At what point do you abandon ship?

[AR.223]

Say you’re working on fixing up a boat, what would make you question if it’s worth the time and money? The boat I’m working on has 154 holes that needs filled and I found corrosion on transom that goes all the way through last night. I’m thinking of cutting out the entire transom and rebuilding it from ground up. Ditch the wood that caused the corrosion. I was bummed to find that the wood had eat through the outer transom skin. But it’s nothing that can’t be fixed.

 

[LDUBS]

Yikes! Looks like the Sonny Corleone's car at the toll booth.

If I wanted a project and enjoyed doing it, then I would fix it up enough to be safe and functional. But I probably would not go so far as to replace the whole transom skin. Maybe patches or double up the skin with a layer on the inside (see this thread: https://www.tinboats.net/threads/tr...tarcraft-superfisherman-176.51160/post-510400).

Otherwise, if it was not a labor of love, I think I would call it a day and look for another.

 

[airshot]

You have gotten a lot further along than I would....been scrapped a long time before now ! Of course I did many crazy things in my younger days....at least I have gotten a little smarter in my old age !!

 

[flatheadsteve]

Looks like a great candidate to learn how to weld aluminum on and you won't feel bad when you screw it up while learning.

 

[Bailey Boat]

IMHO...... you have a choice, finish rehabbing the hull or take up Pickleball....

 

[MrGiggles]

I'd say it depends on the boat and whether or not a replacement that's in better shape could be bought for significantly less money and time than the one you currently have.

I'd be hesitant to put that much work into a 14ft jon boat that's a dime a dozen around here, but I'd be a lot more lenient on something like a 20ft SeaArk that has some inherent value.

 

[Wayne Roberts]

Say you’re working on fixing up a boat, what would make you question if it’s worth the time and money? The boat I’m working on has 154 holes that needs filled and I found corrosion on transom that goes all the way through last night. I’m thinking of cutting out the entire transom and rebuilding it from ground up. Ditch the wood that caused the corrosion. I was bummed to find that the wood had eat through the outer transom skin. But it’s nothing that can’t be fixed.

We don't quit. Let's get er back in the water better than ever!

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

We don't quit. Let's get er back in the water better than ever!

Aluminum submarine! lol
You can put patches on with 3M5200.

 

[Challenger]

I'd fix it. I'm too stupid to quit.

 

[AR.223]

Well I jumped ship, trying to find a hull that’s 16/48 and rated for 50 is a lot harder than I thought

 

[flatheadsteve]

Well I jumped ship, trying to find a hull that’s 16/48 and rated for 50 is a lot harder than I thought

Your going to have to look at seaark, havoc, gator trax for a 1648 rated that high.

 

[thill]

Go wider. 1654, 1660 or whatever. Unless you need a narrower boat for some reason

 

[beagle]

I've got a 1544 Alumacraft "Bass Pro" that was rated for 65, but that was two stroke era (1977). It was fine for an old guy with a 35 on it. A lot of the old Trackers were rated pretty high. A buddy had a early 80's Tracker Tournament TX 17, not sure how wide, but rated and mounted with an 80hp Mercury. It was ridiculously overpowered, scary, and prone to popping rivets. It would have been a great boat with a 50 I think. The 80 and teenage boy throttle settings kind of killed it. They are out there, but likely need a pile of labor to bring them back.

/edit - anything rated over 25 or so HP you might want to consider a console. Both of the boats I mentioned are console steering and that has a lot to do with their HP rating.

 

[AR.223]

Reason I’m set on a 1648 right now is bc I have a brand new never touch the water trailer for a 1648, anything wider then a 48 I would have to raise the bunks and let the boat set over the fenders. Also. My outboard is a 2008/09 Yamaha 50hp 2stroke.

The tracker grizzly 1648 would be perfect if it wasn’t rated for only 40hp, however, if you purchase the package that comes with console it’s rated for 50hp but I don’t think you can get it with out motor and trailer.

I may just get a wider boat as mentioned and get a matching trailer for it then sell my current new one

 

[Burner208]

I'd braze those over than sand smooth.

 

[thill]

Say you’re working on fixing up a boat, what would make you question if it’s worth the time and money? The boat I’m working on has 154 holes that needs filled and I found corrosion on transom that goes all the way through last night. I’m thinking of cutting out the entire transom and rebuilding it from ground up. Ditch the wood that caused the corrosion. I was bummed to find that the wood had eat through the outer transom skin. But it’s nothing that can’t be fixed.

If you want a quick fix, you could open the holes to 3/16 and hit them all with solid rivets. I did that on a boat I didn't want to put a lot of time into. They take 10 seconds to install, especially if you can get someone to hold the anvil while you tap them in.

Paint them to match, and surprisingly, you don't really notice them, since there are rivets everywhere anyway. And they don't leak. It's a win-win for an old boat that's not worth that much.

 

[OldSailor85]

I'd braze those over than sand smooth.

What kind of rod and flux do you use to braze aluminum?

I've brazed steel a lifetime ago. Aluminum was heli-arc, then TIG/MIG