ALUMA-JET- Duracraft 1648 SV Jetboat Conversion

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Great videos man, I enjoyed them all. Your boat runs great and sounds awesome, I can tell you have really been having fun with it. You are brave to take it in salt water.. That is some cancerous stuff! What is the white rocker switch on the right side of your console doing? I noticed you kept filming it but couldn't see what the tag said above it.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=321168#p321168 said:
painlesstom » 1 minute ago[/url]"]Great videos man, I enjoyed them all. Your boat runs great and sounds awesome, I can tell you have really been having fun with it. You are brave to take it in salt water.. That is some cancerous stuff! What is the white rocker switch on the right side of your console doing? I noticed you kept filming it but couldn't see what the tag said above it.


Thanks for the compliments! And thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed some footage of the rivers in my area.

It does sound awesome, no doubt about it, the 4 stroke purrs like a kitten at idle, but roars like a lion when you hit the throttle. You're right, salt water is some very corrosive stuff, but, it's where I live, so, I do a lot of running in salt water. The rivers are nice for giving the boat a good rinsing and flushing of fresh water. Anytime I run in salt, I make sure to thoroughly flush the engine, wash the boat and trailer as soon as I get home.

That rocker switch is a "no-wake" switch. The Yamaha jetboats use them. It's tied in to the ECM, pressing and holding for 2-3 seconds activates the no-wake mode, by bringing the engine up from 1750 RPM to around 2400, and holds it steady at that setting, like a cruise control. Like cruise control, to de-activate, simply press the switch again, or hit the throttle. Nice feature for going through idle speed areas.
 
Ahhhhh, very nice. You've definitely gone the hi-tech route, very nice setup you've put together. I still have the first couple pictures of the hull you posted, stuck in my head. Hard to believe THAT became what I see in the videos. Once again, great job. I've been getting the itch for another project, and Seadoo XP ready to offer itself as a donor.... Mini speed boat maybe?
 
Yeah, looking back at the pictures of the corrosion-damaged hull, it's amazing the thing even floated, and even more amazing was the transformation into its current state. The 4 stroke Yamaha is definitely hi-tech, especially the ability to use the YDS system to run instant diagnosis, that's just awesome.

As for another build....you ain't the only one with an itch for another project boat! I've thought the same thing, building a small, lightweight compact boat, like, 10 feet long by 3-4 ft wide, possibly even building my own hull from aluminum, and setting it up with UHMW panels, specifically for running the inland rivers above the fall line where the rocks begin. My boat is great in the coastal rivers, but not well suited for running around rocks.

Think of a small, lightweight boat like a Mokai, but with the speed of a jet john. :mrgreen:
 
Well, I've been wanting an aluminum frame trailer for my jetboat for a while. A few months ago, I called Wesco Mfg in Columbia, SC for a price on an aluminum trailer to fit a 16 ft X 4 ft johnboat. Nearly 1700 dollars!! :shock: A little too high for me.

A friend of mine buys used trailers and re-works them, then sells them to make a little cash. Think of it as "trailer flipping" LOL He recently acquired 2 aluminum frame trailers, 1 was a single axle and the other was a dual axle, with V-bent crossmembers made of 1/4X3 aluminum sq tube. Well, since the bunk boards were U-bolted to the cross members and they were used in salt water, the electrolysis ate up the crossmembers to the point they were breaking. And instead of being bolted to the trailer, they were welded, which meant replacing them would require cutting out the old ones and welding in new ones.

So, he ordered the crossmembers, and when they came, they were not V-bent, but straight. And for 2 80 inch and 1 54 inch crossmember made of 1/4x 3 aluminum sq tube, he paid about 250 dollars (we figured it as a 12 dollars a foot, or, a dollar per INCH!! ) :shock: Ouch!

Between this and some other issues, he was frustrated with it, and said he was about ready to chop it up and take it to the scrapyard. I told him "don't do that, I'll buy it from you, I can modify it for my jetboat." He said he'd think about that.
So, the next day he called and asked if I was serious about buying the trailer, and I said I was, then asked what he wanted for it. He said 300 dollars, and I said "SOLD!" He said that also included 2 of the 4 brand new tires and rims. So, since he made me a deal like that, I decided to help him out and buy the crossmembers from him, as he wasn't able to use them and was about to eat 250 dollars.

So, right now, I've got 550 dollars in it, and have to spend just a little more for a new set of slider tracks and springs, new axle and new fenders, and it'll be done.

On to pictures.........


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Here it is, as purchased. Take a good look, because it's about to undergo some major surgery.


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Cross member, destroyed by electrolysis



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Double axles. When completed, it will be a single axle, as my boat weighs about 1100 lbs, I don't need dual axles.



