1986 16' Grumman V-Hull Mod/Restore | DUCK BOAT *PIC HEAVY*

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Update....

Haven't done much -- I have but remember I only have a couple of hours each night after the fam has gone to bed. SOOOO...

As I sit in the boat and imagine what I want to do and change my mind a million times -- I quickly realize that This venture just got really expensive. So I have been on EBAY selling everything I have that I don't use anymore. I have sold over 20 items and amassed a little fortune. It has taken quite a bit of time to stage, photograph and list everything. I also am selling my 20' Pontoon boat, not because I need to or that the wife will allow me to put the money into this boat, but because I will be moving next year and I figured I might as well sell it before the 4th when everyone is looking for a boat.

SOOO, I went ahead and purchased the Beaver tails and lined up a welder to put them on. I also purchased Parkers Duck boat paint in Marsh grass and also purchased 4 hatches for the boat. I also purchased all of the electrical pvc conduit and piping that I will need.

Tonight I start on the electrical -- Finally!!! Transom is being laminated as we speak two 3/4 MDO plywood. The plan is to weld the Beavertails on then install the transom -- obviously a challenge in that I have the lower bolts to put in before the beavertail comes in. I am going to notch the transom and use VERY large fender washers. I will install it after the welding is done!

Then we'll start on the decking and start framing everything up!
 
Sorry I haven't been updateing this -- We had a large exercise and now I am concentrating on my boat so it can be ready by Teal Season 5 Sept - 26 Sept.

So there are going to be a ton of updates in installments so here they go.

So the next step I took after getting the boat all cleaned up and electrical run was to bring it back to my Father in Law's workplace and start working on it there.

We got in there and scaled out the Floor -- MDO comes in standard sized sheets and I couldn't do the entire floor with just one sheet so we picked where our seam was going to be and started scribing the boards to the inside of the Chine.

How we did this was:

1. Took two long pieces of some ol 1/8 inch ply and scribed them to the Chine
a. Scribing takes time -- don't rush it. Do small sections at a time and be ready to start again -- thats why its good to make the template = more work ... better quality.
b. Make sure you keep your pencil and scribe at the same angle as you drag the scribe across the curve of the boat.
2. Took another two pieces and fit them Perpendicular
3. Took hot glue and glued the four corners together
4. Then took it out and lined it up on our two sheets of 3/4 MDO
5. Cut out the pieces and dry fit them.

I took those pieces back home and started my 2 Part Expoxy regime on the floor and the transom.
 

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Ok,

SO my thought process was this:

1. I need to epoxy these floors with 3 coats
a. Its high traffic and I want a thick base for the high traffic area
b. I know I am putting a removable rubber floor in after but I wanted it solid

Jeopardy song playing the the background....

So While I was doing the epoxy thing I got a wild hair and tore into my Engine ('86 Evinrude 30 HP Electric start)-- WOW don't do that! Its expensive and time consuming but here's why I did it...
a. I did it because I was having trouble starting it this last season.
b. AAHHHhh what the hell!!Its a restore right!
I replaced the:
Carburetor
Fuel Pump
Fuel Lines
Lube'd the Gear Case
Prop Seal
Prop
Throttle on the Tiller
Choke

I added:
Paint -- I couldn't wait to see what my color was going to look like since I couldn't find a good picture on the internet (so many are so different D2 the cameras used)
Fuel Filter
Fuel Line Quick Release system (My old one was hard wired in and 5200 was all over the engine from previous owner)
 

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Next Step:

I realized that because I took out the middle seat -- the floor used angle brackets riveted to them then screwed the floor into the angle brackets -- I was going to need support under my floor. I also realized that if I built the supports, they could keep my electrical conduit off the hull of the boat.

So I took an angle from the three ribs that I was going to put the supports on and then scribed a template like before and cut them out.

Once they were cut out I drilled my holes for the conduit and I epoxied the crap out of those too since they would be in the Hold of the boat expose to water quite a bit.

Play Jeopardy song again --

Once everything was done I decided to use a product called -- STEEL FLEX. IT IS AWESOME it goes on like normal Caulking but holds like nothing I have every seen.

I put down the supports down, then ran my wires again then put down the floor.
 

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Here comes the fun part -- FINALLY.

So with the floor in I decided to work on the dront Deck which would establish the heights and measurements for eveything else.

1. I don't have a lot of pictures here because we went in with a basic idea -- see first post -- and just started putting wood on.

2. Now this part we used a lot of Cedar that my Father-in-law had around for the frame and used the MDO for supports and the deck itself.

