1992 Polar Kraft MVT-1751 with a 1992 Evinrude 60 HP…my first tin boat project

[Axhammer]

I welded four plates to the frame where the original crossmember was, and where the crooked rusty cross member was. I tacked a steel 2”x 2” angle in place. I cut the 1 7/8” hitch off the end of the tongue tube, and the T off the opposing end. The tongue tube is now a bare tube and it has a couple slight bends in it, at the end where it was welded to the hinge T. I plan on straightening the tube the best I can by eye, and then welding it to the trailer frame.

I clamped the tongue tube to the trailer to see how it looked.

Before I weld the tongue tube in place, I will take measurements to center it, and assure the axle is perpendicular to the centerline of the trailer, like mentioned above…I want it to track straight on the road.

I think I can make this trailer work…after a lot of work.

 

[Axhammer]

I made some good progress today, I guess the cooler weather (hi 80’s vice mid 90’s) helps.

I ended up driving my Duramax onto the 12’ 8” tongue beam (3”x 3” .125 wall thickness).

I set the beam on wood blocks, placed strategically so the weight of the truck bent the beam. I got it pretty straight now, much better that it was. What I like is when I look at it, it looks Ok…not bent or crooked.

The beam was 13’ long, before I cut 4” off when I removed the T. My new mount location is further back, from where it was located when I got it, so the tongue is about a foot or more shorter now.

 

[Axhammer]

With the tongue welded in place, and the tongue jack installed, it sits slightly nose high with the Jack fully extended and no weight on the trailer. I am happy with how this part worked out. The leaf springs seem a little stiff, even with the boat on it. I wonder if I should remove a leaf or two, to make them softer?

I bolted the 2” ball hitch to the tongue, now I can actually drag it around the yard with my little CJ-7 If I need to.

I used a can of Rust Oleum galvanized spray paint to cover the bare steel angle, and areas where I had to grind the galvanized coating off for grounds and such.

The steel pipe that was inside the tongue cam out covered with severe corrosion. When I picked it up to look at it today, I noticed it is bent. I need to straighten the pipe to where it’s not bent when viewing it, kinda like the tongue itself. After I have it straightened, better than it is, I will work the rust. I plan on hitting it with a flap wheel to remove the surface rust, and treating it with a Rust-Converter and some paint, before I slide it back in place.

I need to mount the bunks (8’ 2x4’s) next, hopefully I get that done tomorrow.

Once the trailer has bunks, I can finish sanding the hull exterior, I have about 1/4th left to sand, about 2-3 hours worth of sanding with an electric orbital sander & 80 grit paper.

After the sanding is done, I get to change gears from MIG welding steel to TIG welding aluminum. I plan on welding the side console back together to give me more TIG experience before I weld the cracks on the bottom of the hull. I just bought this TIG welder just for this project, I have about 3 hours of practice welding .125” coupons, so I need as much seat time as I can get.

 

[sonny1]

Which welding unit did you buy? Post some close up pics of the controls and I can help you out some.

 

[Axhammer]

Last weekend I had to drive out to Boone NC, to fetch my kid. He spent a few days at home since it’s between semesters, so I didn’t work on the boat much.

This week it rained or was forecast to rain every afternoon, so it’s been slow going.

I drove my truck over the bent pipe to straighten it, before it would slide inside the tongue. After I got it straight l had to do something with the heavy rust. After I hit it with a flap disc, I put some rust converter on it. Next, I put a couple coats of red rust oleum top coat paint on the pipe. I slide the pipe in place and installed a new bolt to secure it.

I welded some steel angle in place to support my new 8’ bunks. I set up the bunks to park the boat nose high while on the trailer. I just guessed at the angle and overhang at the end of the trailer. I’m not sure where the boat will be parked on the trailer until it is finished and I know the final weight. If it’s not right I will have to make adjustments.

The trailer is almost done. It needs the carpet stapled to the bunks, and then the bunks can be bolted in place. I put two coats of paint on the 2x4’s after I fit them and drilled the mount holes.