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Here's my current trailer for the jetboat. Made from 2x3 rectangular galvanized tubing. Overall, it's in good shape. The last foot of the longitudinal members of the frame are heavily rusted, the bottom side is rusted out. Also, the rear crossmember is heavily rusted, not compromised yet, but I'm ready for an aluminum trailer and be done with all the unsightly rust.

Once I get the aluminum trailer built, I'll be donating this to my buddy that I bought the trailer from, to help him out, again, he gave me a good deal on the aluminum trailer.

OK, so right now, my existing trailer is 60 inches wide, by about 13 ft from the rear crossmember to the beginning of the tongue, where the 2 sides meet. The aluminum trailer is about 19 feet long, by 80 inches wide. So, it's gotta be cut down and made more narrow.

Here we go.....


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CHOP, CHOP!

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Old cross members and axles.


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Removed the original tongue with brake system, the heavy winch post, and the 2 tires and rims that go back to my buddy.


And here's the tongue section I cut off, nearly 6 foot long (5 ft straight edge stood up in center, for reference

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OK, as you saw in the photos, the front axle had a bend, and the rear one was straight. While the front was heavily rusted, the rear one was in good shape, so, my plan was to modify it. But you know how plans go.

Now, this REALLY p!sses me off....
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I thought I was going to be able to clean up the surface rust, cut the axle shorter and use a sleeve, and be able to re-use it. Until I saw a hole drilled for the spring bolt....GRRRRRR :x :x :x When I saw that, I flung the axle across the driveway with a few expletives.

For the love of God, how hard is it to take a piece of 2" X 3/8" flat bar, punch a hole on center, and cut it 2 inches long, and weld the pad onto the axle? Using that method, the axle is strong. With a hole drilled....well, you might as well take a torch and cut a big notch somewhere in the tube. Because that hole lets water in, so then you have to contend with rust not only on the outside, but on the inside, too. Then, the hole itself acts like a stress riser, and once it starts rusting, guess where it breaks?

With all that said, I'm just going to bite the bullet and buy a factory axle with hubs for 125 dollars, as it's already hot dipped galvanized, something I'm not able to do when I build axles. Wasn't counting on that expense, but due to some $%^&# drilling holes in the axle, that's what I have to do.

OK, sorry for the rant....back to it

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Need to draw it in, so the distance between the webs of the 2 beams is 3 inches, where the tongue will go.


Notch
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.....and bend
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There we go. Hated to have to cut it to make it bend, but that was the only way. I'll just V out and weld all the cut areas from both sides, then fish-plate with some 1/4" aluminum plate.



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I figure on using a piece of the drop from the 80" cross member, to make a short cross member to tie the tongue into.

For all my cross members, I'm going to make end plates with pre-punched holes, so they can bolt to the flanges of the aluminum I-beam.


So, my next step is to make the end plates and weld to the cross members and bolt everything up. And to weld up the notched area on each beam and reinforce by fish-plating. Then attach the tongue, winch stand, etc. Then the slider tracks, axle, and running gear.

Will post more pics as it moves along.
 
Thanks!

One other issue I have to contend with is some bad electrolysis on the underside of the beam, where the slider track was in contact with it. It's about a 6 foot section on each beam, eat up pretty bad. Not yet compromised or cracking, but it needs to be addressed to prevent that.

So, the plan is to take a section of 3" wide by 1/4" thick aluminum flat stock, and fish-plate the corroded section under each beam. I know that the slider track does provide a good bit of structural strength, but remember, I'm going to a single axle, so, the track is going to be shorter than the original, which leaves an open area of electrolysis-damaged material. I'll pick up some flat stock today, and get this problem addressed.

New axle, slider tracks, springs, etc were ordered this morning, and will be here around mid-week. Another 325 dollars for all that, so, now I'm up to 875 dollars in this trailer. Still, it's cheaper than 1700 dollars for a new one!
 
Sorry to hear about the trout, but it was the inevitable conclusion. You were able to keep them long enough to grow to a respectable size for table fare. Have you thought about trying Tilapia in the summer months? Think of them as the polar opposite of trout. Fast growing, good to eat, but can't take cold water.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322412#p322412 said:
Lowe 2070 CC » Today, 12:42[/url]"]Sorry to hear about the trout, but it was the inevitable conclusion. You were able to keep them long enough to grow to a respectable size for table fare. Have you thought about trying Tilapia in the summer months? Think of them as the polar opposite of trout. Fast growing, good to eat, but can't take cold water.


Yeah, it was kinda sad to see the trout come to an end, they really were the life of the pond. It was enjoyable watching them grow and occasionally catching and releasing a few here and there along the way. And feeding them out of my hand...amazing. I never would have thought that rainbow trout could be tame enough to eat out of your hand, but, I reckon when fish get used to seeing people and associating them with food, they lose the instinct to run and hide like they would in a wild stream.

