Best Method of Sanding Aluminum?

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Deej91

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2023
Messages
5
Reaction score
2
LOCATION
Claremore, OK
Hello all,

I recently came into possession of a 1960 something Starcraft (14’ aluminum riveted v-hull) and I am going to do a full rebuild. I started out with sanding with a palm sander using 150 grit, but the process seems to be slow going, well slower than it should at least. I have seen a bunch of posts that all seem to point in different directions so to speak. Can anyone tell me if paint eater wheels or a coarser grit would be better? I am trying to find a compromise of a faster process without eating into the aluminum.
 
I use a wire brush. IMG_1708.JPGIMG_1720.JPG inside and out. Nothing fast about it but I do not have to worry about sanding a already thin skin hull. A hole or crack is one sanding disc away. Nothing wrong with sanding plenty do it I just prefer not to. Nothing about working on an old aluminum hull boat is quickly done. Good luck with your project and post some pics.
 
Thanks Sonny 1 for your quick reply. When you say wire brush, are you referring to a wire wheel and drill combo or an actual wire brush?
 
I use a 4 inch grinder and a drill. Both electric, battery types with the amount time wiring brushing are a pain. Harbor Freight is your friend when it comes to both items. Use a good quality respirator. Highly recommend a 3M type. Some of the primers and paint on these boats are bad news. Some use paint strippers but most just make a mess of things.
 
I use a 4 inch grinder and a drill. Both electric, battery types with the amount time wiring brushing are a pain. Harbor Freight is your friend when it comes to both items. Use a good quality respirator. Highly recommend a 3M type. Some of the primers and paint on these boats are bad news. Some use paint strippers but most just make a mess of things.
I have a 3M one rated for lead fumes (I was previously making my own weights, and I traded my supplies for the boat/trailer lol) and I’ve been using it with the palm sander. I’ll get some wheels and post pics after!
 
I used aircraft stripper. Your mask will come in handy there also.
Shade helps give it time to activate and peel the layers of paint. Some paint residue will still require scraping, but most of the paint will come off during the rinse.
Good ventilation, cool temps, keep it off of you and your clothes.
 
I have a 3M one rated for lead fumes (I was previously making my own weights, and I traded my supplies for the boat/trailer lol) and I’ve been using it with the palm sander. I’ll get some wheels and post pics after!
Go to lowes and check out the red filters for your mask. They are designed for dust and mild fumes. Around $20.00 dollars a set but well worth it.
 
You getting rained on? Down here in Henryetta were getting poured on. Yesterday I forgot to turn the boat over and got about 5 inches of water in the boat. Did see that I had no leaks in bottom seams.
 
Roloc looks neat, Im about to get into this soon as well. Will give those a shot.
 
I used airplane stripper to remove a terrible layer upon layer paint job. Then 80 grit, followed by 120, followed by 220 with a electric palm sander. This was on a 1985 Alumacraft 165DLX. I still have plenty of aluminum left on port and starboard side including the transom. I did not sand below the waterline as not painted. The aluminum now looks clean an beautiful. Debating if I will roll and tippet paint on hull or leave bare.

I had to start with airplane stripper as the layers of pant were at least 3 deep. Keep in mind airplane stripper is extremely potent. Wear a 3M respirator and thick rubber chemical gloves. Apply liberally and use plenty of shop rags to wipe off. Do wear a high quality chemical respirator and good luck.

Before and in progress
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0584.png
    IMG_0584.png
    693.1 KB
  • IMG_5032.jpeg
    IMG_5032.jpeg
    135.8 KB
You getting rained on? Down here in Henryetta were getting poured on. Yesterday I forgot to turn the boat over and got about 5 inches of water in the boat. Did see that I had no leaks in bottom seams.
We got absolutely poured on, but I have a 30x40 shop that I’ve been using to store the ol’ girl in so it’s not too bad, just sucks that I have to sand outside, too much dust to sand/strip paint indoors.
 
Hello all,

I recently came into possession of a 1960 something Starcraft (14’ aluminum riveted v-hull) and I am going to do a full rebuild. I started out with sanding with a palm sander using 150 grit, but the process seems to be slow going, well slower than it should at least. I have seen a bunch of posts that all seem to point in different directions so to speak. Can anyone tell me if paint eater wheels or a coarser grit would be better? I am trying to find a compromise of a faster process without eating into the aluminum.
See if someone in your area does soda blast cleaning. I don't recommend doing home air / media blasting because of the respiratory issues and the mess.
 
How long do these last?
It depends on how aggressive you are with them and what grit you are using for the job. If you are using a lighter touch, they will last for a while. If you are really digging hard, they will not last as long. It also depends on how fast you are spinning them. A slower speed will make them last longer.
 
You getting rained on? Down here in Henryetta were getting poured on. Yesterday I forgot to turn the boat over and got about 5 inches of water in the boat. Did see that I had no leaks in bottom seams.
Always good to find out "no leaks" !! I loved your welding job !!
 
My hull is thin and after 20 plus years grinding on Aircraft parts I know better. If the hull material was thicker would have thought about using sandpaper but then again guess where the loose grit gets imbedded. If your in a hurry I guess sandpaper would work but i'm retired so we do not get in a hurry over anything. My goal is to give the expensive paint the best surface possible.
 
My hull is thin and after 20 plus years grinding on Aircraft parts I know better. If the hull material was thicker would have thought about using sandpaper but then again guess where the loose grit gets imbedded. If your in a hurry I guess sandpaper would work but i'm retired so we do not get in a hurry over anything. My goal is to give the expensive paint the best surface possible.
Right, I'm ignorant when it comes to finish prep for paint. I usually spray clear lacquer on wood & finish sand it to 220g before many layers. Polishing small or medium size projects in wood w/2000 g wet paper really makes a mirror finish. It's a lot of work but I feel the same way w/exotic wood finishes. The more time & effort , the better the results.
Not much of a painter and mine could have come out better for sure & for certain.
Thanks sonny1,
 

Latest posts

Top