I need to run the wires back through the tongue for the lights. I guess I will do that last.

 

[Axhammer]

Everywhere I welded I had to grind off the galvanized coating on this trailer. When I was done welding, I cleaned up the bare spots with a wire brush and or flap wheel. I applied rust converter before applying rust oleum galvanized spray paint. I’m not sure how it’s going to hold up??? I guess I’ll find out.

 

[Axhammer]

I should be finished with the MIG welder for now.

Hopefully I’ll start the aluminum welding this weekend, with my TIG welder.

I’ll post a picture of my settings and some practice welds.

 

[sonny1]

I should be finished with the MIG welder for now.

Hopefully I’ll start the aluminum welding this weekend, with my TIG welder.

I’ll post a picture of my settings and some practice welds.

First off you choice in machine is excellent. Clearance effect is set for penetration. Try it on a +1 This will cut down on the amount of penetration but will help clean the aluminum as you weld. Will result in a little wider bead. Allow more pre flow. A good practice is to goose the peddle and then while gas is still running begin welding. This will cut down on cracks. Post flow needs to be increase. Very important to hold the torch over the end of the weld until aluminum has cooled off some. This will help eliminate what is known as bug eyes. Looks like a hole at the end of your weld because it is. This practice will help in reducing cracks at the end of the weld. Now we will talk about your welds. Not bad pretty good actually. With your post flow set longer as you come to the end of the weld back off your heat and add a small amount of rod. This will eliminate the depression at the end of your weld. Proper post flow will allow your aluminum to cool with gas coverage. Practice by lowering your heat and letting the puddle form before adding rod. This will give your brain and arm to get rhythm. Sounds funny but after you have run a few beads you will understand. Try to add a little less rod in the puddle. Add the rod for a quick dip and then add it more often. This will result in closer ripples and a smoother looking bead. The weld should be just above the surface. Not flat or concave. This will result in a bead that is less prone to cracking along the legs of the weld Plus it will look really sharp. Hope this helps. Practice makes perfect. I have been practicing for over 22 years as a full time tig welder. Forgot to mention use a stainless steel brush and clean area that is to be welded. This is very important.

 

[Axhammer]

Thanks for the tips. I’ll give it a try.

This machine is pretty basic, but it should be OK for welding the relatively thin aluminum I am working with. I’m surprised you like the choice, I was ready to hear the opposite concerning my choice of welding machine.

 

[sonny1]

I am planning on buying one myself. Show your welds as you move along and I can give you some advice and tips.

 

[thill]

First off you choice in machine is excellent. Clearance effect is set for penetration. Try it on a +1 This will cut down on the amount of penetration but will help clean the aluminum as you weld. Will result in a little wider bead. Allow more pre flow. A good practice is to goose the peddle and then while gas is still running begin welding. This will cut down on cracks. Post flow needs to be increase. Very important to hold the torch over the end of the weld until aluminum has cooled off some. This will help eliminate what is known as bug eyes. Looks like a hole at the end of your weld because it is. This practice will help in reducing cracks at the end of the weld. Now we will talk about your welds. Not bad pretty good actually. With your post flow set longer as you come to the end of the weld back off your heat and add a small amount of rod. This will eliminate the depression at the end of your weld. Proper post flow will allow your aluminum to cool with gas coverage. Practice by lowering your heat and letting the puddle form before adding rod. This will give your brain and arm to get rhythm. Sounds funny but after you have run a few beads you will understand. Try to add a little less rod in the puddle. Add the rod for a quick dip and then add it more often. This will result in closer ripples and a smoother looking bead. The weld should be just above the surface. Not flat or concave. This will result in a bead that is less prone to cracking along the legs of the weld Plus it will look really sharp. Hope this helps. Practice makes perfect. I have been practicing for over 22 years as a full time tig welder. Forgot to mention use a stainless steel brush and clean area that is to be welded. This is very important.