But now, having done this experiment, I basically know what the limitations are for what the trout will survive, and it's basically everything I read .....and what you told me, above 75 degrees, they turn off like a light switch. I was holding out hope an optimism that somehow the laws of nature would cease to exist in my pond and I've have trout year round, but in the back of my head, I knew at some point, they wouldn't be able to tolerate heat.

As for the tilapia, I have been thinking about that. One of my buddies told me that tilapia is very good eating. And I know that they also do a good job of cleaning up ponds, as they are used for that purpose in striped bass aquaculture. Since tilapia can survive down to about 55 degrees, I figure the pond could be stocked around March, and then harvest them out by November-December, which should give them enough time to grow, and by that time, the water's cold enough for the trout. As for the bream I have in there, well, they live as year-round residents.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322162#p322162 said:
PSG-1 » 12 Jul 2013, 23:58[/url]"]
As for another build....you ain't the only one with an itch for another project boat! I've thought the same thing, building a small, lightweight compact boat, like, 10 feet long by 3-4 ft wide, possibly even building my own hull from aluminum, and setting it up with UHMW panels, specifically for running the inland rivers above the fall line where the rocks begin. My boat is great in the coastal rivers, but not well suited for running around rocks.

Think of a small, lightweight boat like a Mokai, but with the speed of a jet john. :mrgreen:

Pretty much what I have in mind as well, only this time I will start with a fiberglass hull. I found this Panther 13' 9" duck boat, it's 39" wide and looking like a very nice home to the SeaDoo XP donor ski I have with the 657 85hp motor. I'll start a new thread when I get around to starting the project. I think it's going to be a fun ride.

That's going to be a nice trailer when you get finished, the price is right... luckily you can provide the labor. Very ambitious project, I don't have the patience to deal with all the corrosion and rust. Hope it goes as planned, look forward to seeing the finished result!
 

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Got a little more done today.


New parts arrived this morning! Wow, that was FAST, considering they were only ordered yesterday. I think I might have to start doing business with Wesco.

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New axle with hubs, slider tracks, springs, diamondplate aluminum fenders, and all mounting hardware, 325 dollars.

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Originally I was going to bolt the cross members, but I decided to just go ahead and weld them. My thought was bolting them would make them easy to replace if they ever got eaten up by electrolysis, but the fact is, I always rinse my stuff after use in salt water, so, I'm not too worried about it. Besides, since they're straight cross members, instead of V-bent, they can always be replaced with a section, and a sleeve.

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Here's a shot of the underside, showing horrible corrosion from the old slider tracks.

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And here's a shot of the fish plate, made from 1/4 x 3 x 6 ft. The outside of the flange is pretty eat up with electrolysis, I'll have to find the best places I can to try to put a few stitch welds, but the inside edge looks like I can get some stitch welds anywhere along its length. Plus a weld on either end, then the slider tracks will bolt all of it together.

I had thought about cutting away the damaged area of the bottom flange, and welding the flat bar along the web of the I-beam, but I'm afraid of compromising the structural integrity, so, I think it's best to just leave it and fish plate over it.

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Closing in on her now, guys:


Now flipped back over, with sliders, springs, fenders, axle and wheels installed.

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The factory 'step' is plain galvanized, so, I had an idea. turns out I had some 1/8" aluminum diamondplate left over in my drop bin, so, I cut 4 pieces like this....

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And riveted them to the steps with 3/16 rivets

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A shot from the front. You can see how I tied it all together. It's pretty stout, yet, lightweight.

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Wesco sent 4 U-bolts to attach the sliders to the frame. Unfortunately, those U-bolts were for attaching something to a 3x3 sq tube, not I-beam. But that's OK, because I was able to use them to install my new bunk brackets, so, that worked out nicely

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I went to Marine Service Center and bought 4 U-bolts that were large enough for the I-beam. While I was there I picked up those bunk brackets. In this photo you can see the 3 x 6" U-bolts. The very bottom plate is the slider track, made of 3x 1/4" galvanized flat bar. The next plate, between the slider and the flange, is my fish-plate. You can see a couple of those stitch welds down the side. I may put a few more on there for good measure, but I think the U-bolts will hold it all together even without the additional welds.

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This shot is from the underside of the trailer, showing where the fish plate overlaps the flange, with a weld across the end.

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One more showing the axle and running gear.

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At this point, all I need to do is put on some guides, and wire up the lights. Then install a set of bunk boards.


Once that's done, I'll launch my jetboat, and tie up at the dock, then bring the trailer back to the house, remove the winch post, jack, spare tire, and coupler, and install those on the aluminum trailer. Then it'll be ready for the boat! =D>


All together, right now, I've got close to $1,000 in this project, which was really a lot more than I wanted to spend :shock: Still have to spend a little more for a new set of lights and wires, but then it's done as far as spending money.

