Best Trolling Motor Plug/Receptacle

[wmk0002]

I have my older 45 lb thrust bow mount Motorguide trolling motor wired straight to a basic lead acid battery in a battery box on the floor behind my small front deck. I plan to upgrade to a 100ah lithium battery asap plus I want to get rid of the battery being in the way plus the wires sitting on top for the deck. I will need to explore the best new location for the battery, but no matter where I end up putting it I want to do a traditional and clean plug and receptacle. I've read stories on this site and elsewhere of the plugs being the week point where the cables, breaker, and everything else is sized right and having issues there with heat when running on high settings for continuous amounts of time - such as spot locked in current. Worth noting I also plan to get a 55 lb thrust Terrova (or similar model) with ipilot in the near future as well and those are listed as a 50A max draw with 60A breaker. I also have 2 other boats I may swap these plugs out on. Any recommendations on a good one to get for my setup(s)? Would be nice if they dont break the bank since I may need up to 3 sets.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I recently did some searching on just this subject when upgrading to LiFePO4 batteries. I'll warn you what many said was the best are not reasonably priced.

Our existing plug is what came from the factory. A standard 2 prong push in type connector, with a "T" handle to pull it back out. With more than two seasons of use there were a couple of times where we were not geting a good connection. Most likely caused by inadvertantly stepping on the wire near the plug end. We figured it out quickly and restored connection. Contacts did not burn or coroad.

The more reasonably priced one found was the Marinco 70A plug. It is a plug-in style, but with much more current capacity. Theoretically, if it partially pulled out, it would still have enough capacity for te motor.

I ended up with one of the most exensive options, one from Battery Tender with 80A capacity. It has a 90 degree plug and a thumbwheel that draws and lock it it with one turn, MK has a very similar style and can be purchased for a little less. I wouldn't want to buy three of them! I splurged by telling myself it is the last one I'll ever buy.

Those 55lb motors according to MK need 4awg for any ext runs of 10' or more, and not many plugs support that large of wire.

 

[wmk0002]

I recently did some searching on just this subject when upgrading to LiFePO4 batteries. I'll warn you what many said was the best are not reasonably priced.

Our existing plug is what came from the factory. A standard 2 prong push in type connector, with a "T" handle to pull it back out. With more than two seasons of use there were a couple of times where we were not geting a good connection. Most likely caused by inadvertantly stepping on the wire near the plug end. We figured it out quickly and restored connection. Contacts did not burn or coroad.

The more reasonably priced one found was the Marinco 70A plug. It is a plug-in style, but with much more current capacity. Theoretically, if it partially pulled out, it would still have enough capacity for te motor.

I ended up with one of the most exensive options, one from Battery Tender with 80A capacity. It has a 90 degree plug and a thumbwheel that draws and lock it it with one turn, MK has a very similar style and can be purchased for a little less. I wouldn't want to buy three of them! I splurged by telling myself it is the last one I'll ever buy.

Those 55lb motors according to MK need 4awg for any ext runs of 10' or more, and not many plugs support that large of wire.

Really appreciate the reply. I saw the similar MK one earlier while browsing through the Terrova 55 lb specs. I did have a little sticker shock. But like you, I hate how most of the traditional plugs all seem really cheap and then use at most 8awg lead wires. I guess for now I could splurge for a good one for my main boat I will be working on first.

My second boat is a small 1440 and more of a creek boat so I won't be demanding too much out of the 46 lb thrust TM it has on it. I could probably get away with a basic plug or better yet may use an Anderson connector or something similar. 3rd boat is in very early full rebuild phase which means its probably a year or two until I even get to the point I'll be messing with that part lol. But it is a more traditional small bass boat so I will want a clean install there for sure.

BTW, if I put the new battery in the sternmost compartment and run the wiring over and up the port side of my 1648, I will be in the 15-20 ft length run one way. I'm actually seeing 2awg as the recommendation for that run. Those thicker cables really go up in price. Where did you buy your TM cables from?

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Really appreciate the reply. I saw the similar MK one earlier while browsing through the Terrova 55 lb specs. I did have a little sticker shock. But like you, I hate how most of the traditional plugs all seem really cheap and then use at most 8awg lead wires. I guess for now I could splurge for a good one for my main boat I will be working on first.

