Bought a boat (I know Finaly)

[jrl5678]

Empire 15' Aluminum Boat, Mercury 50hp Outboard

Bought over internet on an auction. From TPWD (it is an old game warden boat.) so I know all the paper work will be correct.

It is about a 2 hour drive form where I pick it up to where it will live. I have been told like by everyone to make sure i grease the bearings before i go on the drive and to make sure I bring extra straps to make sure it stays put.

What should i check or replace before I splash the boat? It has not been sitting for long. It was an active fleet boat before the auction.

Also, I looked up Empire boats not much info on them, does anyone have any information.

It is a large motor for a 15' it is a center consul it does not have a Coast Guard placard in it that i can find.

I plan to use it on the lower San Bernard and Brazos river.

Also hoping the trailer plug is a flat 4 pin and the ball is 1 7/8s.. Right now they are not interested in answering quesitons

 

[Colorado1135]

also make sure the tires are good. I usually bring bearing buddies, grease gun, spare tire (even if there's one on the boat) and portable air tank/compressor. I would guess it's a 2" ball, so bring one of those along too. also a deluxe socket set and/or toolbox just in case. look where a auto parts store or walmart is close by the site you are getting it from. Incase you need to fix the wiring on the trailer, they usually sell a magnetized set for emergencies.

 

[gogittum]

Info is pretty skimpy but I did find this....includes builder's name and phone #: https://www.2coolfishing.com/threads/empire-flat-bottom-boats.124821/ Sounds like he built very good boats.

 

[Kismet]

Sounds great, want pictures, if you please.

Be safe.

 

[jrl5678]

Once I get a hold of it. I will post better pics. These are the ones from the auction.

 

[CedarRiverScooter]

Nice boat!

The stern light on top of motor is definitely gov't issue.

 

[ktoelke54]

Should be a rocket with that motor!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[jrl5678]

I was looking at the motor pic and noticed it has a jack plate. It looks like it is a hydraulic, which is not listed on the auction. Im both excited by and a little afraid of a 50 on a 15.

Im mostly hoping to get it and get it home so I can look over it and get it wet.

It will be hte largest HP boat I have driven, I have sailed larger ones but.

 

[maintenanceguy]

having the console that far forward will work well with that much motor. Having your weight forward will help keep the bow down.

I've picked up several trailers from out of state. My suggestion:

• Pick up early in the morning in case you end up involved in more repairs than you expect.
• Grease bearings. If you find pitting, broken retainer, or anything else - plan on replacing bearings. Your local auto parts shop will have a replacement trailer bearing kit with everything you need. The only hard part is removing and replacing the pressed in bearing race. Check youtube for videos on pressing these races out and in without a hydraulic press. It can be done in a parking lot.
• It's unlikely the trailer has an 1-7.8" ball. 2" is most common followed by 2-5/8. Pick up a 3-way before your trip.

 

[jrl5678]

I will make sure i have a selection of Balls, one of our sporting goods stores sells a sealed "pre made" bearing kit im tempted to buy 2 of those before I make the drive and if they need replacing swap those in / out. I like the Forward Control set up. Better view forward in rivers where there are couches and trees. The bearings and taking lots of straps so it stays on the trailer. These are the 2 big suggestions I had not thought through.

 

[Kismet]

You have to be old to get this reference, but


you just bought a Street Ram. Be vewy vewy careful getting acclimated to its rapid response to both acceleration and deceleration.


Be safe.

 

[jrl5678]

Yes, I am excited about the motor and also know that boat would be very quick with a 25.

 

[jrl5678]

So now that I look at the picture more and do a little interne ting, the trailer is a Cost line, which is a good brand. I read that they only use basically one axle, so only one bearing which it seems Academy sales in a preset kit, greased and pressed together. Anyone know if this is true?

 

[MrGiggles]

So now that I look at the picture more and do a little interne ting, the trailer is a Cost line, which is a good brand. I read that they only use basically one axle, so only one bearing which it seems Academy sales in a preset kit, greased and pressed together. Anyone know if this is true?

What are you getting at is likely a torsion vs leaf sprung axle. Leaf springs are self explanatory, like the rear suspension on a pickup. Torsion axles are all-in-one assemblies, where the spindles are offset from the main axle tube on an arm, which rotates inside it. There is usually a coil spring wrapped around the axle tube that provides the suspension, although some use rubber. The axle tube has mounting pads and is simply bolted to the trailer frame.

There are pros and cons to each, torsion axles ride better and are essentially maintenance free. However if you ever have a problem with them, the whole thing is tossed in the scrap pile and replaced. A leaf setup can be disassembled and the components replaced individually as needed.

It has nothing to do with the hubs, that trailer likely has the same hubs as any other, but like you said, can be purchased as an assembly, pre-lubed and ready to go. It's always smart to keep one of those in the truck, since a bearing failure on the road is a bad deal. If you've already got a hub assembly, it's a 15 minute affair to bolt on and get back on the road.

Always check your hubs for heat when you stop. Typically they'll get loose and knock the cap off before letting go entirely, but they'll be hot long before that. And even if they have bearing buddies, pull the hub off and check the grease in the rear bearing a couple times per year. I've seen some that had grease in them that looked like coffee grounds despite the bearing buddy being full. They don't really flush anything out.

 

[jrl5678]

So hope to pick it up Friday, now waiting on paper work.

Might have set for 6 months or more. Not sure what to do about the gas.
Any suggestions?

 

[MrGiggles]

So hope to pick it up Friday, now waiting on paper work.

Might have set for 6 months or more. Not sure what to do about the gas.
Any suggestions?

I probably wouldn't take the chance. Siphon it out and add it to your pickup's tank in small amounts, as long as just old and not full of water.

 

[jrl5678]

So trails and tribulations.

I got most of the gas out but managed to break the fuel line. Now where do I get replacement fuel line?

The real question is the steering seems frozen.
I got the cable nut loose and the wheel turns and the cable moves in and out. I removed the not at the other end and the motor will turn in its mount. What do I do now?

The jack plate does not move also. I can hear the relay click but the motor does not engage.

Jon

 

[Colorado1135]

take the steering arm off the motor (far right on your pic) and see if you can move just the rod. try moving the motor by hand back and forth too, that will tell you where the resistance is. grease the motor pivot and if it's in the steering ram, then pull it and clean it, relube and replace. there are several youtube videos on how to do it.

 

[Steve H.]

Wicked nice boat. Nice score. Good luck and enjoy!

 

[jrl5678]

Steve thanks, I am over the top just want to get it in the water.

Colorado1135: I have not watched like 1 million videos. I am hopeful that I can put grease in the zerk (sp) and get the rod to move. I did what you said (everyone now tells me.) ( I am so lucky to have all the internet.) So it is the rod in the tilt tube. I probably will replace the steering cable and ream out the tilt tube but I really hope I can just loosen it up 1st.

I got a replacement piece of fuel line and that is good. I think I should replace all the fuel line. I am not sure how ti replace the brass part that is in the gas tank.