Corrosion in alumium v hull

[Jam]

This is my first post as I enter the world of " posting" and boat restoration. I bought a 14 foot 1960 Alumicraft SeaFarer to restore. It has indoor outdoor carpet glued down which I recently pulled out. When I did, I saw that there was an area in the center of the floor between the front and middle bench of the boat that was white and pitted. My guess is there was a battery which spilled in the area at some point. The area is about 2 feet round and there are 5 to 10 pin holes that leak water. Any thought on the best way to repair this type of damage?

I have stripped the paint from the outside of the boat as my original plan was to buff the aluminum to a nice shine and leave it that way as a final look. I am hoping what ever solution there is for the pitting will allow this to continue to be the plan but may be overly optimistic....

Thanks for any guidance you all can offer!

 

[tonynoriega]

I had some pitting on my transom, but did not go through the alum.

I think it was from some pressure treated ply they put in the outside of the transom for motor support. I wire brushed the heck out of it and slathered on some GluvIt on it.

Best practice? Not sure, but its a done deal.

I then used MarineTex epoxy putty on the rivet holes where the ID tags were mounted up by the bow.

And then covered that with gluvit as well... then just finished putting two coast of Rusto enamel paint on top of that.

I would imagine you could use MarineTex on the floor as well, then cover it with an epoxy resin, similar to Gluvit. From what I understand, and I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong... in warmer temperatures Gluvit will "flex" with the boat... not entirely sure about the Marine Tex.

However, if they are pin holes, I think you would be ok.

My 2 cents.

 

[Jam]

Tony,
Thanks for the input! I have heard allot of good things about Gluvit and considered just using that but with the pin holes felt something more would be good. I will look into the compound you mentioned. I was also considering a product called Metal 2 Metal made by Evercoat. My concern is its not made for marine use but sounds like a cool product. Ever heard of it?

 

[tonynoriega]

I have not. I was recommended MarineTex because of specialty marine application.

I would imagine though, anything you cover with GluvIt would be ok.

 

[richg99]

Patching a large weakened area, on the bottom of the boat no less, sounds dangerous to me. It is your life that you are dealing with.

I'd take it to an aluminum welder and get his opinion. Better to spend some money than to drown. Rich

 

[satx78247]

richg99,

ImVho, this leaking/weakened area could probably be SAFELY "patched" (provided that it is in an area to be covered with a wooden SOLE and/or coated with "non-slip coating", so that the "patch" isn't a "cosmetic problem".) with "peanut butter", made of "slow-set" epoxy resin, the appropriate hardener and pulverized/agricultural lime (from a "farm supply store") and the repaired area will be stronger than the rest of the "below waterline area".

To do that "permanent fix", I would coat the area with the "peanut butter", feathering it out to paper-thickness about 4" into the stronger area of the boat's bottom. Then I would lay a piece of waxed paper over that and then lay a piece of plywood (weighted down with a cinder block) over the wax paper. =====> in 12 hours, the "fix" will be fine.

just my opinion, satx

 

[richg99]

Satx. Just my opinion too....I' d be worried about the flexibility- strength after a patch. Epoxy is wonderful, but they add fiberglass sheets for strength. I'd still get a welder's opinion.

 

[satx78247]

richg99,

It certainly wouldn't hurt anything to have a welder look at it.

However, "slow set" epoxy is stronger than steel by weight and will stick to must anything. = Several years ago, I "temporarily" patched a diesel fuel tank (while it was actually leaking) with "peanut butter". - It's never leaked a drop since..

yours, satx