Buy this.....or this??

[Kustrud]

Power T&T or Jack Plate?

See pics below, the pic where my cavitation plate is slightly above the water is with it trimmed out to "where it should be." However, it wont bite much here (slightly too high) and vents off and on until I'm cruising along pretty good - wont work for me. The other pic is trimmed in too much and I feel is pushing my bow down, plus you can see from the pic its way too low in the water, however it doesn't vent at all and takes off like a rocket. So, should I buy a power trim unit or a jack plate? I know the offset will help with everything, but would I gain more from a jack plate or power trim unit (PT 35)??

 

[Pappy]

Haven't we covered this before with you? Not sure. Anyway.......
Before you go to the expense of either one, send your prop off and have a little cup added to it. Will probably take care of the issue.
Now, the power trim unit, without prop modification will do exactly what it is doing now. Think about it. All you are doing with "power" trim is trimming the engine. Same as what you are doing now.
The jack plate will offset the engine back behind the boat. This MAY work. Same issue probably, unless you add cup. Once you have a prop that actually hooks up the jack plate will give you more leverage over the bow and may increase performance.
So....the key to this whole issue is getting a propeller to hook up. That is first and foremost. Then, if I were you, I would get the jack plate and see what you can get out of the combination.

 

[Kustrud]

Thanks Pappy, I had a similar thread that went dead so I took some pics running and made a new one. I know what you mean about the trim doing the same thing but I was asking because I would have trim settings in between my current pin holes and most importantly the motor would be set back 5" just like a jack plate would do.

 

[Kustrud]

Ok so Im going with a jackplate!

What ya think between the two options below:

https://www.google.com/search?q=th+marine+mini+jacker&biw=1301&bih=630&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=-PjcVMLkFcWhNpfBgtgO&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&dpr=1.05#q=th+marine+mini+jacker+review

https://www.google.com/#q=cmc+manual+jack+plate

 

[Boat2fast]

Your problem seems obvious. You seem to be able to benefit from a low tilt-pin setting to get planed off...but then you need a higher tilt-pin setting to bring the bow up for faster running. Neither jack plate will help here at all. You still won't have the ability to change tilt-pin position while underway.

Both jacking devices position the engine farther back. You will have to reach back farther to use the tiller. Engine and driver weight are moved back, possibly with a loss of comfort. This is no problem for console steering, not good for a tiller setup.

The power trim setup, that bolts into the engine, gives you the best of both worlds.
You get to take off like a rocket, trimmed down.
Then you trim up a little for good cruise attitude.
Now you trim up more for full throttle, bow-up, high speed running.
If you want to take a corner, you trim down a little and the boat corners nice as possible.

If you select the cupped prop option, and I would, the trim will let you get the most out of it. I don't see any of these advantages with lifting, lowering or setting back of your engine. It is still stuck at one tilt-pin setting while underway.

Another benefit: you don't have to drill holes in your transom. Now other engines will go on your boat...and your engine will go on other boats. This leaves your rigging options open in the future.

I have used similar engines extensively on many different aluminum boats. Power trim makes the most versatile option for any rig. It is the only way to adjust the running attitude of the engine while under way. The trim system that works best is the Panther model 25(550025). It is specifically designed for the J&E 20,25,28,30,35hp engines that have the tilt lock lever on the SIDE of the engine, NOT the front. It bolts inside the transom bracket in place of the lock linkage. It does not relocate the engine.

On a light fast boat, power trim is the only way to have good control at all speeds. It is the only way to reach the higher speeds, that require high trim, without the terrible handling at lower speeds, difficulty planing, and prop venting.

If you would like, I can post the installation instructions for the Panther model 25. It may help with the decision process.

 

[Kustrud]

Thanks 2fast.

My seat will stay in the same place and another 4-5" back wont affect me much as it is almost too close right now, so those two wont be issues.

Secondly, I want something with some set back (5" or so) to get the motor in cleaner water and be able to run it an inch or two higher.

It's hard to know which trim pin setting is the proper one to use right now as I cant try them at different motor heights. So I am thinking the motor trimmed out some may be fine if it is a bit lower in the water, and also the motor trimmed in some may be ok as well if it is a little higher, or set back. This is why I was thinking the jack plate could work. I
'd honestly rather be able to set my boat out of the water for the load I will have in it (which wont change too often) and then put it in and go without having to trim up/down all the time while running.

Thoughts?

 

[Boat2fast]

The boat needs different trim angles at different speeds. You can't change the tilt pin...while your moving. That's why power-trim is such an advantage. The trim angle is infinitely adjustable, with the push of a button, at any speed.

You said it yourself. With the motor trimmed in, it takes off like a rocket. As soon as it gets to speed it feels like its plowing. All you need is to trim it up a little and there you are. Power-trim.

No jack plate will give you that. This isn't just thoughts, its experience.

 

[Kustrud]

Update, I moved my motor about 1.5" to the left if your facing rear of boat. The gigantic spray on the right side is gone and almost doesn't vent at all. Gained about 2 MPH even (hit 28-29 today) and caught a 4 lb. spot on Lanier to top it off. So I think now that it's centered correctly And I've seen the gains that proper trim adds at speed I'm going with the PT 35. It still sprays slightly heavier on the right side so I'm gonna move it another 1/4" to the left, check it, mark the spots, and order the PT 35. Sound good?

 

[Boat2fast]

The PT35 adds powertrim and setback to the boat. The boat is modified.

The Panther model 25 adds powertrim to the motor. The motor is modified.

I think the costs are similar.

 

[turbotodd]

The panther 25 would work.

Based on what the original post said, the trim pin moved "in" one hole will make it hook up. "Out" one hole it ventilates but once hooked, has better top speed. This means your "trim" setting is changing, which means a PT&T would solve it. But a jack plate would make it even better. Why not add a JP AND PT&T? Especially if you have a JohnnyRude that would accept the integral PT&T from Panther? That is a slick setup, wish there was one for Yamaha.

 

[Kustrud]

Cost comes into play then ha! What if I got a static Jack Plate and added the Panther T&T. I want some setback if I can....

This leads to me asking, the CMC PT-35 offers setback with T&T, what would be the advantages of going with the Panther?