My second boat is a small 1440 and more of a creek boat so I won't be demanding too much out of the 46 lb thrust TM it has on it. I could probably get away with a basic plug or better yet may use an Anderson connector or something similar. 3rd boat is in very early full rebuild phase which means its probably a year or two until I even get to the point I'll be messing with that part lol. But it is a more traditional small bass boat so I will want a clean install there for sure.

BTW, if I put the new battery in the sternmost compartment and run the wiring over and up the port side of my 1648, I will be in the 15-20 ft length run one way. I'm actually seeing 2awg as the recommendation for that run. Those thicker cables really go up in price. Where did you buy your TM cables from?

From Amazon: 6AWG But don't think that brand offers 4 or 2 awg. That some thick wire to work with. I take it your front deck is too low to stuff a battery up there. Thats were mine is in the 1648, and wire is only 5' to the plug. I used this style of plug on that boat: PLUG with 6awg. Never an issue, but takes some wiggling to get apart and not a nice finished look with wire and plug sticking thru a hole in the deck.

 

[wmk0002]

From Amazon: 6AWG But don't think that brand offers 4 or 2 awg. That some thick wire to work with. I take it your front deck is too low to stuff a battery up there. Thats were mine is in the 1648, and wire is only 5' to the plug. I used this style of plug on that boat: PLUG with 6awg. Never an issue, but takes some wiggling to get apart and not a nice finished look with wire and plug sticking thru a hole in the deck.

My front deck is the factory Alumacraft one which is about 4' long and has 3/4" plywood under it. There is a small cubby on the back side and then it has foam under it as well. My 1648 was the one with no center seat from the factory so it has foam under the rear bench and the side pods that go to transom plus under the front deck. I actually can get a 100ah lithium in the bow cubby if I turn it on its side. Eventually I will extend my front deck and 100% put the battery up front. So it may be a waste to stick in in the back and buy expensive cable if that wont be permanent. Its been a while since I investigated what it looks like under the deck. I have to stick a borescope type camera up the crimped channels on the sides to get a good view.

I do plan to get a fabricator to do a 6-8" bow plate on the front across the gunnels and extend it down one side for the TM so I could go ahead and cut an access panel since that will cover it in the future. Seems like from a cost perspective, doing what I can to keep the battery up front the whole time will save money in the long run. Also whenever I do extend the front deck, that cubby will become difficult to reach so it may be a good place to permanently house the TM battery and maybe a smaller aux battery since they wont need accessed once they are installed correctly.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

FWIW: Not sure if it is all LiFePO4 batteries or just the TimeUSB, they indicate the battery must be upright. ie not like an AGM.

The DMI1648 had a very short aluminum front deck which I made longer with plywood. Came back about 12" or so, and that is where the battery sits.

 

[wmk0002]

FWIW: Not sure if it is all LiFePO4 batteries or just the TimeUSB, they indicate the battery must be upright. ie not like an AGM.

The DMI1648 had a very short aluminum front deck which I made longer with plywood. Came back about 12" or so, and that is where the battery sits.

I know a few can be installed most any position. That may be one of the few advantages of some of the more pricey name brands. I did look at the power queens and saw that their standard 12v 100ah battery is limited to upright or on the 2 short sides, however their "mini" version can be on any side, even upside down.

I may do a temporary deck extension similar to yours using some aluminum angle and scrap plywood.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Mine was a fairly simplistic build. Here are a before and after.

 

[moecarama]

I installed the same Battery Tender Plug and 100ah LifePO4 batteries; 4ga wire maybe 6 - 7 ft. in bow storage area. The mounting plate was fabricated from a discarded roadway sign.

 

[wmk0002]

I ordered a lifepo4 battery yesterday. I am going to be able to place it on it's long side and fit it in the cubby under my small front deck so the run one way should be less than 5 ft so it looks like 6 awg will work. I drilled a test hole at the upper left corner of the cubby and using my borescope, I could see I had a couple inch gap between the wood under the wood decking and the factory foam and a clear path to forwardmost left region of the deck where I will install the plug. My current trolling motor is 45 lb thrust and my likely next one will be 55 lb so I'm just going to go ahead and install a 60 amp in the cubby as well. I also think I will have room for an onboard charger in there too. I'm going to get the breaker, receptacle, wire and connections ordered up tonight so hopefully I can get it all installed pretty soon.

