Anyone ever make their own power trim????

[thill]

Guys,<br>
I have a 1975 Evinrude 35 on my 16' Princecraft. Engine runs like a top. Only thing I would like is power trim.<br>
<br>
Saw an electric actuator that lifts over 1,000 lbs with an 8" stroke for $28...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MK1X89X

I wonder if I could Plasti-Dip this thing and make a power tilt trim unit out of it?
Has anyone ever tried anything like this?

 

[turbotodd]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEcG3dkZyTg

Make sure you find one that is totally waterproof and designed specifically to be used in/under water. Those are a little more expensive. There is possibility to run a hydraulic setup, if you can source a pump and cylinder.

I have some experience with linear actuators at my old job on a mower deck lift system. It was the most commonly replaced part on those mowers, and not real cheap ($260+) so I am not really a fan of electric linear actuators. BUT on other mowers, they were hydraulic....and they never (ever) had a problem with anything but hoses.

the bracket is easy to make. 4x4x1/4 angle at the minimum, similar to a DIY jack plate, bolt in the top to pivot on. Actuator probably needs about 5" of travel, roughly. Should be real close. Look at a CMC PT130 or PT35 and you can get ideas.

 

[MrGiggles]

It may work as a tilt cylinder, but I'm not sure that it would lift it while underway. You have a lot of horsepower acting on a 2ft lever to lift against.

The hydraulics in power trim setups have lifting capacities measured in tons, not pounds.

The math and physics is a little above my understanding, hopefully there is another member on here that could figure out how much force it would take.

As for DIYing a hydraulic setup, I doubt you could source everything and come up with something for a price that is less than a bolt in CMC unit.

 

[eeshaw]

The thing about the aftermarket units is the hydraulic actuators are usually a proprietary design, hence the small size. The OEM units are a lot larger but they're more common so that's the way I'd go. Plus you know going into it that they're made for the environment they'll be working in. If you go with aluminum the stock required for supporting the motors weight isn't cheap. It's usually around a half inch thick and you'd want something rated for marine use unless you'll just be using it in clean fresh water. Briny water or salt you should use a 5000 series material. Like was mentioned earlier, you'd be better off buying a used unit, or new. Unless you have a lot of time and like making stuff it would be time consuming but a whole lot of fun! I've dabbled with them and have the hydraulic units just for making other stuff. I've got one off a 60 HP Mercury that I'm going to use for a power dump on a wheel barrow.

 

[thill]

Wow, that gives me a lot to think about! The one I ordered puts out something like 1,360 lbs of thrust, but I'm not sure how much power a 40 HP engine needs to hold it. I'm guessing you are right, that it will not be enough.

A new trim pump for my 40 Etec is about $1,300, used, they are $400-$750. Expensive little buggers! Not sure if they even make a trim motor for my old 35 HP. Would have to research more.

Maybe what I should be looking for are hydraulic cylinders and a little pump. I wonder if I could make a setup for substantially less than $400? Any thoughts?

THANK YOU for the well-informed replies!

 

[eeshaw]

The problem is finding something designed to operate in a environment where the cylinder is submerged.

 

[thill]

Yes.
I was hoping to be able to dip it in something like Plasti-dip, or maybe truck bed liner material, but that doesn't make the piston waterproof, does it? Hmmmmm......

I'm almost thinking of giving up now. Now it makes more sense why the ones I have seen used lever arms, and were mounted up high. I might need to take a more careful look at those other ones

 

[DaleH]

For that anticipated pricing, go for a Panther or CMC aux power trim/tilt.

 

[user 29]

When I went down to a 9.9 because of local lake limits, I researched aftermarket devices but couldn’t find any. I’m not sure if it would be a wise choice to pursue in one’s basement because of possible loss of control on the water. You’re not endangering your own life but passengers you may be carrying and other boats on the water.

 

[MrGiggles]

Yes.
I was hoping to be able to dip it in something like Plasti-dip, or maybe truck bed liner material, but that doesn't make the piston waterproof, does it? Hmmmmm......

I'm almost thinking of giving up now. Now it makes more sense why the ones I have seen used lever arms, and were mounted up high. I might need to take a more careful look at those other ones

Most cylinders have dual seals to keep dirt and water out and oil in. I suspect they would probably work just fine to keep water out, as long as it's double acting.

There are small hydraulic power units for power poles and stuff, but I don't know what kind of pressure that they make.

 

[thill]

When I went down to a 9.9 because of local lake limits, I researched aftermarket devices but couldn’t find any. I’m not sure if it would be a wise choice to pursue in one’s basement because of possible loss of control on the water. You’re not endangering your own life but passengers you may be carrying and other boats on the water.

How could a trim unit cause loss of control? Trying to imagine a scenario where this could happen, but either way, I appreciate the advice to be cautious.

 

[thill]

For that anticipated pricing, go for a Panther or CMC aux power trim/tilt.

I've had both of those in the past, and they work well, but are a bit pricey for a cheap little boat like mine. Would cost more than my boat and engine put together.

 

[user 29]

When I went down to a 9.9 because of local lake limits, I researched aftermarket devices but couldn’t find any. I’m not sure if it would be a wise choice to pursue in one’s basement because of possible loss of control on the water. You’re not endangering your own life but passengers you may be carrying and other boats on the water.

How could a trim unit cause loss of control? Trying to imagine a scenario where this could happen, but either way, I appreciate the advice to be cautious.

It’s the law of unintended consequences. Sometimes sh*t just goes sideways!
One of the better pieces of advice I’ve ever received, “The road to Hell is paved with good intentions.”

 

[thill]

That makes me think of a character named "Glum" from a cartoon back in the 1970's called "Gulliver's Adventures."

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KvNt5NG-GM[/media]

 

[FishinLite]

Here is a used one on ebay. Needs a little work but the price is right.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CMC-T-H-Marine-Hydraulic-Actuator-P-N-7050-for-jack-plates-and-tilt-trim-units/164519623824?epid=1364888991&hash=item264e223c90:g:BFgAAOSw~X1ftCDP

 

[onthewater102]

Lenco makes a waterproof linear actuator to be used with trim tabs. You can get them for about $200 and with some finagling you could make it work for a small motor.

 

[thill]

Thank you for that link. That unit isn't what I need, but the links at the bottom of the page led me to several others.

It seems my best option is to use a lift cylinder from an older outboard and a remote hydraulic pump. Saves weight, and proven in marine environment.

I might still play with the linear actuator, but it will probably end up opening and closing the door on the chicken coop.

 

[turbotodd]

cmc/th marine do not offer a single part for their actuators so if something goes wrong, you either buy a new actuator (about $400) or replace the entire unit, or buy another brand. Or take it apart and see if you can find a part to fix it. To my knowledge, the brush plate assembly...is proprietary, noone locally has found another one like it (yet). That is a common failure area on the cmc actuators.

I can't speak for Bob's or any other brand, haven't dealt with them.

I have a cook (CMC) on mine that so far is working ok

 

[eeshaw]

Thank you for that link. That unit isn't what I need, but the links at the bottom of the page led me to several others.

It seems my best option is to use a lift cylinder from an older outboard and a remote hydraulic pump. Saves weight, and proven in marine environment.

I might still play with the linear actuator, but it will probably end up opening and closing the door on the chicken coop.

Just get you a used OEM unit and adapt it. It will have the hydraulics built into it instead of a seperate reservoir. Then all you'll have to do is route the electric trim switch where ever you decide you need it placed.