3. We decided that again -- we didn't have enough MDO to do the whole thing in one sheet so we split it up.
a. come to find out -- this worked out best because we could work with smaller peices of wood to scribe to the angles needed and we could put battens down along the seams to provide extra strength to the entire deck without adding too much framing.

4. Now the idea was that I wanted a Hold to put about 3 dozen decoys in. This hold would have a removeable hatch and then when the hold was empty a person could sit in there and hunt from inside the hold.

5. We ended up having enough room for an anchor hatch just in front of it too before the upper deck meets flush with the Gunnel. Eventually I will put a motor up front, but for now I wanted to get the wiring done and the battery compartment built and ready for that day.

So thats where we are -- Back to Epoxy chore -- Yes I know it doesn't all need it, but I want this boat to last!

Next this weekend is the Gun box and Storage

then we tackle the aft end of the boat -- stay tuned I totally goofed already there...I hope I can find a way out....not gonna tell ya what I did, lets see if you can figure it out -- BL the transom tells the story.
 

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I ALMOST FORGOT

INSTALLED THE BEAVERTAIL PODS!!! I also had the welder seal up and I am going to grind down all of the old bolt holes.
 

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Thanks fellas! I appreciate it -- I really want to get this boat done.

So here is what we did this weekend.

1. Built the Gun box and seats. ( I don't have all of the pictures)

2. Installed the Transom.

3. Pulled the boat off the trailer to work on the trailer before the boat gets too heavy to do that.
a. We plan on redoing the bunks
b. replacing the bearings & Seals.
c. I thought about painting the trailer -- but painting a galvanized trailer doesn't seem to check here on tinboats -- so I won't do it. Which sucks, because I like the durability of a galvanized trailer -- but hate the look.

I also added a stencil onto the cowling cover. -- The motor is ready to go!

Cheers
Herc
 

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Early Canadian 2 Sept - 30 Sept -- Teal from 5 Sept - 26 Sept -- Early season Waterfowl 2-5 Oct.

Don't think I will make the teal or the goose -- too much going on at work and working on the boat! Want to have scouting done by Early Season though! SO I need the boat done by mid Sept.

Its coming along but slowly! The Transom is done -- now just need to finish everything else. I would say a solid week of only working on the boat would work--so like ~ 50 hours or so left maybe.

Cheers
Herc
 
Sounds good.

Early goose opens up Sept. 2nd for us as well. Goes out the 27th. We don't get a teal season. Suppose to announce the late seasons this Monday. I'm about 85% done with my boat. Just need to finish painting the interior and installing my accessories. Doubt we'll have the jet done and mounted by early goose though, so the 1965 Jonhson 5hp will have to do the job for a little while.
 
OK another update after a long time between posts -- Sorry guys! The reason it is taking so long is because I build something in parts in order to properly water seal and epoxy everything. So with the 2-part I decided to do this because I wanted everything to be able to withstand a beating because it isn't aluminum. I decided not to go with aluminum -- not because of the cost -- because I think in the end I will be only slightly cheaper than aluminum -- its because I couldn't afford the welder & because with wood I can shape and fit everything with tools and skill sets that I and my father in law have. So the epoxy process is long! I was doing 2 to 3 coats of the epoxy and noticed it wouldn't come out good and I was doing a lot of sanding on it. Then I decided to put 2 coats of quick drying sanding sealer first which seals up the paper on the MDO and will provide another waterproof layer if the epoxy fails.

SO I Brought the trailer home -- I don't have any pictures because it itsn't done yet but I completely rebuilt the trailer -- Just waiting on the welder to finish off the tounge (I bent it on the last day of duck season last year on the ice) That has taken the most time.

So on top of working on the trailer during the work week -- on the weekends I go up to My Father-in-Law's to where he works -- Shamelss Plug -- OBX Boatworks

1. SO I am lucky that I have him because he is a Master Carpenter & Millwork expert! I started putting my two cents in on everything but soon realized I should sit back and watch a genious work! So I have been doing what my skill set allows and learning from him.

2. SO with that said for some reason we stopped working on the gunbox and moved over to the console box:
a. We Scribed in the two ends -- our plan changed drastically -- we were going to have the box run the length of the boat but decided on a electrical box and then a boc large enough for a 11 x 15 hatch.
b. I will upload another sketch of the boat here in a few days.
c. SO on the box we inset the switch panel, added a Battery test panel and a 12v power outlet for my spotlight
d. Just look at the craftsmanship. -- We used 1/2 inch MDO and two small pieces of 3/4 inch MDO for the sides.
e. We used white oak for the flange around the top of the box and then used bondo to cover all of the screw holes and smooth everything over.
f. On the back we hold everything together with cleats and glue.
g. Then we cut out the hole for my pry out hatch -- to have access to the electrical if needed. its a Rabud 10 x 14.
h. Finally we added 2 part epoxy over everything. (see pictures later)
i. When I get the part in ( TH MArine Dark Grey 11 x 15 Cam Hatch) we will install it and another divider for dry storage.
 

