


Be safe.
 
11B3G said:
Where did you find aluminum at that price? I have an 20' aluminum ladder that has been sitting behind my shed for some time bc it broke so I will be using that. I would like to grab some angled stock to frame up my storage boxes though.

I haven't done a lot more to the boat than what is currently showing. I did install the new rear seat and base but it's gotten so miserably hot outside now that I haven't tried to do much more with it for now. I'll resume with the front deck early this fall most likely but for now I'm just fishing with it whenever weather permits.

I got my aluminum angle stock at a bulk metal sales place that was located about 35 miles from my home. I found out about them when I stopped at a metal fabrication shop to see about buying metal from them. They informed me where they buy their material from and I went there. The plywood I used is ½" exterior rated plywood. I weigh over 250lbs and mine holds my weight just fine when standing/walking around on it. As long as you have adequate support/bracing under the wood, the ½ works great.


scsdiver said:
looks great!! like the use of the ladder thats a great idea. what did you coat your rear deck with or did you fiberglass it?

That is 3 coats of spar varnish. Current plans are to put a coat of Tuff Coat on the floor and decks once I have the front deck built.



Kismet said:
Mike?

You've got some skills!

Very nicely done, and clean look to the boat, although I kinda like the "custom" bases currently on the boat.

I'm a bit jealous of your talents.


Be safe.

Thanks for the compliments. I just didn't like how much floor space the original bases took up vs. the new pin type pedestals and I like the ability to pull the post out and put the seat back in the same location but 15" lower than it was.
 
Will the tough coat bond to the spar? I just layed my second coat of spar on my plywood...wanted to do tough coat or grizzly or something like that but a friend said the tough coat wouldnt bond to the spar. Just curious.
 
I'm not sure how well that is going to work but since it sticks to aluminum and fiberglass, I don't see why it wouldn't stick to the varnish also as long as the surface is roughed up so it can stick to it. I guess if the varnish ever peels or comes lose from the plywood that means the tuff coat will as well.
 
I haven't updated in a while because I haven't done a whole lot to my boat. I did finally install the exterior handles on the transom, and I installed a pin style base on the rear deck and one of the 2 new seats that I picked up. I also picked up the pin/pedestal hardware for the front when I get the front deck finished.

Most of what I've done this summer regarding boats has been making mods to my brothers trailer. He wanted to replace his aging 8" 4 lug tires/wheels with something better suited for the highway. He's not mechanically inclined, so I replaced his axle, hub's and wheels with a new 5 lug 13" setup. After using that setup for the summer, he discovered his boat was too high off the ground and he was having to back down the ramp too far before his boat floated. The solution I've come up with was to switch the axle from an under spring setup to an over spring. That lowered the boat a little over 3". Next we removed the on edge mounted bunks and brackets and I welded tabs directly to the trailer to allow him to mount his bunks flat. That will lower the boat an additional 2½ - 3". He'll be putting the last coat of varnish on the new bunks today and painting them black. I hope to get the bunks mounted and then install my home made bunk slicks. I haven't taken any pics of any of this work but plan to get a pic of the final. The only problems encountered so far is that his axle is narrow enough that the tires are very close to the boat now. So close in fact that I may not have room to re mount the fenders. #-o
I think the next thing I'll have to talk him into doing is to extend the trailer tongue so we can pull the boat farther forward so that his transom is resting on the bunks. Currently, it only comes up so the last rib between the rear bench and transom is sitting on the back edge of the bunks.
 
This is my brothers trailer after the mods. These are home made bunk slicks. We have a local factory that makes large plastic tanks (6000 gal +) and a friend of mine gave me a sheet of the plastic they make. After cutting the strips to width, I ran it through my thickness planar to make the sides smoother. After it was all finished, we put the boat back on the trailer and I could slide the boat around with 1 hand so they are pretty slick. We started adding the slicks to my trailer as well but ran out of time so we'll finish up tomorrow. Between flipping the axle to the top side of the springs, laying the bunks on side vs edge, and eliminating the bunk brackets that held the bunks above the frame, I estimate the boat rides 6-7 inches lower than before.

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Thanks for showing all of this. I have read so far about people using the aluminum deck plates but this is the first time I have seen a large sheet of aluminum used. How thick is the aluminum? I see that it went below a raised wooden deck, but could tis same aluminum sheet be given a non skid surface and used as a walking surface?

I also see that you either riveted or screwed it, but can't tell which?

What size angle is that?
 
Jeffrey said:
Thanks for showing all of this. I have read so far about people using the aluminum deck plates but this is the first time I have seen a large sheet of aluminum used. How thick is the aluminum? I see that it went below a raised wooden deck, but could tis same aluminum sheet be given a non skid surface and used as a walking surface?

I also see that you either riveted or screwed it, but can't tell which?

What size angle is that?
The angle is 1 x 1 x 1/8th. The aluminum sheet is .052. The aluminum floor is riveted to the ribs. The original floor used screws and most of them had vibrated out or rusted in place. I plan on using a non skid product called Tuff Coat to cover the wood and aluminum surfaces with. It's more expensive than some other options but I like what I'm reading and hearing about it and think it will be worth the expense. Check the link.
 
Well the stars were in a favorable alignment for working on boats these last couple of days so..... OK, OK, so maybe that is a bunch of hooey about the stars but Mother Nature decided to smile on me and give me a couple of decent days for working outside. Temps in the low to mid 40's, dry, and no rain in the forecast. Between that and waiting on some material on my current job, I got to do a little work on the boat. I spent more time trying to figure out where and exactly how I was going to construct what I wanted but I'm almost there now. Anyways, I spent several hours framing up my front deck. What I've decided on so far is that I'll have a hatch on either side of the seat with the battery in the one on the left and the other will be for storage. So here's a few pics I took after I finished with the framing.

I can't figure out a good way to put a hatch in the front half, so I stuck some extra bracing in there and will leave it closed off for now. I may go back and change that later on after I fish with it like this for a while.

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As you can see, I used parts of a ladder again for my main cross pieces. I cut the rungs out of the ladder this time and just used the side pieces because I needed them farther apart for my battery compartment.

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The boat is looking good. It looks like that alumibrite worked very nice. I was looking for something to brighten up my gregor exterior hull, I will give it a try. What water ratio worked good for you? :)
 

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