Balancing a 12ft Jon Boat well with oversized Outboard motor (20hp)

[LDUBS]

those things are far too costly for me to pay for, this is a used old boat, a center console is a dream for me that cannot be achieved

It would be expensive and I tend to agree inappropriate for that boat. I should have been more clear I was responded to your comment in post #15 about remote controls for gaso outboards.

 

[Still Afloat]

It's far easier to just rarely drive fast which is what I do for safety and comfort since it is a flatbottom boat that bangs on waves too hard, so I reserve full throttle for the rare occasion when there is no wind or waves to enjoy a wild run at high speed.

That Suzuki DF-20 and DF 9.9 weigh around 100 pounds. I have the same motor on my Lowe 1448M and it‘s about right.

I understand if you’re sticking with a budget. If you can’t buy a bigger boat then sell the 20 and go with a lighter motor. Maybe a 4 or 5hp or just an electric trolling motor. If you go with a small electric trolling motor you will really need to watch the wind because a 40 or 50 pound thrust trolling motor is pretty worthless if you’re bucking 15 mph winds or higher.

I’m out of ideas so I’ll drop off this thread. You have plenty of good advice even though it’s probably not what you wanted to hear. Sorry that you bought a boat that is too small. It happens. Learn and live.

 

[MDCrappie]

It's a 2016 Suzuki 20hp, so I don't know if that is heavier than a 9.9hp or not, not sure if it is EFI but I think it is. I already did the battery and fuel things your mentioned. PLEASE tell me how do I go remote control? I never heard of that with gas motors, only trolling motors have that option I thought.
You asked so I will tell you the boat hull is barely 3 feet wide and I weigh almost 200. I eagerly wait news about 'remote control' for my gas motor, that would solve the problem if I could move my body to the center of boat and steer remotely!

Please post a pic of the capacity plate. I'm guess that based on the USCG formula the plate is fraudulent. A 12' boat with a 3' beam would have a capacity of 5hp. See below.

In reference to the remote control of the motor. Based on your none existent budget you can't afford it. You need a control box which controls shifting and throttle as well as a steering box and cable. You're looking at $300 for just the steering and another $250 for the box. Then you have to have cables.


(a) The maximum horsepower capacity must be computed as follows:

(1) Compute a factor by multiplying the boat length in feet by the maximum transom width in feet excluding handles and other similar fittings, attachments, and extensions. If the boat does not have a full transom, the transom width is the broadest beam in the aftermost quarter length of the boat.

(2) Locate horsepower capacity corresponding to the factor in Table 183.53.

(3) For a boat with a factor over 52.5, if the horsepower capacity calculated in Table 183.53 is not an exact multiple of 5, it may be raised to the next exact multiple of 5.

(4) For flat bottom hard chine boats with a factor of 52 or less, the horsepower capacity must be reduced by one horsepower capacity increment in Table 183.53.

Table 183.53—Outboard Boat Horsepower Capacity
[Compute: Factor = Boat Length × Transom Width]

If factor (nearest integer) is	0–35	36–39	40–42	43–45	46–52
Horsepower Capacity is	3	5	7.5	10	15

 

[sonny1]

I have a 14 ft mod-v hull lonestar and it is rated max at 12 horse. Been thinking and figure about 5 horse is good enough. Most of the time I will be going solo and have no need to go fast at all. I really do not get in much of a hurry at all since retiring. Plan on fishing a lot of backwaters so speed would not be a good idea at all. I just want something that will get me there and back and not have to worry about it.

My post was inline with your problem. What part about to big of a motor did you not understand.

 

[Sea Antsy]

I have a 14 ft mod-v hull lonestar and it is rated max at 12 horse. Been thinking and figure about 5 horse is good enough. Most of the time I will be going solo and have no need to go fast at all. I really do not get in much of a hurry at all since retiring. Plan on fishing a lot of backwaters so speed would not be a good idea at all. I just want something that will get me there and back and not have to worry about it.

I agree with ya bro..we are in the same boat so to speak... here is another consideration... 2cyl vs 1 cyl... I have a 6hp Merc 4stroke.. it's a very large single cyll. and its noisy, and it vibrates the transom and the whole tinny at any rpm.. but at slow trolling speeds, or idle, it's especially noticeable.. and its tricky to idle down slow enough to keep it tickin over...I back troll a lot to slow my drift..
then there is the weight .. and manageability by one olde guy..
lots of mature 6hp 2stroke 2 cyll 'rude/jonny's out there fer cheaper
and the yammies even up to 8hp 2stokes are sweet and about the same weight.

 

[sonny1]

Am actively looking for a 2 stroke but so far have not had much luck.

 

[Sea Antsy]

Am actively looking for a 2 stroke but so far have not had much luck.

