Buckethead's 1974 Duracraft 1720

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Buckethead:

I am really impressed with your build. Looks like it turned out really nice. Did you ever get all of the trim/ jack plate stuff resloved, and if so, what did your top speed end up at?
 
Well, as it turns out I sold the 20 and bought a short shaft 50 with a jet. I got the transom built up Friday night but was unable to test it due to heavy rain here over the last 2 days, local rivers are a bit nuts right now. We'll be having corned beef and cabbage on Saturday and sea trials on Sunday, weather looks like it'll be just fine. I'll post pics when I find my old iPhone 3, pics with the 5S are too big to post on here. Thanks for the flowery accolades.
 
bucket head this is a new guy question. my boat has the same 3 seat configuration you started with. my plan is to have a small deck up front and back mostly for storage and to keep my dog off of the battery and gas tank. I want to open the center of the boat up by removing the middle seat. i have buddies like we all do who have not done this nor taken time to research it who say that will cause the boat to flex and pop rivets or worse.

so here is my question if i run a support down the side. or use L or triangle shaped braces similar to some transom braces to build a gun box and rod holder on each side would that stiffen the sides enough to stop twisting or flexing? it is not a deep sided flat bottom boat.

forgive me asking a similar question to an earlier post. mainly wondering if bracing is necessary.
 
I can't speak for every build on every boat but my boat does not flex with the bench removed. I stripped my hull and rebuilt the front deck in and the rear back in the way I wanted them. Along my gunwales I used 1" x 2" aluminum from the front deck to the rear, attached it through the top row of bench seat holes and used stainless steel button head bolts instead of rivets. I would do it this way again and recommend anyone to do the same. There's pictures on my build when I was there.
 

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