1979 Landau 1648 transom replacement

[Drock]

Hello guys my name is Danny and I live in LaGrange, GA, I'm retired =D> and enjoying it highly recommend it.

First thanks to all of you for this forum and the interesting and wealth of knowledge expressed here.

I have been reading all kinds of posts the past few months with a main focus on transom replacement.
And now I'm confident I can do it. I have a 1979 Landau 1648 with a 1984 Jonson 25hp.
I have to figure out how to post the pictures yet.

Wish I could show pictures but not yet.
So far I have drilled out the rivets, removed the knee braces, removed the transom bottom support channel, removed the hull transom supports and was able to remove the rotting transom board intact (that was a relief for a pattern). I've had the knee braces welded back together at the top where they had started splitting in inside corner from the top down for 2".



Got a sheet of Georgia Pacific plywood BC 23/32" (EXTERIOR was stamped in large type on the back side).
Cut it down to a couple inches larger the finished size, lightly sanded the rough sides (glue side), cleaned off dust, laid on carport slab with newspaper under wood, drilled pilot hole for two screws on one end, squirted 8oz bottle of Titebond III all over bottom board (rough side up) and laid the top board down rough side to glue. Screwed the one end together to keep lined up and weighted down with 4 large automotive batteries maybe 60lbs. each and other heavy stuff. I did not remove the screws after glueing I think I read that screws should have been taken out after weight was in place.

Hope I'm not getting to detailed here.
All steps done to this point I've learned how to from you guys and I think that's pretty cool thanks.
Please offer any comments.
I'll post some questions soon.

 

[Johnny]

Drock - the reason for taking out the screws after the weight is applied
is so the panels can squeeze out the excess glue and provide an even bond.
if the screws are only on one end, no problem.
but if screws are all the way around, it "could" force the glue into the middle
of the panel and may not cure or dry properly - promoting an inefficient bond.
if any of the two part epoxies or resins are used, it doesn't matter as they do not
need air to cure properly.

good job so far !! photos of your adventure would be appreciated.
(if you are having problems posting photos now, at least document
your progress so that you can post them later on down the road).


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[Drock]

Thanks Johnny I've read a lot of your posts. I'll update soon.

 

[Drock]

Update and a couple questions, the transom board is cut to size, sanded and four edge voids filled with epoxy. Got the ingredients for mixing the old timers sealer and HD did not have spar varnish so got spar urethane, I understand from reading here ether or is good I plan to apply tomorrow.

I understand that after the saturating treatment of sealer and 3 or 4 coats of spar urethane that an epoxy coating in not needed. Any thoughts?

I've read up on using rivets and the different types for applications.
Rivets or SS bolts - I removed about 30 solid rivets and I'm looking at the pros and cons of each.
Rivets - barrow friends pneumatic hammer and make an attachment like I've seen someone here use with drilled out concave end as the hammer and make another one for the inside to hand hold tighten and flair the rivet. It seems like it may cost less for rivets then SS bolts, nuts, nylon washer and shrink-wrap.
If the cost for SS hardware is more I don't mind that if the repair is more friendly to a novice.

Any thoughts and opservation I'd appriciate and welcome your help.

Okay thats enough for now. Danny

 

[Johnny]

the varnish/poly mix will do you well.
keep in mind that epoxy is not UV tolerant so it must be either painted or spar varnish coated.


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[Drock]

Time to fill a few holes in transom skin and need your thoughts guys. (See transom skin photo)

I have a question about epoxy- are you guys using the 2 part tubes attached together with the plunger about .85oz container by Locktite, Gorilla Glue etc. or something else?

My thought is to clean the skin with white vinegar,
then patch holes using epoxy for metal and the aluminum can circle patch method (Johnny's),
sand patches smooth clean,
spray with etch & primer then oil base paint


Thanks

 

[nccatfisher]

You have the right idea with the epoxy but the wrong brand. You can buy the big tubes of the JB Weld or if you have a real big job you can go the commercial route and buy Bexane in pints. Whatever you do don't buy the 5 minute stuff. Contrary to promotion time does make a difference in that stuff as far as grade and adherence.

When you prep it make sure you get it clean but leave it slightly rough for it to adhere to. Around 100 grit for your final surface on prep.

 

[Johnny]

Danny - I don't see the skin photo.
vertical surfaces presents different challenges than the horizontal patches.
you must use a thickened epoxy so it won't run down the skin.
the optimum would be to stand the boat upright with the transom on the ground.
secondly: use a thickened epoxy that is the consistency of toothpaste or peanut butter.
Bondo and other body fillers will soon loosen due to their small expansion rate vs aluminum.
epoxy is more flexible which makes it the "go to" choice for aluminum.
like CatFisher said: the 5 minute stuff is only good for one or two holes. sets up really quick.
but - I use it because I have the time to do just one or two holes at a time vs the whole skin at one time.
the 30 minute double barrel syringe epoxy is fine if you have something to thicken it with.
some folks have used plain old baking flour and or wood dust from the belt sander collection bag as a thickener.
the preferred product is glass micro beads or colloidal silica thickening agent.

keep us in the loop





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