Ok so that's ONE looker for a good motor.. .break a Benjamin into 5 easy pieces.. and go to your local outboard sales/repair shops passing out one piece at each and mention a nice finders fee if someone comes up with a GOOD trade in.... now you got 5 more eyes out there...

 

[jethro]

I wish you would focus on the question.....how do I balance it?

You are getting frustrated by asking a question that has no answer. You can't make a round peg fit a square hole. Sell the motor or sell the boat or both for cripes sake and get a correct, safe setup. Or don't ask questions you won't like the answer to!! Simple man, you got the wrong setup, it's not only unsafe it's likely illegal as far as USCG goes and your liability insurance goes (which I pray you have in place- you will need it) and if you don't want our help then don't ask and CERTAINLY don't get frustrated at us because we are giving you, accurate, experienced advice. If the motor runs well, it's worth money. If the boat is solid, it's also worth money. Anyway, I've had enough, WEAR- YOUR- TETHER!!!

 

[DaleH]

The Gospel according to Jethro ... but well said, as I agree 110%!

 

[Mike D]

I have a 1436 with a 20 horsepower motor. The motor is/was too heavy for my boat and I have the same problem with the tiller being too close. I have pods riveted to the back of mine that add extra buoyancy. The pods make a huge difference. I am going to add a jack plate with 4" of setback to move the tiller back a little bit and to allow me to change the height of the motor relative to the cavitation plate and the hull of the boat (wouldn't be practical without the pods). My little boat is quick and corners hard and if I'm not carful it could easily eject a passenger. That said, its a blast to drive and can get into skinny, shallow water with ease.

Examples of the type of pods I'm talking about are:

https://tbnation.net/products/float-podshttps://www.amazon.com/Beavertail-F...eywords=beavertail+pods&qid=1692975873&sr=8-1

 

[Striper57]

You are getting frustrated by asking a question that has no answer. You can't make a round peg fit a square hole. Sell the motor or sell the boat or both for cripes sake and get a correct, safe setup. Or don't ask questions you won't like the answer to!! Simple man, you got the wrong setup, it's not only unsafe it's likely illegal as far as USCG goes and your liability insurance goes (which I pray you have in place- you will need it) and if you don't want our help then don't ask and CERTAINLY don't get frustrated at us because we are giving you, accurate, experienced advice. If the motor runs well, it's worth money. If the boat is solid, it's also worth money. Anyway, I've had enough, WEAR- YOUR- TETHER!!!

AMEN! This is the correct answer. You can't make a boat and motor combination work if they aren't meant to be without major modifications to the boat, which will end up costing more than another boat that will work with your engine.

 

[wis bang]

It is physics, you are over powering the hull.
As advised above, make sure you wear the tether as a full power run WILL toss you out.
Keep to the moderate speeds and start looking for a smaller engine.
I use an older Tohatsu 3.5 on my 14/48 to get along at 5mph and is enough to buck a headwind, paid $200.00 for it.
My old tin is rated for 25hp and the later [last version made] dropped it to 20hp and I don't know if I'd want that much engine.
The guy I bought if from said the previous owner said he tried a 25 and it was beyond scary.....

 

[bronxborn]

I wish you would focus on the question.....how do I balance it?

So you want to keep this highly dangerous setup, got no money to modify it, and asking how to balance it. Well you answered your own question a while ago when you said having an adult up front helped out some. OK.

Get some sandbags and throw them up front and to the port side to simulate another humans weight - knock on wood and say a prayer before you head out.

If I was that desperate to run that setup in a "safer" manner, I would build some outriggers that can clamp on like these
- HD Jon Boat Stabilizer Float Package - Spring Creek

This is only putting a patch on a hole that still leaks no matter how thick the patch is.

 

[kazzer]

Please post a pic of the capacity plate. I'm guess that based on the USCG formula the plate is fraudulent. A 12' boat with a 3' beam would have a capacity of 5hp. See below.

In reference to the remote control of the motor. Based on your none existent budget you can't afford it. You need a control box which controls shifting and throttle as well as a steering box and cable. You're looking at $300 for just the steering and another $250 for the box. Then you have to have cables.


(a) The maximum horsepower capacity must be computed as follows:

(1) Compute a factor by multiplying the boat length in feet by the maximum transom width in feet excluding handles and other similar fittings, attachments, and extensions. If the boat does not have a full transom, the transom width is the broadest beam in the aftermost quarter length of the boat.

(2) Locate horsepower capacity corresponding to the factor in Table 183.53.

(3) For a boat with a factor over 52.5, if the horsepower capacity calculated in Table 183.53 is not an exact multiple of 5, it may be raised to the next exact multiple of 5.

