Bonding aluminum floor to inside hull?

[DrifterNomads]

I am curious, I have a 16ft v hull with outboard (fresh water), I have stripped it out to refurbished the interior.
I have a theory of using automotive windshield bonding material to secure the floor pan to the hull runners. The bonding materials are water proof, strong and last decades.
Windshield on vehicles go through vibrations and flexing under even the harshest of driving conditions.

Any thoughts on this is appreciated.

 

[flatheadsteve]

I am curious, I have a 16ft v hull with outboard (fresh water), I have stripped it out to refurbished the interior.
I have a theory of using automotive windshield bonding material to secure the floor pan to the hull runners. The bonding materials are water proof, strong and last decades.
Windshield on vehicles go through vibrations and flexing under even the harshest of driving conditions.

Any thoughts on this is appreciated.

Never heard of this being done not even sure if something meant to bond glass to steel will even work on aluminum. Rivets or welding are probably the most common methods. I've seen self tapping screws and riv nuts used for such things as well. I feel like using a bonding agent/glue /jb weld on on a large area would require a ton of prep work and cleanup vs the more common methods.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

There is always the chance that sometime in the future that the floor will have to come out to do a repair or a modification. Not sure what it would take to break the bond on that.

 

[DrifterNomads]

I thought about that as well, my plan is to lay wires in a U shape along each runner, it's a similar method used to remove a wwindshield.hrab both ends with Vice grips and slowly pull thru.

 

[FuzzyGrub]

I thought about that as well, my plan is to lay wires in a U shape along each runner, it's a similar method used to remove a wwindshield.hrab both ends with Vice grips and slowly pull thru.

It’s been a long time, used a piano type wire back in my in my youth. Just didn’t know if it was still applicable for today’s vehicles. Leaving one in place for each rib and accessible seems a bit much. That’s coming from someone who leaves one or two snake wires to pull future electrical runs.

I could see that using it may be quicker and easier, but I would go with rivets or screws. Keep us posted on what you end up doing and how well it works for you.

 

[thill]

I think it would work, but what a nightmare if you or the next owner needed to get under there for any reason.

Doesn't it stick right back together if you don't separate it as you pull?

So, if you have 4 stringers, and you pull #1 cut wire first, as you pull #2, #3 and #4, the others would stick right back down? Or does it harden and lose its stickiness over time?

Also, if it remains soft enough to cut with a pull wire, won't it tend to slide around in hot weather and when body weight and movement applied? So, you would probably want a few screws or rivets to anchor it down.

I would probably just use the screws and rivets and skip the large area of adhesive, but that's just me.

 

[thill]

And what if that long piece of piano wire got a spot of corrosion, caught a sharp corner or broke for any reason as you try to pull the long stringer joints?

You would really be stuck then.

 

[overboard]

It will probably work, but I agree with what others are saying about using rivets and screws, just don't use a ton of them, just enough to secure the floor pan.
How was the floor secured originally, that's how I would try to install it again.