2LB. OR 4LB. FOAM ON A 14 FT MODIFIED V-HULL

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Fishingman48

Well-known member
TinBoats Supporter
Joined
Oct 1, 2019
Messages
172
Reaction score
134
Location
Catskills,NY
LOCATION
North Branch, NY
Well lady's & gent's I have now completed phase two of redoing my boat 95% of foam has been removed except for bow which seems to be in pretty good shape only thing is no sealant on it ?
Now questions should I remove and redo the bow as well or is there a sealant one can use to spray on? The lower portion does seem to be in question as there was some soil with moisture this was found under the saddle of the keel in place for the floor, but the keel shows no moisture effect on it & is in excellent shape so I will be using it again no sense in spending and replacing if no need right!? & I am also thinking about going with a heavier plywood as well for the floor / deck, as the 1/2 in. really "in some ways" stood up to 36 yrs. .but ?? As I said before I am a good size fella 280lbs or should I just keep the 1/2 in // the stern was the issue' total replacement of deck 80% & 50 % was stern waterlog which tells me the boat sat outside with hardly any protection and the drain cock was not removed! I was asked for pictures, so I am going to try and download some I do hope they come out. The Boat itself for 36 yrs. old is in extremely excellent condition INSIDE AND OUT metal wise, rivet wise & paint wise lightly used! so, my son & daughter & grand kids will enjoy down the road as well I wish to do all the right way. Pictures on the way!
Now for my question > 2lb. or 4 lb foam 86 north port troller.jpegIn this pic. i am going to ask all to modify the side walls which are now thinner from red strap up is half the width. right side is full to bottom of board & rear is full as well left side rear of red strap is full // red strap back & up is only half full due to holding compartment for
pole's / cross over seating & live well in rear has no foam // bow is only 30%nose & area saddling keel for floor which does not look like much from what I have seen watching u-tube user's
My questions are which Poundage to use? 2lb or 4lb & how many gallons would you think would take to do both side's & ????? maybe thinking of doing bow over @30% so everything is new & know what's what!!!! as far as buoyance goes.
 
2 lb foam is lighter thus gets you 2lbs extra buoyancy vs 4 lb foam. Unless you need better structural support from the foam, I’d think 2lbs would be sufficient.

Foam gives about 62 lbs buoyancy per cubic foot, less the poundage. So 2 lb foam is about 60 lbs buoyancy, 4 lb foam is about 58 lbs buoyancy.

There are lots of threads on here about calculating foam needs. This one has helped me: *****HOW MUCH FOAM DO I NEED*****

However the link to the usgbc doc is broken. I found this link as well which was very helpful to figure out the calculations: https://safeafloat.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/F-_-G-_-H-Flotation-Final-4-14.pdf
 
Keep the 1/2" ply floor.

I'll toss this out for consideration. If the boxed in spaces where the foam goes are fully enclosed, I might consider avoiding the two part pour in foam. Instead, use layers of sheet foam cut to size to fit the space. The cost will be significantly less. If removal is ever needed, it will be a breeze. However, if I was replacing existing pour in foam in the bottom of the hull around framing, I would probably replace that with new pour in foam.
 
Keep the 1/2" ply floor.

I'll toss this out for consideration. If the boxed in spaces where the foam goes are fully enclosed, I might consider avoiding the two part pour in foam. Instead, use layers of sheet foam cut to size to fit the space. The cost will be significantly less. If removal is ever needed, it will be a breeze. However, if I was replacing existing pour in foam in the bottom of the hull around framing, I would probably replace that with new pour in foam.
This is what I did. Original manufacturer had used combination of blocks of styro and 2" thick sheets. I thought about using pour foam, but the thought of ever needing to get it out made me use combination of sheets and solid pool noodles.
 
I typically go with block foam when possible, but if needed, the pour in is okay. Just make sure you don't overfill and have to cut the foam down. Anywhere you cut will absorb water like a sponge.

Don't forget to fill under the gunnels with foam, if there is a place for it. This will give you level floatation, so your boat doesn't turn turtle if it gets swamped.

And for what it's worth, little shots of fill-foam from a can really works well to hold things in place.

Hope it works out great for you.
 
Thanks to all who answered! I myself was thinking onalot of same lines but was not sure if could do or use? & HAVE TO SAY YES TO ALL AS MY MIND WAS SWAMPED WITH IDEA'S / but wasnt sure now i know & a def. on the sav $$ and the use of sheets and blocks where i can get / will def. be checkin the HOME DEPOT & LOCAL Lowes/ TWAS NO FUN DIGGIN OUT ALL THAT! I don't plan on doin again, but as stated thing's do happen out of the blue god forbid & if so i'd rather be pullin out sheets and fixin & back out on water then sittin dry dock for a couple weeks !! Thanks guys you all have been a help as alway's !!!
 
I typically go with block foam when possible, but if needed, the pour in is okay. Just make sure you don't overfill and have to cut the foam down. Anywhere you cut will absorb water like a sponge.

Don't forget to fill under the gunnels with foam, if there is a place for it. This will give you level floatation, so your boat doesn't turn turtle if it gets swamped.

And for what it's worth, little shots of fill-foam from a can really works well to hold things in place.

Hope it works out great for you.
was thinking of that too! kinda like tye everything in snug! gotcha!
 
WHERE THE PROBLEM LAID > It was mentioned that the foam if cut will be open and suck liquid like a sponge. the two side rail boxes were indeed filled with pour but!!! Top cut & then plywood added cheaply covered with?? & then indoor /outdoor carpet 36 yrs. of who knows how long not covered right / Overall it wasn't bad! BUT!! it wasn't good either was def. time I caught it ! AGAIN, THANK YOU!!!!!
 
I recommend you check out Tiny Boat Nation on YouTube. They have some really good videos. They're geared to making small making small fishing boats out of tin cans but a lot of the info applies to restoration too, like using pour foam and sealing wood.
My original plan was to do a boat like they do but I got a 1960 Arkansas Traveler so I'm gonna do a mix of both worlds. I'm going to put a floor in for more stability when fishing and give me area to use pour foam (2lb) for flotation. The bench seats have already had the original foam removed so I'll make them more efficient storage.
I'm looking forward to see your boat come back to life.
 

Latest posts

Top