(4) For flat bottom hard chine boats with a factor of 52 or less, the horsepower capacity must be reduced by one horsepower capacity increment in Table 183.53.

Table 183.53—Outboard Boat Horsepower Capacity
[Compute: Factor = Boat Length × Transom Width]

If factor (nearest integer) is	0–35	36–39	40–42	43–45	46–52
Horsepower Capacity is	3	5	7.5	10	15

I'd love it if you could post this on our forum for mud-skipper. We have too many folks tweaking engines and over powering their boats, and they have scant regard for their own safety. Please see OFFICIAL Mud-skipper Mud Motor Group | Facebook
Thanks

 

[Bailey Boat]

IMHO..... putting 2 adults in a 12' boat is stretching things to the limit and then over horse powering that same boat is dancing with the Devil, and he's going to win!!

My little boat is 12 X 36 and I'm the only one I allow in the boat (except the 35# dog) and it is rated for 10 hp and I have a 9.9, 4 stroke Merc. It runs WOT at 24 mph and that's plenty fast enough.

I know you haven't received the answers you want to hear but they are spot on, your going to hurt yourself and there will only be YOU to blame....

 

[flatheadsteve]

I'd love it if you could post this on our forum for mud-skipper. We have too many folks tweaking engines and over powering their boats, and they have scant regard for their own safety. Please see OFFICIAL Mud-skipper Mud Motor Group | Facebook
Thanks

It doesn't really bother me that people do silly things on the water that threaten their own safety. It's when they have no regard that their actions also threaten the safety of everyone else out on the water. We just had a death at the local lake this week due to negligence.

 

[Fishingman48]

It would be expensive and I tend to agree inappropriate for that boat. I should have been clearer I was responded to your comment in post #15 about remote controls for gaso outboards.

I have a 12ft Jon Boat new to me with a 20hp Suzuki outboard and it is really too heavy as I sit on back bench with seat nearly all the way to right side of bench so that I can actually steer since tiller needs the center of back bench area. I am the only one aboard and it puts too much weight on back right corner of boat, only a few inches of boat above water there. It is terrifying when I steer at high speeds because just the slightest movement of tiller left or right overpowers the boat's balance and things go haywire, so I have to slow down so much to make slight turns. I hope you will advise me on how to rectify this problem for safety reasons. My plan is to get a tiller extension and try to sit in the middle of the bench in front of the back bench, but I don't know how I will be able to truly be centered on the bench to balance weight since the tiller extension may still be forcing me to move my seat to the right side of boat. That leaves me imagining making my own bizarre Tiller extension that would basically be PVC extending forward to make a large to a "T" that extends further to a SQUARE PVC SHAPE THAT WRAPS AROUND MY BODY in order to make it possible to sit perfectly centered on the bench nearer front of boat, which is actually in the center of the hull. This is the only way I can imagine being able to get centered in boat for balance and able to steer, but I am not sure if the DIY PVC Square shape of a tiller extension will be safe to really try. Please give me your opinions.

I have a 12ft. I run a 5 hp/ with no issue's & have a 6 & 1/2 I have also run w/ & no issues & i skip right along. 8ft-16ft > 8hp - 20hp you're talking as far as manufacturer spec's// 18ft & over 20 & up// I am not a pro but i do know danger and your headed down that road. & no way legally does that plate on your boat call for a 20 hp// not on a 12 ft.! & a 8hp on a 12 ft. would allow your boat at full plane to go as fast as 25 mph. unless you want to water ski which a jon is not made for or see how fast you can crash sell the outboard & buy yourself a 8hp!

 

[bigcity]

So, the advice that you've already gotten is more than spot on and prudent.
But, BUT,I'm that guy that wants to see video of this setup running.
So my request is make sure you have your tether hooked to your life vest, THAT YOU'RE WEARING and then let this thing eat. WITH VIDEO PLEASE. I personally, would like to see it. I mean, you're clearly gonna do what you think is best anyway. Why not share the video
How close are you to Cincinnati? I'll come take video.

 

[LaqueRatt]

Don't worry it'll be on a blooper compilation coming your way soon! Search for Noob sinks his Boat.

 

[canadian omc]

Check the plate on the transom for maximum horsepower rating! Likely 10-15 horsepower maximum for the boat. Going above rated maximum will not only void your insurance it’ll be a liability that can get you in trouble faster than you can imagine. Best bet is going with a 10 horsepower. It’ll handle better and will be a whole lot safer.
Using a tiller extension is usually used for electric trolling motors or smaller outboards. Just think how upset you’ve probably gotten when someone doesn’t do something safe when you’re driving or on the water.
Do you really want to be “that guy “?

Life’s short, don’t rush to the finish!!

Good luck and stay safe