I would still suggest putting the boat in the water to test for leaks before starting to work on the interior. The weight of the hull in the water could force water in through unseen leaks that don't leak outward when you put water in the hull. That would frustrate me to do all the work and find it still was leaking and have to tear back into it.
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I can’t argue with that logic.
On another note I have been toying with the thought of adding new drains in my boat.
I could weld in two 1” tubes in the floor V’s, at the bottom of the transom, the lowest location, so it would be the best place to put the drains.
The way the seats were originally configured, this area is non accessible. If I move the drains, I have to redesign the seating configuration…which is something I can do, but is it worth the effort?
I definitely plan on putting as much flotation foam back in this boat as possible, so that adds to the challenge.
On another note I have been toying with the thought of adding new drains in my boat.
I could weld in two 1” tubes in the floor V’s, at the bottom of the transom, the lowest location, so it would be the best place to put the drains.
The way the seats were originally configured, this area is non accessible. If I move the drains, I have to redesign the seating configuration…which is something I can do, but is it worth the effort?
I definitely plan on putting as much flotation foam back in this boat as possible, so that adds to the challenge.
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It really looks like the tunnel in that boat was an afterthought. My boat has the drains where you were thinking and it works well. But my boat stays at a dock for 5-6 months so the drains aren't needed when it's the bilge pump keeping it somewhat dry.
thill
Well-known member
I just binge-read the updated posts. Looking good!
I usually use flared tubes for drains, but if you can weld thicker ones in, that would be the way to go in a HD situation like a tunnel hull that might run shallow.
Thanks for posting your progress. Keep up the good work. You are getting there!
I usually use flared tubes for drains, but if you can weld thicker ones in, that would be the way to go in a HD situation like a tunnel hull that might run shallow.
Thanks for posting your progress. Keep up the good work. You are getting there!
The part about my drains that I don’t like is they are too high. The boat will always hold a little water in each side of the tunnel, because of the drain locations.
If I move the drains lower, I have to design the rear seating to allow access to the drains, so I can install & remove the plugs. I wish there was a cable activated plug that I could use, but the only one I know of is designed for bass boats, so it isn’t what I’m looking for.
My boat has worked with this plug design for over thirty years. This is why I wonder if it’s worth the effort
This boat will be parked under a carport when not in use, most of the time. Maybe I am overthinking this.
Maybe I should leave the drains as is, and install a bilge pump in each side and call it good?
If I move the drains lower, I have to design the rear seating to allow access to the drains, so I can install & remove the plugs. I wish there was a cable activated plug that I could use, but the only one I know of is designed for bass boats, so it isn’t what I’m looking for.
My boat has worked with this plug design for over thirty years. This is why I wonder if it’s worth the effort
This boat will be parked under a carport when not in use, most of the time. Maybe I am overthinking this.
Maybe I should leave the drains as is, and install a bilge pump in each side and call it good?
I didn’t feel like loading the boat on the trailer for a leak check yesterday, so I tinkered with other stuff. Maybe tomorrow? I will definitely be doing a leak check on this hull while it is still a bare hull, before I start putting it back together.
I started fitting the aluminum angles that I am going to use to reinforce the cracked ribs. The plan is to install a .125” sheet aluminum floor on top of the reinforced ribs, from where the tunnel starts, all the way forward to the last flat rib, before the V starts at the front of the boat, and it will be full width. These flat ribs I’m talking about, actually have a slight V, but after I add my angles, the floor mounting surfaces will be flat, so my floor will be flat as well.
The rib reinforcements are going to be riveted & bonded in place using 3M 2200 marine sealant. They will be drilled for 3/16” rivets, and when I install them, the surfaces will get 2200 sealant applied prior to being riveted in place. This will be a super strong joint after cured.
