Starting '56 Johnson 30 on land on cold day.

[admirial_deluxe]

Just got a Lone Star Admiral with a '56 Johnson 30 HP on it.

It's freezing up here in Indiana so we did not start it when i took possession, but I was more interested in the boat so not a big deal. Seller said it ran a few months ago when he put it up for the winter and a quick pull on the starter cord showed it has some compression and the head etc looks clean but aged. i'm not as young and foolhardy as i used to be, so the idea is to start in the garage to make sure to work ~before~ I get on the water.

I've read that "motor muffs" won't work on this engine ( because the water intakes are not in the right place ?) Can anyone confirm this?

If that's the case, the next idea is to run it in a tub of some kind. I've got a couple ideas on how to do that but I would love to hear what other people have used.

Lastly, I'm looking for suggestions on the cold weather. Right now the plan is to stick a heating pad covered by blanket on the cylinders to get it warmed up. How concerned should I be about starting it when it's cold? Anyone want to hazard of ballpark guest on what temperature it should get up to before pulling that starter cord.

 

[airshot]

Cold won't be an issue unless extreme like zero or below. Once the test run is over, the motor will self drain, a couple pulls on the rope will make that drain for sure....one of the many pluses for outboard motors. In my area, folks keep their outboards in the water until the water starts to ice over.

 

[MrGiggles]

It should start up unassisted with air temps well into the 20's. 2 strokes are known for starting easily in the cold. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Once you're done, lift the motor up near horizontal, let the water drip out, then set it down all the way. I had an '83 25hp Rude that was bad about trapping water if you didn't raise it up first, all of them will trap some water if you don't let the motor down near vertical to drain fully.

 

[mbullen]

Cold doesn't bother a venerable 2-stroke.
As long as your cooling water isn't frozen, you're good to go. Also, you are correct in that muffs will not work.
The primary intake is the triangular extension right behind the prop. Any container will work as a test tank...barrel, trash can, etc. Just make sure that it's able to submerge the leg sufficiently to prime the pump.

For it's health inspection, start with a compression test. You're looking for numbers within 10% of each other. That result will justify throwing money at the other consumables. A typical update of all the expendable components is around $150-200. I like to start the clock over on all of them -regardless of current condition - for a reliable experience for the next 60 years.

Consider an update on coils, condensers, points, wires, boots, plugs, fuel lines, impeller, gear oil, and a carb kit. (Kits are also available for the magneto components and the impeller components to save a little money.) If you're not into spending the whole refresh, each of these components can be individually diagnosed for health.

It's a 24:1 motor, for what it's worth.
Any TC-W3 rated oil is sufficient, but some brands will smoke less than others. You'll have to ask your Javelin what it likes best.

 

[admirial_deluxe]

Great to hear that cold won't be an issue.
Is it correct to say that it would start easier in warmer temperatures? Or do the two strokes just not have any issue with cold at all

 

[admirial_deluxe]

Cold doesn't bother a venerable 2-stroke.
As long as your cooling water isn't frozen, you're good to go. Also, you are correct in that muffs will not work.
The primary intake is the triangular extension right behind the prop. Any container will work as a test tank...barrel, trash can, etc. Just make sure that it's able to submerge the leg sufficiently to prime the pump.

For it's health inspection, start with a compression test. You're looking for numbers within 10% of each other. That result will justify throwing money at the other consumables. A typical update of all the expendable components is around $150-200. I like to start the clock over on all of them -regardless of current condition - for a reliable experience for the next 60 years.

Consider an update on coils, condensers, points, wires, boots, plugs, fuel lines, impeller, gear oil, and a carb kit. (Kits are also available for the magneto components and the impeller components to save a little money.) If you're not into spending the whole refresh, each of these components can be individually diagnosed for health.

It's a 24:1 motor, for what it's worth.
Any TC-W3 rated oil is sufficient, but some brands will smoke less than others. You'll have to ask your Javelin what it likes best.