I noticed this trailer sits about 6" higher than my existing trailer, but 3" of that height difference is because of the larger tires (188ST versus the 4.80x 12 on my existing trailer)

The good thing about it being higher is that it'll be easier for me to crawl underneath when I need to service the pump, or re-paint the hull. Also, being higher, launching at ramps with pluff mud, it won't have such a tendency to sink all the way up to the frame cross members (hopefully, anyhow)

When I got it put together, I took a green scotch brite pad, with a little water and scrubbed the outside and top sides of the I-beam, and was surprised how well and easy they cleaned up. Might do a little more scrubbing with the scotch brite and baking soda, and see if I can get it a little shinier, to match those pretty new fenders!
 
Nothing quite like welding aluminum in summer eh?

Would it be simpler to jack stand your hull and slide the trailer out from under it, then fit the bunks etc on the new trailer in your driveway vs. at the ramp? Set the tongue on the ground, jack stand the rear corners and lift the tongue back up. You could probably get the nose lifted with and engine hoist and turn the trailer sideways out from under the hull.

I used my loader to lift the front once the stands were under the back but that might be considered cheating to you Southern fellows. :wink:
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322769#p322769 said:
painlesstom » 5 minutes ago[/url]"]Looking sharp man. I really like the diamond plate fenders, nice touch.

Thanks! The folks at Wesco did me right on that order, all that stuff was 325 dollars, including the fenders.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322771#p322771 said:
Ranchero50 » 4 minutes ago[/url]"]Nothing quite like welding aluminum in summer eh?

You must be a tiger, or a panther, or maybe even a cheetah, 'cause you sure as heck ain't a-lyin' :LOL2: :mrgreen:

But I've welded in hotter conditions. For some REAL summer fun, try welding galvanized pipe inside a hose-drying tower at a fire department, it's like being in a chimney, but worse. Had to use a respirator hood, and the smoke was so thick, you couldn't see your hand in front of your face. Only thing more fun is sandblasting! LOL


The heat and humidity around here has been awful since we've had all that rainfall. My shop isn't hot first thing in the morning, and it won't get hot unless I open the doors. Unfortunately, welding with 5356 aluminum wire, it creates a LOT of smoke, so, the doors have to be opened. If I was welding with 4043, I could leave the doors closed, heck, I could even run my shop's A/c and be right comfortable....but 4043 isn't made for use in marine applications. And welding aluminum gives off a much brighter arc than steel, so, leather sleeves are a must, and that just makes it even hotter!

Once I got everything welded, I took a cool shower and turned on the shops' A/C to do all the assembly of the axle, etc.





Would it be simpler to jack stand your hull and slide the trailer out from under it, then fit the bunks etc on the new trailer in your driveway vs. at the ramp? Set the tongue on the ground, jack stand the rear corners and lift the tongue back up. You could probably get the nose lifted with and engine hoist and turn the trailer sideways out from under the hull.

I used my loader to lift the front once the stands were under the back but that might be considered cheating to you Southern fellows. :wink:


It probably would be pretty simple to jack the boat up and swap trailers. But, it's not really a problem, as the dock is right across from the house, and the ramp is close by. I'll just plan to put the boat in for a day or two, do a little fishing or maybe some waterskiing, then when I haul it out, the new trailer will have the winch stand, etc installed and will be ready for the boat. As far as setting the bunks, I already measured center to center for the ones on the existing trailer, and set the ones on the new trailer for the same width, so, it should go right on there.

One project I plan to do this fall or winter is to build 2 column frames in my shop, with a beam between them, and a chain hoist, so I can lift boats from trailers, lift trailers, or whatever else I need to.
 
OK, here she is:


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Check out these guides, made from 1 & 1/2 aluminum pipe, inset into some 3x3x 1/4 square tube welded to the frame.
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Took some 1/8 diamondplate and made brackets for the lights
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Here it is, next to the jetboat trailer.
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Notice the additional cross member right where the I-beam makes the inward turn. I decided to go ahead and put one there, because when I stood on the A-frame section of the I-beam, I noticed that it had a tendency to twist outward. With aluminum structures, it's important to minimize flexing, as too much flex will lead to eventual breakage.




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Looks like my jetboat is going to be at least 8" higher off the ground, but as I said before, that will be a good thing if I need to re-paint my hull, or service the pump.


Anyhow, all told, I've got at least $1000 in this trailer, not to mention my labor. But, considering what I ended up with, I think it was worth the investment of time and money. The boat will be more presentable on a shiny new trailer like this, instead of the old rust bucket I've been using.



So one more time.....

Before:

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After:
 

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Looks great man. I wonder how much further you will have back down the ramp now with the added height? I have an aversion to backing my truck into the water before the boat starts to float, had to drop my bunks directly onto the frame and use smaller tires. Maybe your ramp is steeper, but figured I'd pass the thought along, especially since you play in salt water.
 

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