9.5 Johnson

[cajuncook1]

PM me your email. I can send more detailed instructions in the morning.

 

[cajuncook1]

Go to Auto Zone or similar store, they loan out a compression gauge with a deposit. Check your compression on your top and bottom cylinder. Just wanting you make sure you do not have compression issues. You can wrap a pull rope around the flywheel and manual pull until you get your spring starter repaired.

Here is a link to show how to do a compression test. ***Please let me know what the compression value is*** You may have to pull the rope 4 or 5 times to get maximum compression reading and pull on the rope like you mean to start it. Reminder, remove both spark plugs then test one cylinder at a time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I

Here is the part number for the carburetor kit for your motor. There is no Sierra or aftermarket kit. Only OMC kit availabel for the this motor.


Carburetor kit part number = 382048

Here is link and parts diagram for your motor and where you can by your parts at a decent price.

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=9.5&model=MQ-14D

Here are some carburetor settings.

Carb Needle Adjustments For Asorted Carb Variations by Joe Reeves

these adjustment are for the older engine. 1980 and earlier, and the current small hp ob's. not for fixed jet outboards.


(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently(turn in clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns(turn out counter clockwise). Do not tighten or force the slow idle needle shut or it may damage the needle.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in (clockwise). Wait a few seconds (10 to 15 sec) for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in(clockwise), the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again (turn your throttle slightly slower) to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out(turn out counter clockwise) the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Check your email....there will be something labelled We Transfer. It is web service that will send a link to your email address and allow to down load files up to 2 gigabits in size. If you don't see check your junk/spam mail fold just in case. Don't worry it is safe to use service(free), I use it quite often and no problems.

 

[cajuncook1]

Oh forgot to ask if you were choking the motor when you tried starting it? Use premixed fuel instead os the starter fluid.

Any way the information i sent ought to keep you entertained. 8)

 

[ENIRB]

Got the email, downloaded the file, but have yet to look at it as I had to come into work.
I have the next few days off so hopefully will have more information for you Mon/Tues.
Thanks for the help!

Thanks again, and will respond more tomorrow.

I will be ordering the carb kit tomorrow as well - thanks for the link- same site I ordered the other parts from as well, I just couldn't find the all in one kit for some reason.

 

[ENIRB]

Oh forgot to ask if you were choking the motor when you tried starting it? Use premixed fuel instead os the starter fluid.

Any way the information i sent ought to keep you entertained. 8)

I tried choked, partial choke, no choke...
I'm going to repair the rope in the morning hopefully, and then will do more diagnostics.

I'm sure there is a different way to do this, but here is my plan:I'm going to pull the rope out all the way (still connected to recoil mechanism).
Put a wood clamp on the sleeve that the rope wraps around to hold it in place (with rope extended out).
Remove old rope.
Insert new rope in its place (attaching the handle to the new rope as well).
Remove wood clamp.
Proceed to compression testing.

Sound realistic?
I don't see why it wouldn't work...

 

[cajuncook1]

The information I sent you has a walk by walk of how to change the starter rope and gives the size and length of rope you need. Sounds like your heading in the right direction. 8)

 

[ENIRB]

The information I sent you has a walk by walk of how to change the starter rope and gives the size and length of rope you need. Sounds like your heading in the right direction. 8)

Yeah, I have 2 hrs to work on the motor (during workdays), and 8 hrs to think about working on the motor. :roll:
I just keep telling myself my luck'll turn around...

 

[cajuncook1]

ENIRB,

I know you want her running good and quickly, but you are learning to repair your own motor. Not too many other guys can say that. To top it off, the work you do is not costing you $85 /hr. You will know your motor a lot better and be able to keep her up. It beats paying couple of grand for a motor that you can do little for because it requires a lot computer diagnostics.

The motors from the 1950-mid 80's are great to work with. Especially the 1950 to 1960 motors. Very very simple and easy to maintain as well. Most of us just want a reliable motor and one easy to maintain, so we can get to the fishing hole and back.

 

[ENIRB]

Got the new rope in her.

My local store here doesn't loan out compression testers, so it will have to wait until I make it into HF in town.
Additionally, I have the old head on there still that has the thread inserts (which are stuck to one of the sparkplugs), so testing would be difficult as best - at least until I order and install a new cylinder head.

Someone have the link to Bill aka BLC... he doesn't have one available.
I haven't tried other sources yet in my search for a good cylinder head besides the original finding of 60$.

I put some mixed fuel into the carb and she fired first pull... but of course that lasted mere seconds.
Wouldn't that put the problem in the carb? I am planning on ordering the kit tonight.

I might tinker a little later and pull the fuel filter...

I understand what you mean about rebuilding it myself, and I completely agree. As I've repaired and rebuilt things over the years it gives you a sense of pride, self-worth, and forms a bond between man and machine.

 

[cajuncook1]

Check your PM, I have located a cylinder head for your motor through a forum member on AOMCI website for a good price. He is a decent fellow. I will send you his information.