The .125” sheet I bought for the floor is 64” long (60” wide). The distance from the end of the tunnel to the last flat rib is 64”. I had Matt shear the sheet at this length when I bought it. I will have to make a template that fits around the vertical portions of the ribs on each side, so the floor sheet, fits closely. The plan is for one single sheet to be used as the floor in the open part of the boat (the largest section of floor). The floor sheet will be riveted to the reinforcement ribs, after 2200 sealant is applied. Every rivet will be wet installed with 2200 sealant.
Again, this will be super strong after it is cured. I consider it a permanent installation.
I have the first four rib reinforcement angles (starting at the front moving aft) temporarily attached to the ribs using clecos in this picture.
I will post a picture to show what it looks like.
I started fitting the aluminum angles that I am going to use to reinforce the cracked ribs. The plan is to install a .125” sheet aluminum floor on top of the reinforced ribs, from where the tunnel starts, all the way forward to the last flat rib, before the V starts at the front of the boat, and it will be full width. These flat ribs I’m talking about, actually have a slight V, but after I add my angles, the floor mounting surfaces will be flat, so my floor will be flat as well.
The rib reinforcements are going to be riveted & bonded in place using 3M 2200 marine sealant. They will be drilled for 3/16” rivets, and when I install them, the surfaces will get 2200 sealant applied prior to being riveted in place. This will be a super strong joint after cured.
The .125” sheet I bought for the floor is 64” long (60” wide). The distance from the end of the tunnel to the last flat rib is 64”. I had Matt shear the sheet at this length when I bought it. I will have to make a template that fits around the vertical portions of the ribs on each side, so the floor sheet, fits closely. The plan is for one single sheet to be used as the floor in the open part of the boat (the largest section of floor). The floor sheet will be riveted to the reinforcement ribs, after 2200 sealant is applied. Every rivet will be wet installed with 2200 sealant.
Again, this will be super strong after it is cured. I consider it a permanent installation.
I have the first four rib reinforcement angles (starting at the front moving aft) temporarily attached to the ribs using clecos in this picture.
I will post a picture to show what it looks like.
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There are seven ribs that my 64” sheet metal floor will cover. Six of them will have the rib reinforcement angles riveted to the cracked ribs. The aft most rib, which is at the beginning of the tunnel is where this 64” sheet will start. The reinforcement angle will be bonded only to this rib, because I don’t have room to install rivets.
In this picture I have a piece of angle laying on the rib, where it will be bonded only.
I will post a picture looking at it from the other direction.
In this picture I have a piece of angle laying on the rib, where it will be bonded only.
I will post a picture looking at it from the other direction.
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I put the drain plug in from the outside of the transom before I launch the boat. I thought that was pretty standard. Why put them in from the inside?
If the boat doesn't leak the current locations should be fine. But I would want to be able to reach down in there to sop up any water if needed. The only time my bilge gets wet is when I forget the drain plug (yup) or wash down the inside of the boat (which isn't often). Truthfully, the only reason I would move them is if I spent time worrying about it.
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Looks like you are also using the angle to level the deck. That is going to be one heck of a nice open area. What kind of floor covering if any will you use?
(Sorry for all the questions. Just that I'm interested in how you are approaching this).
If you put the plug in from the inside, you can pull the plug while running on plane to drain the water. I do this in my 1648 when I am crabbing all the time.
If I stick with the drains as is, I’ll just sop up the water after I use it.
If I stick with the drains as is, I’ll just sop up the water after I use it.
After the .125” aluminum sheet goes down, that’s it…it will have an aluminum floor.
I will paint the entire boat when I am finished, and that area of the deck will probably get non-skid.
I will paint the entire boat when I am finished, and that area of the deck will probably get non-skid.
I finished fitting the 1.5” angles for all of the cracked ribs. They are held in place with cleco’s for now, while I make a template for the sheet metal floor that will go on top.
When I put my level on the new floor support flanges, I can see they are all sitting even at the same height.
I ran out of angle stock, so the angle that is on the rib at the front of the tunnel, in these pictures is too short. When I get more metal, I will make one that is full width.