Thanks for the great information.

I plan to remove the engine and replace it with an ePropulsion Navy 6.0 10-hp electric equivalent.

I just want to know what the current status of the engine is for when I sell it.

 

[mbullen]

Thanks for the great information.

I plan to remove the engine and replace it with an ePropulsion Navy 6.0 10-hp electric equivalent.

I just want to know what the current status of the engine is for when I sell it.

If that's the case, vintage outboard guys are typically more interested in the compression numbers than anything.
They'll typically do the total rehab thing themselves, anyway. (expect to lose a couple of points for the non-factory paint job and the under-hood corrosion that suspiciously looks like the results of a rodent nest.)
However, for the random buyer, "running" is a definite plus.
With or without the required pressure tank is also a consideration. That motor doesn't have a fuel pump. It requires the dual line fuel tank to function.

 

[admirial_deluxe]

If that's the case, vintage outboard guys are typically more interested in the compression numbers than anything.
They'll typically do the total rehab thing themselves, anyway. (expect to lose a couple of points for the non-factory paint job and the under-hood corrosion that suspiciously looks like the results of a rodent nest.)
However, for the random buyer, "running" is a definite plus.
With or without the required pressure tank is also a consideration. That motor doesn't have a fuel pump. It requires the dual line fuel tank to function.

All good info. I've got a pressure tank with it.

"Rodents nest", eh? The ad will read something like "fits in well with the natural environment" lol

 

[mbullen]

All good info. I've got a pressure tank with it.

"Rodents nest", eh? The ad will read something like "fits in well with the natural environment" lol

Perfect. lol

To be fair, I'm just guessing. ...but I've got nearly 100 old motors for reference.

But I wouldn't worry about addressing it at all, really. Those that know will know, those that don't ... well it doesn't affect performance anyway.

Good luck with the sale!

 

[Pappy]

If you do decide to start the engine make sure you have the gearcase submerged far enough to cover the water pump entirely prior to starting.
When updating ignition on these engines I would recommend the points NOT be replaced as they are far and above better than what would be replacing them. Lightly dress the surfaces and re-set gap. No need to go in any farther on this topic since you are selling. Do not expect the engine to be a goldmine as far as what it will bring BUT,you have a one-year only engine in what appears to be good shape.

 

[AlanT]

It's a 24:1 motor, for what it's worth.
Any TC-W3 rated oil is sufficient, but some brands will smoke less than others. You'll have to ask your Javelin what it likes best.

What 2-stroke oils do you find smoke less than others? Just curious.

 

[mbullen]

What 2-stroke oils do you find smoke less than others? Just curious.

In my experience, it's not the oil, it's the motor.
"Ask your Javelin" means to experiment until you find the happy medium for that specific engine.

...if it means that much to you, anyway.

Personally, blue smoke doesn't bother me, but if I'm playing around, many of my motors prefer Amsoil.
However, I typically buy whatever is cheapest and roll with it. Usually Quicksilver.

 

[oilsmoke]

Usually if its really cold out and I need to start one I'll fill my run tub with warm water.

A buddy who works on a lot of outboards in his garage all winter puts antifreeze in his run tank so the tank don't freeze over night.

 

[airshot]

Usually if its really cold out and I need to start one I'll fill my run tub with warm water.

A buddy who works on a lot of outboards in his garage all winter puts antifreeze in his run tank so the tank don't freeze over night.

Now I know what to do with the old antifreeze drained from my vehicles !!
Great idea.

 

[Pappy]

I probably see more antique and vintage outboards running in a years time than a lot of you will see in ten years. The majority of smoke I see from the smaller outboards we have comes from a tendency to run improper air/fuel adjustments. Rich running. For example, I just finished a 1960 18hp for a friend of mine. Only gas I had available was a tank full of 20:1 that I run a 1957 5 1/2 on. Watch this short video and take a look at the smoke output from a properly adjusted idle mixture. The initial burst of "smoke" is steam from the re-start after running.