1980 J25RCSA coil assy

[Riverbean]

I wouldn't want to rely on Loctite to seal a crankcase.

From my experience working with red Loctite, I have never had any trouble getting it apart. If you do, some localized heat with a heat gun or propane torch would probably loosen it up and not hurt anything.

You will likely need to clean all of the bolts and chase the holes when you go back together. The drag from old Loctite will interfere with your torque values.

From what I'm reading about Loctite thread locker, it will not bond without steel in the equation, so separating the case once the bolts are out shouldn't be a big deal.

Yeah....says you have to heat it to 500 F to brake the seal...a member on here suggested using the 518 loctite and have confidence he wouldnt suggest it if he wasnt confident it would do the job, and i researched a little and everything i read brought me to the same conclusion, that it would work as good as anything else. Never saw or heard anything about steel having to be in the equation to use it either.. Havent decided what to do but am leaning towards tearing it back apart and using the 518 and not the 271 by mistake again...if it comes apart as easy as you think it will then i may explore other options but something tells me its gonna be SOB to get apart...

 

[nccatfisher]

As bad as I would hate to I would break it apart.

 

[Riverbean]

As bad as I would hate to I would break it apart.

Yeah im going to this weeken, if i dont it will drive me crazy thinking about it.. One good thing is i e already had it torn apart and got everything back together and it started, ran and nothing leaked haha.. Sucks though because i was going to get the primer, paint and decals on it this weekend.. Oh well i was fishing on 4 inches of ice today so its not like i can use now anyways....i'll post how the teardown part deux goes...

 

[Riverbean]

Well....update. Tore it back apart and the crankcase came apart waaaay too easy...i torqued to spec so idk why it was so easy but im glad it was...now im thinking the 271 is not good for a sealant between the halves and not sure what im going to use...leaning torwards whatever OMC used....anywho gonna re torque caps etc...and get it back together and put the zinc primer on in a day or two....any sugestions what to seal the crank with? Did i do something wrong the firat time???

 

[Riverbean]

Well....update. Tore it back apart and the crankcase came apart waaaay too easy...i torqued to spec so idk why it was so easy but im glad it was...now im thinking the 271 is not good for a sealant between the halves and not sure what im going to use...leaning torwards whatever OMC used....anywho gonna re torque caps etc...and get it back together and put the zinc primer on in a day or two....any sugestions what to seal the crank with? Did i do something wrong the firat time???

* first time

 

[Riverbean]

Did some reading and i will be sealing it with the 518 wich its intended use is for...271 is a permanent thread locker.. Both are anaerobic, id think either one would have worked but the 271 did not...also my service manual says to apply sealant to both flanges where i only applied the 271 to one.. Gonna seal. And torque it back down and re torque everything and get ready to prime it...acetone good for getting any oil,dirt,grease etc... Off before priming? Or is there something better?

 

[Riverbean]

Ok put the crankcase back on the powerhead/cylinder and used permatex #29132 and got everything torqued again so now i just have to get everything cleaned before priming (using acetone).. Now inside the powerhead everything has glyptal applied to it...the crankcase has something but not sure what it is( its a gold color)..there was no zinc chromate on the outside of the powerhead but i think they had glyptal on the outside like in the pics where i didnt get it all blasted off...my question is should i just zinc it or just paint it? Im wondering why there was no primer on the powerhead and should there be??

 

[Pappy]

In many cases the "Gold" was a coating of what is called Gold Irridite (if my spelling is correct) OMC always used some kind of sealer. As The EPA wormed it's way in OMC had to change a lot of it's coatings to comply. Some sealers were clear but I do not remember what they were called. I will see if another co-worker remembers.
No need to Glyptal the outside. Prime and paint.

 

[Riverbean]

In many cases the "Gold" was a coating of what is called Gold Irridite (if my spelling is correct) OMC always used some kind of sealer. As The EPA wormed it's way in OMC had to change a lot of it's coatings to comply. Some sealers were clear but I do not remember what they were called. I will see if another co-worker remembers.
No need to Glyptal the outside. Prime and paint.

Prime with zinc chromate?

 

[Pappy]

Yes, that should work just fine

 

[Riverbean]

Ok, thanks...

 

[Riverbean]

Anyone know what # screw is that holds the reeds and stops to the plate?

 

[Pappy]

I do not remember but....use loctite and common sense torque and you will not have an issue.
Everything on the intake side including the airbox base screws on most motors and the ignition plate assembly under the flywheel always gets cleaned and a fresh loctite treatment before installation.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Anyone know what # screw is that holds the reeds and stops to the plate?0131211246.jpg

Have a tape measure?

 

[Riverbean]

Yes?

 

[Riverbean]

Got everything primed and ready for paint...i have a sprayer to paint it with but i have to decide what paint i wanna use. I have a couple thoughts but cant decide...

 

[Pappy]

Keep oil and gasoline resistance in the back of your mind .....may help your decision.

 

[Riverbean]

Keep oil and gasoline resistance in the back of your mind .....may help your decision.

Ive been thinking about just that...