5HP Gamefisher Question/w/pics/UPDATE 10/30/08

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dedawg1149 said:
you cant just drill a hole in a new location and mount it?maybe run longer fuel hoses

I could but it's to close to the carb.My carb doesn't have an air filter so it's subject to being splashed and drowned.I consider it a design flaw.I'd add an air filter but there is only 1.5 inches of clearance between the hood and the carb,which helps to send water directly into the carb throat.Did I mention that I'm anal about keeping things original and to factory specs? #-o
 
12ftModder said:
How about just keeping the old valve in place and using the new one zip tied to the old one or some type of mounting plate under the cowling? Thats if you want to keep it on the cheap.
You can also try this place for a custom made valve https://www.discovervalve.com/

Thank you for the link.I will give it a go.I would consider your suggestion but the valve is to close to the carb and engine.Those pics are a little misleading and make it appear that there is more room than there actually is.I am learning that the 77-82 Eska built Gamefishers are completely different from there predassesors.
 
i understand being anal about keeping things the way they were but if you cant find a valve it look like from the pictures you could of took the valve you had and took some light metal drilled a hole for the valve to mount then took and pop riveted the metal bracket to your cowling to make a new bracket,you could leave your old valve there intill you found one. then if you found one all you would have to do is drill out the rivets and install the new one.i guess it depends how bad you need to get it running .
 
I contacted the guy at Discount Marine and he said that the valve he sent me is the correct part number but wrong valve.He told me the correct valve was made for and by Clinton.Clinton was envolved in outboards but I didn't think they were envolved in eska/tecumseh built Gamefisher outboards. :roll:
 
I got the valve it is very close to being like my original.I am going to try it.

1106081637-1.jpg


On a side note.I got the lower unit off to replace the seals and water pump.Managed to break the side of the cavitation/aireation plate.The power head has to be removed to reinstall the water tube.Just a tip,always use anti-seize on the drive shaft,water tube,and bolts/screws/nuts.Another tip on the Gamefisher with the little red/orange fuel pump element.The element has a little notch in the end.This little notch has to run at a 45 degree angle to the horizontal center line of the carb bolt holes.When I remove the carb I'll try to remember to get a pic of it.
 
So any updates? I have the 7hp but it looks just like this! I'm also having the same problem with no flow of fuel from the external tank. I also wanted to rebuild the carb but was hesitant after learning about the fuel pump element. After many pulls, idle adjustments and a while to warm up it runs quite well but really takes a while to warm up and ***** kind of hard and is really touchy with the choke.
 
Our motors may look the same but they're different.My motor is direct drive(no shifting) with 360 degree rotation to allow for reverse.Once she's started I'm moving.Heck, I move every time I a pull the cord.I haven't went any further with the motor.It's looking like I may have to re-ring the piston and hone the cylinder,plus I broke my lower unit cavitation plate.Gotta try to get it welded.There's a little unknown secret about the fuel pump element.It installs at a 45 degree angle.The flat side needs to face up and out towards the fuel line fittings.Took me a while to figure this one out.Another issue especially with the internal tank is the valve.Any little air leak in or around the valve,and the pump can't suck fuel from either tank(external or internal).The valve turns the fuel off/on for the internal tank.Also fuel line size is critical,1/4 inch, no other size seems to work.Same deal with the external tank fitting.If there's any little air leak the fuel pump won't suck fuel.The fuel pumps are weak to keep from over powering the carb's float needle,and flooding the engine.If you're not using an external tank,you can temporarily block the carb hose fitting with a vacuum port cap.If that solves the problem you will know there is an air leak in the external tank fuel line or quick disconnect fitting.If you don't have a service manual,try to get one.I got mine from ebay.Be careful with those.Some are really bad reprints.
 

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