 

[SVOMike86]

Hey, thanks for all the great info for this motor, I have a '69. About the carb rebuild- not including soak time, it took me all of 15 minutes to rebuild it, it was 10 times easier than what I thought it would be. Also replaced the impeller in about 15-20 minutes. Mine starts right up now and runs super smooth all the way through the rpm range, but I put it on a friends 12ft V for a test run and it'll run at WOT for 100-200 yards then just die, it doesnt sputter or anything, it shuts off like the flick of a switch. So I'm guessing I've got some sort of electrical short, maybe kill switch. Keep us updated on your motor Man, I'm anxious to see how it turns out.

 

[ENIRB]

Check your PM, I have located a cylinder head for your motor through a forum member on AOMCI website for a good price. He is a decent fellow. I will send you his information.

Got the PM.
I emailed the gentleman yesterday early afternoon, if he doesn't reply by Thurs. I just give him a ring.
Thanks yet again, huge help and motivation!

 

[ENIRB]

1 382048 -- CARB REP KIT 0382048
1 18-3003 -- Impeller 18-3003

Put my order in, got the impeller because I figured might as well... being charged 10$ shipping regardless.
If it needs it I'll install it, if it doesn't I'll change it out regardless in the winter as preventive maintenance.

So hopefully by next week I'll have it.

I didn't see an impeller kit... so hopefully that's all I needed?

 

[cajuncook1]

Just as an FYI. The 9.5hp series motor is an compact and low style motor, so getting to things are a bit cramped. Just be careful with parts and screws, because they can fall into the abyss of the motor housing. I'm sure you have noticed a dark space at the base of the motor. It is advisable to put something at the base (cloth) to prevent screws from going down there. :lol:

Another couple of suggestions:

The manual I sent you has a lot of good information even though it is a 1972, there where very few changes with this motor so it pretty much applies. Johnson and Evinrude are the same motor except for some cosmetic, decal or minor differences.

- If your going to take something apart use plenty of cheap zip lock bags and label them to keep parts organized and prevent from losing them.

- Use a digital camera to take a pictures of how it was before, so you can go back to compare or help you reassembly any parts or components.

- I will tell you that if you have to take off the exhaust (motor housing) it is a bit of work, but it can be done by using the zip lock bags and taking pictures to reflect and help guide reassembly.

The reason I am telling you this, is because the tiller linkage system is not like other OMC models of that era. The linkage is unique to that series of motor and has to be disassembled and removed carefully as well as the shift mechanism to removed the exhaust(motor) housing.

The manual does not cover the tiller linkage and shift linkage mechanisms very well, so you will have to take pictures and be very careful with the parts (there are many small washes and linkages). Carefully organize them in zip lock and label them well. Take all the digital pictures you need and from different angles to help you reorganized everything.

Just thought I would pass this along.

 

[ENIRB]

Copy that.
I appeciate the advise.

The contact emailed me back, sending him a check tomorrow.

I'm done for the day... 16hrs at work... going to the Legion with the Mrs for some grub-n-chug.

I will update more as soon as I receive parts in the mail.

 

[cajuncook1]

Copy that.
I appeciate the advise.

The contact emailed me back, sending him a check tomorrow.

I'm done for the day... 16hrs at work... going to the Legion with the Mrs for some grub-n-chug.

I will update more as soon as I receive parts in the mail.

Great, to hear new about the cylinder head progress and have a great evening with your wife. Have a couple of pints of beer for me!!! 8)

FYI: It is advisable to get a new cylinder head gasket and clean the surface of the cylinder head well.

When you can, keep me posted. I too work long shifts and on/off weekends as well!

 

[ENIRB]

Got the carb kit, and impeller in the mail this afternoon.
Will probably dig into it tonight or tomorrow possibly depending on the honey-do list.

I had completely forgotten about getting a new head gasket :twisted: wish I would have remembered so I could have bundled together to save another $10 shipping fee. Oh well.

Hoping to get this finished before THIS Wed. My wife's been saying she's "itchin' for fishin'".
She's dying to try her shiny new lures...

 

[ENIRB]

Starting on the carb rebuild tonight after work :wink: , will do my best to take pics along the way.

Sent payment out for the "new" cylinder head, so hopefully have that as well by weeks end.

 

[ENIRB]

Got the motor on the bench waiting...


Got the parts ready...


Cowl off...










Carb Cleaner...


Companion...


Re-assembly Starts with suface prep...








Waiting for morning test run...

 

[ENIRB]

Another problem?

Keep in mind I'm in a bucket, and outside temps are mid 70's.

Will only run with choke on.
I've only allowed it to run for 30 seconds at most, due to the fact no water was coming from the water outlet (that I noticed).

This engine (according to my reading) has a thermostat, should it have been open under these conditions?
Afterwards I could touch the engine, albeit hot, not enough to burn on contact.

I need to buy a new tank, as I fear mine has a leak somewhere allowing pressure to slowly escape.

Slow speed is roughly 2-3 turns out, I will adjust more properly later.

Anyways, not knowing compression at this point in time; why would I only be able to run on choke, and should it be pee'ing regardless?

I don't want to ruin it...

As always, thanks again for the help...