When I put my level on the new floor support flanges, I can see they are all sitting even at the same height.
I ran out of angle stock, so the angle that is on the rib at the front of the tunnel, in these pictures is too short. When I get more metal, I will make one that is full width.
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The moment of truth! Time spent doing the template is about to pay off.
I cut & trimmed the notches in my new floor. It turned out pretty good, it needs a little trimming in a couple spots.
My goal is to have a tight gap everywhere with enough room so the metal floor does not touch the sides and ribs.
I might run a bead of 3M 2200 around the perimeter, to secure & seal the installation.
I need more angle stock for the rib at the leading edge of the tunnel.
My goal is to have a tight gap everywhere with enough room so the metal floor does not touch the sides and ribs.
I might run a bead of 3M 2200 around the perimeter, to secure & seal the installation.
I need more angle stock for the rib at the leading edge of the tunnel.
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Nice project. Welding is one skill i wish I learned.
On our G3, the drain holes are on each side of the tunnel, approx like yours. It does have livewell drains that are a little lower that run within a strake. It has dual bilge pumps, one on each side, too.
As you can see it uses the outside drain style. This was new to me, but after trying to reach over the the high transom down into the pocket, it is very hard, understood why. Not easy from the inside, either. I am now comfortable using the bilge pumps (mostly rain for us) and these outside drains.
I have done the pull plug while on plane, with open style boats, but wold never try it with this one. I do run the bilge pumps when getting the bow high, letting as much water back to the transom/pumps.
On our G3, the drain holes are on each side of the tunnel, approx like yours. It does have livewell drains that are a little lower that run within a strake. It has dual bilge pumps, one on each side, too.
As you can see it uses the outside drain style. This was new to me, but after trying to reach over the the high transom down into the pocket, it is very hard, understood why. Not easy from the inside, either. I am now comfortable using the bilge pumps (mostly rain for us) and these outside drains.
I have done the pull plug while on plane, with open style boats, but wold never try it with this one. I do run the bilge pumps when getting the bow high, letting as much water back to the transom/pumps.
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I registered the trailer, so now I can take the boat to the creek, and float-check the hull for leaks.
I will finish the center floor sheet metal installation, and then remove it all. This way later in the build, when it is time to permanently install the floor, all of the supports, ribs and the floor itself, will be pre-drilled, and ready for a quick install. I plan on installing closed cell foam under the floor as well. It looks like 1.5” thick foam will fit tight, so that’s the plan.
After the leak check is good, I will remove the wood transom and fabricate an aluminum transom. After I have a transom installed, I need to design the rear seat support system that will also support the plastic fuel tank. The original sheet metal rear seat also provided structural support for the transom. My seat support will also provide structural support for the transom. My sheet metal seat will attach to the support structure.
After I know where the rear seat is located, I can finish the rest of the rear floor.
It’s coming along slowly…much slower that I planned, but that’s seems to be how everything goes.
I will finish the center floor sheet metal installation, and then remove it all. This way later in the build, when it is time to permanently install the floor, all of the supports, ribs and the floor itself, will be pre-drilled, and ready for a quick install. I plan on installing closed cell foam under the floor as well. It looks like 1.5” thick foam will fit tight, so that’s the plan.
After the leak check is good, I will remove the wood transom and fabricate an aluminum transom. After I have a transom installed, I need to design the rear seat support system that will also support the plastic fuel tank. The original sheet metal rear seat also provided structural support for the transom. My seat support will also provide structural support for the transom. My sheet metal seat will attach to the support structure.
After I know where the rear seat is located, I can finish the rest of the rear floor.
It’s coming along slowly…much slower that I planned, but that’s seems to be how everything goes.
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Thanks Fuzz,
When I was looking at my boat, before I bought it, I was looked down inside where the plugs are located. Having sat uncovered it had some leaves & water inside. That tight location looked like a scary place to be sticking my hand down into…LOL.
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