 

[wmk0002]

Extra question for you guys. How do yall prefer to attach the lug connectors on the heavy gauge wire? Do yall simply crimp or hammer it down or do you use a solder slug or something similar that makes a better electrical connection? I will use heat shrink on top no matter what. A few of the tinned wire sites offer custom length cables with custom terminations so I may just go with that.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Extra question for you guys. How do yall prefer to attach the lug connectors on the heavy gauge wire? Do yall simply crimp or hammer it down or do you use a solder slug or something similar that makes a better electrical connection? I will use heat shrink on top no matter what. A few of the tinned wire sites offer custom length cables with custom terminations so I may just go with that.

For my recent wiring, used a crimper tool for these size lugs. In the past, filled the lug pocket with solder and melted with propane torch, then inserted stripped wire that had electrical flux on it. Works but takes a little more effort/coordination.

Your batteries are probably 5/16” lugs and the circuit breaker and plug are probably 1/4” lugs. I don’t think you will find fixed lugs with mixed sizes. Get the 1/4” and drill out the ones you need to 5/16”.

 

[LDUBS]

I used the old bench vice and nail trick to crimp the lugs, followed by some solder.

 

[moecarama]

Heat the lug,push the solder 3/4 full, the crimp in a vice or smack with a hammer then heat shrink..walla great connection!

 

[Tin Man]

When I installed my LiFePO batts I went with a Minn Kota TM receptacle/plug. Vey high quality. So far so good!
https://minnkota.johnsonoutdoors.co...tor/mkr-28-trolling-motor-plug-and-receptacle

 

[wmk0002]

I got the battery tender plug, breaker, and lithium battery in this weekend. I'm very impressed with the feel of the battery tender plug. Excited to get it all installed. The battery came at 50% charge so I topped it off using my single bank Noco Genius 10. I was cool to be able to monitor the battery via the bluetooth app, as I could track the charge %, charging amps and watts, and monitor the voltage of the battery as a whole and the 4 individual cells. It weighed in right at 22 lbs.

I think I'm going to put it where it will sit and take some more precise measurements and order some pre-made custom cables with crimped on ends rather than do it myself. The cost isn't that much more since I don't plan to buy bulk 6awg. The only thing I have to still think out is how I am going to secure the battery. Since I plan to lay it on it's side I probably can't find a battery tray that will fit it snugly. I'm going to put it in the rear right corner of the front deck cubby so I am thinking about using 2 pieces of alum angle mounted to the bottom surface of the cubby on the free sides to hold in in place laterally and then using a simple strap over the top. Really only tricky part is there isn't enough vertical clearance to use a standard drill in there for mounting holes.

 

[MrGiggles]

Doesn't get much cheaper than this. Only bad thing is you can't crimp anything in-situ, need to have it on a solid surface.

https://www.amazon.com/AMZCNC-Hamme...4&psc=1&mcid=d5521cc4c66c3f4c9f858db84d4eff5a

 

[Tin Man]

The reason I prefer making my own cables is that the terminals are rarely the same size on both ends of cable needed....ex. battery to breaker are different size ring terminals. Breaker to TM...different. Plus the 6AWG I use needed a step down butt connector to the Terrova cable that was 8/10 AWG. I've been using this one for several years......https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-64044.html.

Below is an example of a crimp from this tool

 

[Still Afloat]

When I installed my LiFePO batts I went with a Minn Kota TM receptacle/plug. Vey high quality. So far so good!
https://minnkota.johnsonoutdoors.co...tor/mkr-28-trolling-motor-plug-and-receptacle

Looks like a nice receptacle but, similar to the Battery Tender model, they require a huge hole in the boat. A 1-3/4” hole for this one. Same type of thing for the Cannon downrigger receptacle.

The other thing that don’t care for is the twist lock. The ability to quickly unplug the trolling motor is safety feature. Not to mention that the pricing is insane.

For the above reasons I will use Anderson Powerpole connectors.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Looks like a nice receptacle but, similar to the Battery Tender model, they require a huge hole in the boat. A 1-3/4” hole for this one. Same type of thing for the Cannon downrigger receptacle.

The other thing that don’t care for is the twist lock. The ability to quickly unplug the trolling motor is safety feature. Not to mention that the pricing is insane.

For the above reasons I will use Anderson Powerpole connectors.

Can’t speak for the MK one, but the Battery Tender is a very easy twist lock. It is much easier than taking apart the connectors you are using. I have those connectors on all my previous trolling motors, but I called them UPS connectors, for it was the first thing I saw them on. You have to twist and pull them apart. On the the Battery Tender, it is just my thumb and forefinger and no effort at all. I should be able to handle it even if arthritis sets in.