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SO be sure to see my previous post for the update -- but this weekend we worked on the aft deck.

I finally finished the transom too! My thought process on the back deck (don't ask me why) was to have it removable to replace. So its very modular -- I figure since my dog will be getting in and out of the boat back there and it will take the most beating, I though it would need the most replacing.

Back deck build.
1. So, I added a 2x2 inch strip of Aluminum angle to the seat base just aft of the rear seat. Then held a board level and marked a long line across the transom. I just used rivets.
2. I built the floor for the batteries and gas tank to go on two pieces of 1/2 inch MDO -- Standard gooping of sanding sealer and Epoxy.
a. I just took the board and screwed in some Cedar and leveled it out. (2 pieces of wood the cedar stands and sits on the rib and the bottom board sits in the chine like the rest of my deck.
3. I added another couple of 2 x 2 aluminum to the base of the rear seat to stabilize with rivets.
4. Then screwed in the board to the angle. -- Easy pezy -- notice the lack of craftsmanship -- yeah that part is mine!! ;)
5. Then I added the Battery Boxes.
6. Then I ran my wire to the front panel box (next week is electrical and I will post my wiring diagram)
7. I took two 3/4 inch MDO and laminated them together to form a cleat to attach to the transom (standard Goop process on those too) The we cut a 12 degree angle on it to level out the back deck due to the angle of the transom.
8. This is where my father in law's Macgyver skills came into play.
a. He took a large piece of laminated (3x 1/2 MDO) and cut it to wedge into the transom support brace and the rear seat...so you can't pick it straight up, only move it side to side!! Its using wedge power -- the simplest tool in the shed!!
b. Then he cut out one piece of 1/2 MDO to fit the entire back deck
i. while it was in we designed it with a pencil on the solid sheet
ii. once designed he started marking his cuts while I went and started working on the wiring and got out of his way!!
c. He cut out the hatches
d. then he cut the angle for the outboard area.
e. then he added 1 inch battens all the way around for a frame
i. That frame sits on top of the wedge, the angle and the transom cleats.

Now all I have to do is goop everything up and bring it back next weekend.

We should be able to finish up the gun box next weekend and then cut the holes for the hatches.

After next weekend I am going to prep her for paint -- the epoxy doesn't like paint so I have to sand it up a little and use asitone to remove the slippery film that the epoxy gives off and then prime everything.

Once I paint it all then I am ready to put it all together!! I see light -- a weee bit of hope that this thing will be done by mid -sept...about 1 1/2 months past my deadline!
 

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Looking good man =D>

I like the recessed mount for your control panel. Thought about doing something similar for protection purposes, but I didn't. Might need to down the road if my panel starts getting beat up.
 
I wish I had HALF that woodworking skill. I am dreading putting my front deck in, I'm just not sure how to go about it. Look great tho man. Keep it up!!!
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326541#p326541 said:
BigTerp » 19 Aug 2013, 08:39[/url]"]Looking good man =D>

I like the recessed mount for your control panel. Thought about doing something similar for protection purposes, but I didn't. Might need to down the road if my panel starts getting beat up.


Yeah, Since I am not going to be reusing my tall big blind, opting for a laydown style blind in the boat -- I thought it would be best to save myself a few inches -- when I get done with the boat and start working on the blind I will show you want I am talking about but basically -- I saved myself ~ 4 inches of clearance when I lay down in the boat.

Thanks for checking it out!
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326550#p326550 said:
riverrat174 » 19 Aug 2013, 09:21[/url]"]I wish I had HALF that woodworking skill. I am dreading putting my front deck in, I'm just not sure how to go about it. Look great tho man. Keep it up!!!

I wish I had half the skill too -- after watching him it isn't too bad -- what will help you the most is the angle measurer found on page one of this post but also a band saw that can tilt to match the angle. My Father-in-law comes on here to watch the post, I really wish he would hop on and give his two cents so you could all learn his macguiver skills!! Thanks for watching btw!! I know the pictures don't do it justice, but we are getting close to being done with the bulk of the work -- the rest is paint and details!

Cheers
Herc
 

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