Wow, I need to study that paragraph!

 

[Axhammer]

I covered the 2 x 4 bunks with some leftover indoor/outdoor carpet I had left over from another project. I used a can of gorilla spray contact cement, and some galvanized staples to secure the carpet to the wood bunks.

The bunks are installed on the trailer. I still need to run the wiring for the lights, and install the winch & mount. The hard part is done, no more cutting & welding on this trailer.

I finished rough sanding the hull exterior with 80 grit. Having sanded every inch of the hull exterior, and inspecting each rivet for condition & security, I am confident this boat has no loose rivets in the hull skin.

I have about 8-10 hours of sanding time invested in this project. I’ll probably run some finer grit over the hull, before I paint it. I plan on rolling Sea Hawk, Aluma Hawk aluminum boat paint on it. I haven’t decided on the color yet, but I’m leaning towards Jon boat green.

 

[Axhammer]

I ran a couple of practice beads on some aluminum .125” sheet coupons.

I figured what the hell, and stated welding on the side console that is full of cracks.

The repaired area pictured has a total of four beads, that I ran across the area.

I know it’s not a pretty, professional looking weld, but it’s a start.

 

[sonny1]

Rod is fine. Machine could be set a little higher like around 115-120. Gas should be set at around 15 pounds. I see that you are dipping your tungsten. A word to the wise everytime you dip your tungsten stop and clean the tungsten up. Clean both exterior and interior areas of weld. Plus clean area of weld further back. It only takes a speck of paint to screw up your welds. I would use a patch vice trying to weld that gap. If you prefer no patch then run first pass on one side of gap then run second pass on other side of gap. then your third pass join the to sides together. Wire brush each pass as you weld joint. Make some more practice runs and concentrate on adding rod after you form a puddle. Tacking weld joint from the backside will help out a lot. The crack going up the side needs to be drilled at end of crack with a small size drill bit. Very important to use a stainless brush and clean area to be welded with alcohol. The clearance effect or what is known as your balance might work a little better set around 1+ or even just a little bit higher. Hope this helps. Not bad for your first attempt. Forgot something watch your heat make a pass and let it cool down before making another pass.

 

[Axhammer]

yeah, it suck when you sharpen a new tungsten and then proceed to dip it … gotta start over.

The area I welded didn't have that big gap, that’s why I stopped at the gap.

Baby steps

 

[sonny1]

Just doing my best to help you out.

 

[thill]

You got the gap closed, that's the goal. Run a flap disc over it to dress it up and look for any bad spots to fill, remembering Sonny's advice. It will only get better and better as you practice more.

Some of my welds looked terrible, but when I cleaned them up with the disc, they looked really good. Getting everything filled solid is the big thing. If you dress them and they have holes underneath, just go at it again, and maybe do a stop and go if it's getting too hot. Do a button, stop, brush, then do another button and so on. That's what I had to do, particularly on my vertical outside corners, and it came out really good. Way better than I expected with my cheap MIG gun.

Keep it up! Nice progress so far.

 

[sonny1]

With tig welding the holes are called porosity. Your best bet is to take a sharp piece of tungsten and clean out the hole then wire brush and may require a repeat. Go back over it with a weld and repeat if necessary. You really want to get the garbage out so you can fill with solid metal. The best defence against porosity is clean prior to welding.

 

[Axhammer]

I welded the other side of the same part yesterday.

I was using my O/A torch to heat & wire brush the surface, cleaning it.

I got it a little too hot in one area and the aluminum sheet started to melt and fall away.

I eventually welded it solid, but it’s ugly.

Still learning obviously.

 

[Axhammer]

I ran four practice beads on some .125” coupons, and then cleaned the cracked areas, prior to welding on my side console.

I welded a couple short cracks first and then welded the gaps closed. I took a picture of the short welds. My big gap filling welds looked like the last ones I pictured. I forgot to take pictures of them tonight before I took a grinder to all welds.